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SurePower Battery Isolator with Generator
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 10:19 am    Post subject: SurePower Battery Isolator with Generator Reply with quote

Hi All!

Now that Spring is upon us (sort of), I was thinking about putting in a second battery with an isolator for my Riviera. Thanks to MajorWoody and his advice, I am going with the SurePower 702 Isolator. It seems to be the best and most reliable over a relay setup, even though that seems to also be quite popular.

The problem I ran into when searching is that everyone seems to be using an alternator and I still have a generator. I wanted to be 100% sure how to set this up prior to purchase, so I contacted SurePower (who is now owned by Cooper Industries) and was told I can use their isolator with a generator, no problem. They also sent me a wiring diagram. I have posted the diagram for anyone who has the same questions as I did so that it can be found with a search.

Arthur

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


P.S. You can also use the 702R, just don't bother with the "R" terminal. Hope some of you find this useful. Smile
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ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I note it says to make sure your regulator runs at 14V at fast idle.
I use a cigarette lighter voltage gauge to monitor charging as I drive, and all my generator VW's run around 14V at fast idle with the headlights off.
So you should check the voltage, but if your generator and regulator are functioning properly, you should be fine without having to modify the regulator.

Also, I assume that's some sort of solid state diode device, so I'd prepare a connector to jumper out the device if it fails on the road. Call me paranoid.
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Fish
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I installed one of those SurePower Isolators probably 15 + years ago with a generator. Works great or should say it did. I haven't had the camper bus running in a few years. What kind of battery are you running for your Aux.? I used a marine deep cycle. I split the circuits so only the bus starter and lights run on the stock battery and everything else (interior lights, radio, blender, etc.) runs on the deep cycle.
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Last edited by Fish on Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just got my sure power isolator, need to install...
This diagram will be usefull thanks!
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happy to help. Smile I was thinking deep cycle as well, as that is what I have read. What's the advantage of a deep cycle? Is it just that it lasts longer? j.pickens, good idea, but why do you think it would fail?
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cdennisg wrote:
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ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke!
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Fish
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, deep cycle will last longer when in use and in years. While camping I've gone 4 days with out a problems and that was when the kids were small so you used more power.
The only bad point is the deep cycle has no cranking amps so you can't use it to jump start your bus or another car if the other ones goes dead.
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ Good to know. That would be a problem because sometimes we go camping where there is no access to other people or services. Still, that shouldn't be a problem as long as I don't do something stupid like leave the lights on or something, right?
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cdennisg wrote:
Lawyers don't deserve buses.

zozo wrote:
Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer.


ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke!
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j.pickens
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

arthurnugen wrote:
Happy to help. Smile I was thinking deep cycle as well, as that is what I have read. What's the advantage of a deep cycle? Is it just that it lasts longer? j.pickens, good idea, but why do you think it would fail?

Like I said, I'm paranoid. I try to have extra stuff on long trips to prevent being disabled on the side of the road. Solid state stuff is great, I use the solid state Bosch Mexican voltage regulators. However, silicon, if overloaded, will just fail. No halfway limping home, dead open circuit.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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Fish
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

j.pickens wrote:
arthurnugen wrote:
Happy to help. Smile I was thinking deep cycle as well, as that is what I have read. What's the advantage of a deep cycle? Is it just that it lasts longer? j.pickens, good idea, but why do you think it would fail?

Like I said, I'm paranoid. I try to have extra stuff on long trips to prevent being disabled on the side of the road. Solid state stuff is great, I use the solid state Bosch Mexican voltage regulators. However, silicon, if overloaded, will just fail. No halfway limping home, dead open circuit.

In really simple terms .... The isolator is really nothing more than really big diodes. They let power go through one way and not back the way it came. If the isolator fails, just disconnect it from the system and you can still drive home ...... after you "bump" start your bus. Shocked
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fish wrote:

In really simple terms .... The isolator is really nothing more than really big diodes. They let power go through one way and not back the way it came. If the isolator fails, just disconnect it from the system and you can still drive home ...... after you "bump" start your bus. Shocked

Right, which is why I said to have connectors so you could bypass it, if it fails.
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BeaterBarndoor wrote:

i wish more people would actually drive their vws rather than just talking about what they have in the garage.

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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harbor Freight makes a cheap and simple high amperage battery disconnect switch that you could use to bridge the two batteries if you wanted to put a jumper on the line.

I would suggest you look into a deep cycle gel battery for the leisure battery. You will kill a regular lead acid battery in that application in no time. Optima makes a yellow battery that will work, and Deka makes a deep cycle gel battery that looks just like a regular battery. We are using the Deka, which barely fits.
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to know, thanks!
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cdennisg wrote:
Lawyers don't deserve buses.

zozo wrote:
Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer.


ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke!
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slow&low
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2009 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice info shown!!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just picked up a battery isolater ( stinger 80amp), the directions call for in line fuse on the positive wires going to each battery. Can you recommend what size wires and fuse to use to connect the batteries? the directions leave this out. My second battery will just be running a 12v fridge and some interior lights.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the heaviest downstream load you intend to connect?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would guess it is the fridge, a Norcold DC0040 which has a max draw of 2.7amps.
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Major Woody
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay. And what are you running for a generator/alternator? Amp output max?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not know the exact output, it is your run of the mill 12v generator.
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arthurnugen
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's probably 70 amps then. I think I used 10 gauge coming off the battery, but it's been awhile so I will have to check. I've been meaning to post pics and add a prgoress update, too.

Also, I used a 50 amp in line breaker coming off the aux battery, as per the instructions. You won't be able to find them at your local FLAPS, so go to a marine store or better yet a battery store.

Since I've put the system in I've been able to run interior lights, radio and my gas heater great with no problems for the starter battery. I was also told by the guy at the battery store that as long as I drive the bus at least once a month it should keep both batteries nice and charged up.

Finally, please don't go cheap and use a regular battery for your aux. battery. A regular battery anywhere in the interior will vent sulphur gas and other noxious fumes. Get an Optima.

Arthur
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cdennisg wrote:
Lawyers don't deserve buses.

zozo wrote:
Don't worry too much. You can always trust a lawyer.


ALWAYS WEAR STEEL-TOE BOOTS IN THE GARAGE!
1965 Bus (Riviera camper)
1972 Bug 'vert
1967 Bug sunroof
1961 Ghia 'vert
1957 DKW 3=6: 3 cylinder 2 stroke!
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are the instructions that came with my kit. nothing about a breaker but it does mention a fuse holder. I guess I am just confused as to why they dont say what size wire and fuse to use.

http://www.stingerelectronics.com/images/pdfs/8SGP32-SGP38.pdf
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Last edited by MrBusCo on Tue Jun 08, 2010 10:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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