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71sprbeet Samba Member

Joined: September 10, 2008 Posts: 51
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Azsilverbug Samba Member

Joined: August 08, 2007 Posts: 112 Location: Tucson, AZ
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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 3:29 pm Post subject: |
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Drill the spot welds out and rivet or bolt the new one in. _________________ You can tune a piano,but you can't Tuna Fish
1962 Bug
1968 Bug
1976 Bug |
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bill may Samba Member

Joined: August 27, 2003 Posts: 9918 Location: san diego,ca
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Posted: Sun Apr 19, 2009 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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is this on a 58-67 beetle or a 71 super beetle? for a 58-67 beetle i use a long rod with masking tape to push it thru' the opening between the front beam tubes and have a helper grab it with a hook made from an old clothes hanger. if you are in the wrong forum you should try 68 and newer.  _________________ 1965 panel bus-Kermit
1958? DD panel-soon.need parts.
www.sv2s.com
OG Member of 1967 Posse.
"SO 42 puts the fun in functional" |
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71sprbeet Samba Member

Joined: September 10, 2008 Posts: 51
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:23 am Post subject: |
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| This is for a 66 bug. The problem is the shift rod guide does not fit through the whole at the top of the tunnel. Also how would i get the old one out and be able to slip the shift rod bushing on slip the shift rod through the guide and put the snap ring into place, all with that little hole? |
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rambler1959 Samba Member

Joined: October 23, 2006 Posts: 237 Location: east of east L.A.
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 9:34 am Post subject: |
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| 71sprbeet wrote: | | This is for a 66 bug. The problem is the shift rod guide does not fit through the whole at the top of the tunnel. Also how would i get the old one out and be able to slip the shift rod bushing on slip the shift rod through the guide and put the snap ring into place, all with that little hole? |
usually you put the snap ring on the bushing before you put it in the hole, then make sure you line the flat side up vertical on the drivers side. next you got to force the rod through the new bushing. it is a tight fit but will go through with some lube. all of this is easily done through that little hole.
i remember reading others ay before that they got the hanger in and out though there as well... maybe odd angles maneuvering it in there? _________________ Samba member # 77515 |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue

Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 18994 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Sigurd  Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2006 Posts: 1557 Location: Rockford, IL
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 11:03 am Post subject: |
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I did the shift rod hangar on my '66 last summer. You have to drill out the six spot welds first. That's the hardest part. To get it out of the tunnel, some cut an access hole in the side, but there's no need to.
Unbolt the connector under the back seat.
There's an access plate in the framehead up front. Remove it and take off the bumper as well.
Push the shift rod forward out of the bushing. Through the shifter hole, tie the hangar to the end of the shift rod with a piece of string. Or tape it. Whichever. I tied it so I can't lose it in the tunnel.
Pull the shift rod out through the front of the car.
Tie the new hangar bracket to the shift rod and fish it back down the tunnel.
Weld.
Does that help? _________________ Steve
1966 (o\ ! /o)
WTB: Red floor mats for my Bug. Like this: http://www.oldbug.com/beck.htm
| The Noof wrote: | | I've had boners last longer than the engine he's trying to build.. |
| 79SuperVert wrote: | | The thing with the teeth fits in between the balls... |
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71sprbeet Samba Member

Joined: September 10, 2008 Posts: 51
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:16 pm Post subject: |
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| How do you know where the spot welds are if they are inside the tunnel? How would you know where to drill? |
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Mongo63 Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2007 Posts: 1364 Location: prison city, IL
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe some pics will help.
Old one coming out.
Old one out.
New one going in, I used a broomstick to maneuver it into position from the front access plate.
New one in before welding. Just weld the holes up.
Done. _________________ Southside Buggistas VW & kit car club
www.southsidebuggistas.com
Mongo only pawn in game of life...
| mharney wrote: | | Behold the true power of the extractor! Mongo has it right! |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue

Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 18994 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 2:50 pm Post subject: |
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Great shots of the drill out pattern... I added this thread to the sticky for future reference. _________________ my seller feedback
rebuilt carb info = for sale
"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait! |
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Focker Samba Member

Joined: February 23, 2009 Posts: 183 Location: PNW
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:08 pm Post subject: Can I hi-Jack? |
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Alright everyone...
What do you make of this...
Appears to have been welded.
Welded here too?
 _________________ I’ve tried nothing and I'm all out of ideas!
'67 Type II ~ Lowering My '64 Type I |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue

Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 18994 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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Yes... they had to weld the parts together at the factory... so what's the problem?  _________________ my seller feedback
rebuilt carb info = for sale
"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait! |
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Focker Samba Member

Joined: February 23, 2009 Posts: 183 Location: PNW
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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| keifernet wrote: | | Yes... they had to weld the parts together at the factory... so what's the problem? |
I'm new to this and at first I thought the rod was bent to crap. The Haynes books says to inspect the rod and make sure it's straight. After looking in the classifieds it seems mine is fine...OR IS IT?
I was in the process of replacing the bushing when I freaked.
Thanx for the fast reply. _________________ I’ve tried nothing and I'm all out of ideas!
'67 Type II ~ Lowering My '64 Type I |
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue

Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 18994 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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Yes the factory had to weld the end for the shifer and the coupler to the pre made rod... that's how all of them look that I have seen cleaned up as well has you have that one...( be sure to smear a thin layer of grease over the entire rod or it will surface rust to hell in time)
Sorry I should have mentioned the the "bend" is normal as well... despite some of the manual's information/description it does have that slight bend in it. What some have to watch out for as well is that there were different lengths in the rods from standard trans to auto stick and sometimes things have been swapped around or the wrong rod picked up/installed. There are some threads/postings on measurements on here... _________________ my seller feedback
rebuilt carb info = for sale
"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait! |
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Mongo63 Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2007 Posts: 1364 Location: prison city, IL
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 5:48 pm Post subject: Re: Can I hi-Jack? |
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| Focker wrote: | Alright everyone...
What do you make of this...
Appears to have been welded.
Welded here too?
 |
That looks to be an aftermarket replacement, not a German original. The bend is strange and the welding looks aftermarket. _________________ Southside Buggistas VW & kit car club
www.southsidebuggistas.com
Mongo only pawn in game of life...
| mharney wrote: | | Behold the true power of the extractor! Mongo has it right! |
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Sigurd  Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2006 Posts: 1557 Location: Rockford, IL
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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Good pics of the spot weld locations. That would have helped me. If you don't hit one exactly right, you have to do in there with a hammer and chisel or long screwdriver. Careful doing that; I bent the tunnel a little. Good thing I don't have a show car.  _________________ Steve
1966 (o\ ! /o)
WTB: Red floor mats for my Bug. Like this: http://www.oldbug.com/beck.htm
| The Noof wrote: | | I've had boners last longer than the engine he's trying to build.. |
| 79SuperVert wrote: | | The thing with the teeth fits in between the balls... |
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Mongo63 Samba Member

Joined: February 15, 2007 Posts: 1364 Location: prison city, IL
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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| Sigurd wrote: | Good pics of the spot weld locations. That would have helped me. If you don't hit one exactly right, you have to do in there with a hammer and chisel or long screwdriver. Careful doing that; I bent the tunnel a little. Good thing I don't have a show car.  |
I used one of those stepped drill bits after I punched the original locations. It's real easy to feel the factory spot weld when it lets loose. _________________ Southside Buggistas VW & kit car club
www.southsidebuggistas.com
Mongo only pawn in game of life...
| mharney wrote: | | Behold the true power of the extractor! Mongo has it right! |
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bill may Samba Member

Joined: August 27, 2003 Posts: 9918 Location: san diego,ca
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Posted: Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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| Focker wrote: | | keifernet wrote: | | Yes... they had to weld the parts together at the factory... so what's the problem? |
I'm new to this and at first I thought the rod was bent to crap. The Haynes books says to inspect the rod and make sure it's straight. After looking in the classifieds it seems mine is fine...OR IS IT?
I was in the process of replacing the bushing when I freaked.
Thanx for the fast reply. |
that is a 64-67 shift rod correct? is fine if so. _________________ 1965 panel bus-Kermit
1958? DD panel-soon.need parts.
www.sv2s.com
OG Member of 1967 Posse.
"SO 42 puts the fun in functional" |
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71sprbeet Samba Member

Joined: September 10, 2008 Posts: 51
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Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 6:08 am Post subject: |
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| Thanks everyone for the help. I really appreciate it. Forgive my stupidity but Can I assemble the shift rod guide and the shiftrod and slide it back through the frame head together? Does the new bushing go on the shift rod or on the guide itself? Also the black ring, where does that go on the bushing? Thanks again |
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Sigurd  Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2006 Posts: 1557 Location: Rockford, IL
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Posted: Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I personally wouldn't assemble anything, but I suppose you could. I would weld the bracket in place first, then place the clip in the ridge in the bushing, then put the bushing into the bracket, then the rod through the bushing. That new bushing will be tight. You will have to force the shift rod into the bushing. Use grease. Lots of grease. _________________ Steve
1966 (o\ ! /o)
WTB: Red floor mats for my Bug. Like this: http://www.oldbug.com/beck.htm
| The Noof wrote: | | I've had boners last longer than the engine he's trying to build.. |
| 79SuperVert wrote: | | The thing with the teeth fits in between the balls... |
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