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Wolfsburg West Okrasa heads/kit
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtroy wrote:
Flavio wrote:
rtroy
If you are refering to the WW (Wolfsgurg West) Okrasa Heads kit, yes, the short head studs are included and needed.
I understand that this is the first part of Braukuche question ? And... he is right about the reason beeing to provide clearence for the Okrasa intakes.

I'v not talk or tryed to help about the measure of the shims under the cylinders.... because I've not yet personal experience about it.
Below you can see:
The studs:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/engine/25-36hp/WW_dual_port_hdwr.cfm
The kit parts:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/engine/25-36hp/WW_dual_port_kit.cfm


Sorry, I over quoted: I had intended to delete the portion about studs and was only speaking, of course, about spacers.


I have not gone through the kit completely, so I have not noticed the studs.
As for the shims, I know the Okrasa kit included them, but yes, I will measure and then figure what I need, make sense.
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rtroy
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Braukuche wrote:


I have not gone through the kit completely, so I have not noticed the studs.
As for the shims, I know the Okrasa kit included them, but yes, I will measure and then figure what I need, make sense.


Sorry, that's a mistake; you use "the" as if there was only one "Okrasa kit." In fact, there were quite a few different offerings. The shims were ONLY included in the "kits" that also included a longer stroke crankshaft.

RT
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Braukuche
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rtroy wrote:
Braukuche wrote:


I have not gone through the kit completely, so I have not noticed the studs.
As for the shims, I know the Okrasa kit included them, but yes, I will measure and then figure what I need, make sense.


Sorry, that's a mistake; you use "the" as if there was only one "Okrasa kit." In fact, there were quite a few different offerings. The shims were ONLY included in the "kits" that also included a longer stroke crankshaft.

RT

I think most people understood the context Richard, but thanks for pointing it out.
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GüteAndTite
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2011 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tommy-turtle wrote:
After what seemed forever they are done. Very Happy

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Shocked

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Shocked


Thank You Ray for putting up with all the complaining, griping, the internet keyboard fighters for all the CRAP that people CLAIM is theirs. You put up the money and the time to get it done and for that I thank you.

Thank you for the manifolds, exhaust, the pulley, rockers and when the supercharger comes out I will be in line for that also. Besides a few other companies out there making stuff for 36hp thank you. Thank you for making the stuff in the USA (even though the cars are from Germany)

(RAY when the web sight comes up with all the stuff, you better be ready to ship it all around the world. Rolling Eyes )


these are gorgeous, when do you plan on selling these?
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Flavio
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2011 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem. I was just trying to clarify what I've said.
In fact, when I've recieved the kit, I was wondering what would be the purpose of those studs....
I've found the reason, later, in the assembling process.

Thanks for sharing the formula.
I've recorded it, because maybe in the near future, I'll try to upgrade the engine with the 69 mm crank and a different cam.
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55reasons
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Question.

Throttle return (back to idle after stepping on the gas)

RHD car.

I added a long spring from the fan shroud to the carb as a temp fix.

Does anyone know a better way to do this, or a spring (part number) to use for this purpose?

*Edit; also, the vw engine shop that prepped it for me says the engine would not turn with the WW supplied "OT" pulley. Crazy as far as I am concerned unless it rubs somewhere, but did anyone have a similar issue?
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oval56
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

55reasons wrote:
*Edit; also, the vw engine shop that prepped it for me says the engine would not turn with the WW supplied "OT" pulley. Crazy as far as I am concerned unless it rubs somewhere, but did anyone have a similar issue?



i had the same experience with this pulley two times... the diameter is to thick on the oil grooves, the result is a damaged case if you run the pulley.
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Flavio
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
If you have the WW Okrasa kit (original version), there is a long spring for the throttle return as you can see in the pic.
Regardind the OT pulley and assuming that your's is similar to mine, I've asked a machinist to remove just "less than a hair" from the part where the grooves are, because it was rubbing a litle in the case hole interior.
Also, because the generator pulley was not an original one, I've to fit a 2 mm spacer in order to have the OT pulley a litle bit out and in perfect line with the generator pulley.

The throttle spring
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


As you can see the fan belt is not vertical as it should be (this pic was before installing the spacer)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If I remember well, I bought the spacer from CB Performance, but others have them also.

Hope this helps
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55reasons
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.
I didn't get the spring with my kit. I will hit up WW to send me one.

Good to know about the OT pulley. I'll get that worked out too.

Thanks for the replies and the photos! Much appreciated!
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rtroy
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oval56 wrote:
55reasons wrote:
*Edit; also, the vw engine shop that prepped it for me says the engine would not turn with the WW supplied "OT" pulley. Crazy as far as I am concerned unless it rubs somewhere, but did anyone have a similar issue?



i had the same experience with this pulley two times... the diameter is to thick on the oil grooves, the result is a damaged case if you run the pulley.


I'll take it on faith that there's an oversize oil return thread on the new OT pulley; this is a BLESSING.

That the oil return threads are oversize - as was offered from the factory - means that they'll work on ALL engines, you just have to fit it to the case properly. (This isn't any kind of problem for a well-equipped workshop - the usual way is to trim down the OD on the return thread.) I'm GLAD they did this, just don't be silly and toss it in there without measuring and making sure the clearance is OK - you might come out looking less than well informed! -smile- It should be as close as can be without touching.

(Note that if you run an engine with wiped out bearings, the oil return threads can machine the case and cause trouble with oil sealing following a rebuild. That's why the factory made pulleys available with an over-size thread. You can usually spot the probem with simple visual inspection. Once you need an oversize pulley, Good Luck finding one in this day and age. Having the new OT pulley provide this feature is A Really Nice Thing.)

Regards,
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leeezard7
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

new to the 36hp world but not new to vw's or porsches. ASE certified porsche mechanic and machinist for over 20yrs. love the little bugs too. i have a machine shop at home for my evening entertainment. current project is a 1952 splitwindow beetle threefold ragtop car. body is done waiting for paint. irs/balljoint/4 whl disc brake/porsche fuchs pan is done waiting for motor and body. already purchased and am buidling a 36hp cased 1759cc. porsche forged 74 counter weighted crank, porsche forged rods, porsche forged 87 pistons and cylinders, porsche regrind 1500s hotcam, forged straight cut cam/crank gears, original okrasa heads im machining to accept 37x33 ss valves, port and polish. my 1.15 ratio rockers for 36hp, dual 48ida's, 009/pertronix, pertronix flamecoil, porsche 12v gen, my ot pulley remake, and my custom ss merged header with porsche carrera style twin megaphone zoomies.

Last edited by leeezard7 on Fri Feb 03, 2012 12:40 pm; edited 2 times in total
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splitpile
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

leeezard7 wrote:
new to the 36hp world but not new to vw's or porsches. ASE certified porsche mechanic and machinist for over 20yrs. love the little bugs too. i have a machine shop at home for my evening entertainment. current project is a 1952 splitwindow beetle threefold ragtop car. body is done waiting for paint. irs/balljoint/4 whl disc brake/porsche fuchs pan is done waiting for motor and body. already purchased and am buidling a 36hp cased 1759cc. porsche forged 74 counter weighted crank, porsche forged rods, porsche forged 87 pistons and cylinders, webcam grind 1500s hotcam, forged straight cut cam/crank gears, original okrasa heads im machining to accept 40x35.3 ss valves, port and polish. my 1.15 ratio rockers for 36hp, dual 48idf's, 009/pertronix, pertronix flamecoil, porsche 12v gen, my ot pulley remake, and my custom ss merged header with porsche carrera style twin megaphone zoomies.

Please post pics of the valve seats and the valves in the head.
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john morris
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:44 pm    Post subject: Wolfsburg West Okrasa heads/kit Reply with quote

I would like to thank everyone that has contributed to this thread, I really appreciate all the hard work, effort and money!

Can we get some gas mileage estimates from those with the kit installed. Please add whether it is in a bug, bus, ghia, and what other mods have been done.

thanks!
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leeezard7
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 24, 2012 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

splitpile wrote:
leeezard7 wrote:
new to the 36hp world but not new to vw's or porsches. ASE certified porsche mechanic and machinist for over 20yrs. love the little bugs too. i have a machine shop at home for my evening entertainment. current project is a 1952 splitwindow beetle threefold ragtop car. body is done waiting for paint. irs/balljoint/4 whl disc brake/porsche fuchs pan is done waiting for motor and body. already purchased and am buidling a 36hp cased 1759cc. porsche forged 74 counter weighted crank, porsche forged rods, porsche forged 87 pistons and cylinders, webcam grind 1500s hotcam, forged straight cut cam/crank gears, original okrasa heads im machining to accept 40x35.3 ss valves, port and polish. my 1.15 ratio rockers for 36hp, dual 48idf's, 009/pertronix, pertronix flamecoil, porsche 12v gen, my ot pulley remake, and my custom ss merged header with porsche carrera style twin megaphone zoomies.

Please post pics of the valve seats and the valves in the head.


after using a mic and some measurements 37x33 or 38x32 is all i can squeeze in. thanks.
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grueni
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 5:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hehe, wishes was the first thought of thinking.
fist messuring and then posting Wink
but also with the 87mm pistons you are on the most extrem way that is still possible to handle in the head with alot of work on heads and head studs. i hope you will not use it as daily driver.

good luck with the build
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leeezard7
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it will be a wkend warrior car. thanks gruni
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55reasons
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

first run. nice and sllloowwwww.

No need to watch past the 25 sec mark.


Link
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NUG637
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys, ive just done over 1000k's on my rebuilt okrasa engine and I'm still learning alot as i go (first ever engine rebuild on my own). The only thing other the the heads and carbiis that isn't stock is the okrasa spec cam i bought off mr okrasa. Its been running great other then a few things as mentioned below....

under acceleration i have to tap the accelerator first before I'm about to take off. if i just try to take off without the initial tap/pump its coff's back up through the carb, or feels as if its about to stall, other then that she hums along great even up over 80mph

and same with reverse, if its flat ground i can reverse ok but with a slight incline i have to keep bringing up the revs and tapping the accelerator as otherwise it keeps wanting to stall....?

I'm thinking it may be a timing issues and I've always just blamed the 009 thats in it, am saving for a glen ring 010 but I'm not entirely sure this might be the cause? my timing is currently set to 10 degrees at idle.

I'm hoping some of the more experienced people on here might tune in and give me a few pointers on what to do....

the reason i bring this up is I'm getting ready to take this engine on its maiden voyage (1500km round trip) to a 3 day show in another state, and as I'm used to how it drives now I'm just wondering if i can get it accelerating and reversing any better.

thanks in advance for any input
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Mr. Okrasa Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2012 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NUG637 wrote:
hey guys, ive just done over 1000k's on my rebuilt okrasa engine and I'm still learning alot as i go (first ever engine rebuild on my own). The only thing other the the heads and carbiis that isn't stock is the okrasa spec cam i bought off mr okrasa. Its been running great other then a few things as mentioned below....

under acceleration i have to tap the accelerator first before I'm about to take off. if i just try to take off without the initial tap/pump its coff's back up through the carb, or feels as if its about to stall, other then that she hums along great even up over 80mph

and same with reverse, if its flat ground i can reverse ok but with a slight incline i have to keep bringing up the revs and tapping the accelerator as otherwise it keeps wanting to stall....?

I'm thinking it may be a timing issues and I've always just blamed the 009 thats in it, am saving for a glen ring 010 but I'm not entirely sure this might be the cause? my timing is currently set to 10 degrees at idle.

I'm hoping some of the more experienced people on here might tune in and give me a few pointers on what to do....

the reason i bring this up is I'm getting ready to take this engine on its maiden voyage (1500km round trip) to a 3 day show in another state, and as I'm used to how it drives now I'm just wondering if i can get it accelerating and reversing any better.

thanks in advance for any input

Have you seen this below? It could be one of your problems:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1306307
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1316478

Cheers! Mr. Okrasa Cool
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NUG637
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you nearly had me convinced my carbies were buggered, then i relised my linkages where abit off... it was pumping fuel on the drivers side way before it would pump on the passenger....

runs like a dream now Wink

rookie error Embarassed
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