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tobiasax Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2004 Posts: 202 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:33 am Post subject: |
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Great dyno info! Any idea why the 69,5 cranked Okrasa engine was so low on torque compared to a similar engine with stock crank? Any other differences?
36hplandspeedracer wrote: |
Ronnie, looks like you did good and the mild cam helped. Here are some HP and Torque comparisons from other 36ers over the years.
Burly
04/10 36hp HORSEPOWER RATINGS
from Burly Burlile
25hp…1131cc(64 x 75) Stock VW to 1953 rated at 25hp
36hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Stock VW stock engine(30hp Euro)24hp to rear wheels / Comp:6.6-1 Torque:60 @ 2400 rpms
56 @ 2000 rpms
41hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Deitz dual carb(28pci) S/P stock engine
Comp:6.6-1
45hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Express dual carb S/P stock engine
Comp:6.6-1
48hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Okrasa dual carb(32pbi) D/P stock cam, D/P Comp:7.5-1 Torque:75.0 @ 2200 rpms
53hp…1192cc(64 x 77) WW dual carb(32---) D/P Web cam, D/P Heads
Comp:_____ Torque:74.5@ 3000rpms
51hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Judson supercharged(28pci) Web cam, S/P Heads Comp:______ Torque:82.9@2500rpms
57hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Judson supercharged(28pci) stock engine
42hp to rear wheelsComp:6.6-1 Torque:64.0 @ 2400 rpms
?hp…1192cc(64 x 77) Bruch turbocharged(H-D Kehin)stock cam, S/P heads Comp:6.6-1
54hp…1192cc(67 x 7 Denzel dual carb(32pb) D/P stock cam, D/P heads Comp:7.4-1 Torque:66.7
64hp…1281cc(67 x 7 Denzel dual carb(32pb) D/P stock cam, D/P heads
Comp:8.2-1 big bore P&C’s, D/P heads
Torque:83.0 @ 2700 rpms
71hp…1281cc(67 x 7 Denzel dual carb(32pb) D/P Super Cam, D/P heads
Comp:8.2-1 big bore P&C’s, D/P heads
51hp…1285cc(69 x77) Okrasa dual carb(32pb) D/P stock cam, D/P heads
40hp to rear wheels/Comp:8.5-1 stroker crank,Torque:68.0 @ 3000 rpms
60hp…1285cc(69 x 77) Okrasa dual carb(32pb) D/P Isky 2j cam, D/P heads
Comp:8.5-1 stroker crank
65hp…1285cc(69 x 77) Okrasa dual carb(32pb) D/P Super Cam, D/P heads
Comp:8.5-1 stroker crank
63hp…1378cc(74 x 77) Bruchrasa dual carb(28pci) S/P,Turbo Cam,S/P heads
Comp:9.5-1 Porsche 356 crank
? hp…1415cc(76 x 77) Bruch single carb(28pci) S/P Erson 410 Cam,S/P heads
Comp:9.11-1,Porsche 356 crank
67.5hp.1433cc( x ) Oval 56 dual carb(Reichert 34pci)
50hp rear wheels(126nm torque)
75hp…1500cc(76.6x79) Okrasa dual carb(Weber 40)S/P,Super Cam, D/P heads
Comp:8.5-1 stroker crank, big bore P&C’s
98hp…1500cc( x ) Denzel dual carb(40) D/P Wild Cam, D/P heads
Comp:9.5-1 stroker crank, big bore P&C’s
80hp…1620cc ( x ) Okrasa dual carb(32) D/P D/P heads
Bengt Holmen stroker crank,big bore P&C’s
63.3hp.1621cc ( x ) Okrasa dual carb( Kadron) D/P D/P heads
rear wheels Julio Iniques Torque 76.32 flyhweel
¼ mile 69.45 mph 18.83 seconds
? ( x ) Pepco ? More info requested!
59.8hp at rear wheels(93nm Torque)
HEAD FLOW(cfm)
Okrasa Head Flow 54.1 cfm
Stock Head Flow 37.2 cfm
Bruchrasa Head Flow 56.2 cfm
Denzel Head Flow _?_ cfm
COMPRESSION RATIOS
Okrasa Head only 7.5-1
Okrasa Crank only 7.5-1
Okrasa combined 8.5-1 Heads with Crank |
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pig-pen Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2012 Posts: 570 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:47 pm Post subject: |
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quick question...
if stock Stock Head Flow is 37.2 cfm, then does the standard 36hp motor flow 74.4 cfm? |
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dubnut62 Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2006 Posts: 20 Location: North West England
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Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 7:10 am Post subject: |
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Hi,
I've been running the kit for a year and half and run up over a 1000 miles. Am very happy with the performance and like everyone else had a few teething problems, mainly with the carbs. I now need to rebuild as I managed to break the stock crank in two pieces! I'm going to go for the WW 69.9mm crank and Isky grind cam and have a few questions. Firstly, what size barrel spacers do you need to take into account the increased stroke and increase in CR, and secondly, with the Isky cam are new stock pushrods and stock oil pump ok. I only ask as I know you have to change to an uprated pump if you are using an Engle or other cam in bigger cc engines. I'm also assuming that the stock valve springs are up to the job and won't break or bind.
Thanks,
George |
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iamdonquixote Samba Member
Joined: January 28, 2003 Posts: 2041 Location: M*ssholia
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Posted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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Is the kit still available? The ww site says out of stock |
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John Moxon Samba Moderator
Joined: March 07, 2004 Posts: 13952 Location: Southampton U.K.
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Robert Chambers Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2005 Posts: 216
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:41 am Post subject: |
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iamdonquixote wrote: |
Is the kit still available? The ww site says out of stock |
Wagens West has a kit add: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1504619 _________________ '63 OG 117 Herbie Replica
'56 Euro Oval Deluxe
'52 Standard Zwitter
'63 OG 117 |
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RareAir Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 14576 Location: 18 miles North of the border
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Posted: Thu Apr 17, 2014 6:25 pm Post subject: |
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The WW dual carb kits are still available. The reason the web site shows "out of stock" is because they have run out of the T-fitting for the fuel lines. A new batch has been ordered from Germany and should be arriving sometime soon. _________________ 1947 Typ 11a
1954 Typ 117
1956 Typ 151
1959 Typ 117
1959 Typ 265
1961 356B
1966 Typ 151
1966 Typ 241 |
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motofly196 Samba Member
Joined: June 01, 2008 Posts: 1467 Location: Eastern WA
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Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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I just ordered a kit from WW. They were out of fuel lines....they are all back in stock. Order UP! |
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Jacks Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2006 Posts: 2347 Location: San Clemente, Ca.
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Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 1:27 am Post subject: |
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It looks like the same kit to me. What's added? _________________ Jack Staggs
Actual name |
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aircooled60 Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2005 Posts: 10 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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Just an FYI. In my 57 Oval, I have over 11k miles on the W.W. Okrasa Kit over about 2 years. Berg deep sump and Speedwell Exhaust. Had some Carb adjustment issues early on, but runs good and strong. It may go to Bonneville in Sept! _________________ 57 Oval, 69.5 mm Stroker, w/ W.W. Okrasa Kit (WW36 Bonneville Record Holder),
57 Oval Ragtop w/ WW Okrasa Kit,
66 Ghia Project
2 '68 Honda CL90 Pit Bikes |
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Roadcow Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2003 Posts: 1012 Location: Stockton, Ca. area
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Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:13 pm Post subject: |
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Please do! It's going to be huge this year. _________________ 71 Westy Roadcow
67 Panel
63 Bug
66 Ghia Bonneville 2014
74 Ghia Vert
69 Bonneville Ghia 150 in Chico
69 Bonneville Ghia in Ireland
80 Cabby 2.1 16v
98 Passat |
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scvw Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2006 Posts: 3544 Location: South Carolina
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Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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aircooled60 wrote: |
Just an FYI. In my 57 Oval, I have over 11k miles on the W.W. Okrasa Kit over about 2 years. Berg deep sump and Speedwell Exhaust. Had some Carb adjustment issues early on, but runs good and strong. It may go to Bonneville in Sept! |
Thats good to hear. Mine should be on the road soon. _________________ 58 Coral Red ragtop(Diana's car)
57 PG/SG standard
63 Ruby Red SC
SOUTHERN INTEGRITY AIRCOOLERS
WTB - Sigla popout glass like in my ad.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1667775 |
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TomF Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2007 Posts: 127 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:32 am Post subject: |
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I've run into a fitting issue with my right hand air filter, has anyone encountered this before?
From measuring it looks like the air filter needs to be 10mm shorter on that side, it starts touching when the lid is about half way up - the decklid lines up with the body nicely and closes nicely, so I can't see adjusting it would work.
My only thought was to cut down the air filter (move the internal bracket to make it shorter then cut down the element), but that's fairly involved. Anyone have any tips?
Cheers! _________________ 1955 Type 113 |
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tobiasax Samba Member
Joined: May 07, 2004 Posts: 202 Location: Sweden
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 11:44 am Post subject: |
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TomF wrote: |
I've run into a fitting issue with my right hand air filter, has anyone encountered this before?
From measuring it looks like the air filter needs to be 10mm shorter on that side, it starts touching when the lid is about half way up - the decklid lines up with the body nicely and closes nicely, so I can't see adjusting it would work.
My only thought was to cut down the air filter (move the internal bracket to make it shorter then cut down the element), but that's fairly involved. Anyone have any tips?
Cheers! |
Does your engine sit at the right hight? No mix up of parts from different years? If I remember correctly the engine will sit too high if you use the transmission bracket (the one between the frame-fork, don't know the correct english term) from a post 1961 type 1. _________________ __________________________________________ |
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TomF Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2007 Posts: 127 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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tobiasax wrote: |
Does your engine sit at the right hight? No mix up of parts from different years? If I remember correctly the engine will sit too high if you use the transmission bracket (the one between the frame-fork, don't know the correct english term) from a post 1961 type 1. |
Thanks for the hints! No it definitely sits correctly, all seals line up etc. Checked the transmission carrier after you said, definitely the correct one for my year (55).
The car had a rear end crash at some point in it's history (in Sweden incidentally), it seems as it's not something obvious that I'm doing wrong that might be the cause. _________________ 1955 Type 113 |
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6T5 square Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2005 Posts: 1083 Location: Dover, DE
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Posted: Sat May 16, 2015 8:36 am Post subject: |
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hey all,
just got done installing the WW kit. I got the kit with CSP linkage and I'm having an issue. Has anyone had to install a return spring on the linkage to get the car to idle? I know there is the return spring on the bell crank and yes, I do have tension at that spring but just not enough to pull the rods back that little bit. I have the rods adjusted all the way in till they bottom out. I'm thinking of cutting a couple of mm of the threaded end so I can pull them in more but I was wondering if anyone else has had the issue.
Thanks _________________ John
65 square 1500S (weezer) sold but always on my mind
60 beetle (Ned)
Quoting John Muir -- Open the rear boot. Get out the stool and sit down. Contemplate the air-cooled beauty before you. - How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive -- Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot |
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aircooled60 Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2005 Posts: 10 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Tue May 19, 2015 11:10 am Post subject: WW Idle Issue |
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Hi John
I had the same problem on mine and added springs, loosened to throttle cable etc. I found (eventually) that the accelerator pump pushrod adjusting nut on one of the carbs either was adjusted way to tight, or the nut vibrated in to the point that it held the carb linkage from closing completely. I adjusted both accelerator pump rods correctly (Put some blue locktite on the threads), removed all the xtra springs and have never had the problem since. Good Luck!
Rob D. _________________ 57 Oval, 69.5 mm Stroker, w/ W.W. Okrasa Kit (WW36 Bonneville Record Holder),
57 Oval Ragtop w/ WW Okrasa Kit,
66 Ghia Project
2 '68 Honda CL90 Pit Bikes |
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6T5 square Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2005 Posts: 1083 Location: Dover, DE
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Posted: Wed May 20, 2015 2:40 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Rob, I'm trying to think of a way to hook a return spring onto the bell crank but I don't want to make it too crappy. I was almost thinking that you could use the original spring that was on the accelerator cable on the early carbs. Cut the sleeve that goes over the spring (this way the bell crank can fully turn with out hitting it) install the sleeve onto the spring/cable and it would look nice and clean. _________________ John
65 square 1500S (weezer) sold but always on my mind
60 beetle (Ned)
Quoting John Muir -- Open the rear boot. Get out the stool and sit down. Contemplate the air-cooled beauty before you. - How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive -- Step-By-Step Procedures for the Compleat Idiot |
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jays58s Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2004 Posts: 2133 Location: Nor-Cal
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Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:08 pm Post subject: Re: Wolfsburg West Okrasa heads/kit |
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I haven't seen a whole lot of updates for a while, just thought I'd add my experience on the kit. I do think it's awesome that WW decided to make this kit, I just wish more thought was put into it as far originality and quality. The cylinder seating surface problem seems to be fixed, but the manifold flanges aren't flat, the throttle shafts need to be bushed right out of the box, the jetting and venturi's aren't correct, and the mounting holes in the carbs are twice the size of the bolts supplied to mount them to the manifolds. I get that people seem to have run these kits right out of the box, but I personally don't know anyone that actually cares enough to put the time in to make sure it all goes together how it should. I was amazed at the amount of work it took me to put together this kit, and I've been working on these cars for over 20 years. I've always done my own work, aside from machine work, and I've never run into this many problems building a 1600 based high performance engine. You're into this kit for well over $2000 after it's all said and done to make it correct, and that doesn't include my personal labor. |
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aircooled60 Samba Member
Joined: August 10, 2005 Posts: 10 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2018 12:48 pm Post subject: Re: Wolfsburg West Okrasa heads/kit |
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Good comments Jay. I have 2- 36's With the Wolfburg Kit and I'm quite often chasing Carb adjustment and one of the manifold flanges is warped and it is double gasketed until I get around to pulling it apart and file the flange down.
Rob D. _________________ 57 Oval, 69.5 mm Stroker, w/ W.W. Okrasa Kit (WW36 Bonneville Record Holder),
57 Oval Ragtop w/ WW Okrasa Kit,
66 Ghia Project
2 '68 Honda CL90 Pit Bikes |
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