TDI powered Vanagon questions

[?Waldo?]

Yes. In fact, I'm pretty sure Simon @ Brickwerks got that plate design from me about a decade ago.

I'll send you the pdf and you can print it out on card stock, trace it to sheet metal, and cut it out. Cut a rectangular hole in the lid under where the plate goes and seal the edges with caulk once it is riveted in place. It's a very easy mod and does not affect the bed.

[zuhandenheit]

Or, if you have a metal lid, you can just hammer a dent into it. It may sound half-assed, but I did mine with some care, and it looks fine.

I think that I only needed to raise part of an indented section flush. It doesn't even come close to affecting the bed. I coated the area around the engine cover with truck bed liner, and I plan to eventually do the same to the engine lid. It should look nice then.

It might be an ordeal to try to do it with something smaller than a sledgehammer.

[ryanoceros]

Does anyone know if the above engine lid mod is necessary with an AAZ injection pump in a Syncro?

I know the engine sits a bit lower in a diesel Syncro, but I have not heard a definite answer on whether the accelerator lever on the AAZ injection pump causes interference in a Syncro.

[?Waldo?]

It is not necessary on a syncro.

[smurfpike]

I have a question and I think I am down to three engine setups for my North American High top Carat automatic 2wd project and need some advice.

One is a diesel and I want to know what the best power option is for this setup. I do not know the diesel lingo and engine type s so please let me know what year and car they are in. I have a shop and I am capable of doing the work myself.

I plan on lifting the vehicle and doing off roading, I live in Utah so I will be traveling mountain passes and going to the desert along with road tripping the highway and back roads.

I want something that is very reliable and maintenance free and I don't have to worry about slowing down over mountain passes. I plan on beefing up the auto trans, possibly taller gear, and adding a peloquin/LSD.

The three setups I am looking at are:

1. turbo or non turbo diesel for great fuel mileage and torque. I want the lid to be stock height if possible-Not sure what kit or setup

2. Suby 2.5 with a possible subygears swap for the transmission-RMW Kit

3. 1.8T-Kit from Stephan's Auto Haus

Please let me know what you think for a diesel setup or any of these setups I am looking at. Thanks
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1965 Ottinger Tribute Overland Bus
IG @otter.the.overland.bus
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1987 Syncro "Big Red", Full restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=606596

1978 Westy Camper, Full ground up restoration, restoration thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593413

[envirogisgirl]

[quote="

Imnsho Karl is one of the best TDi installers in the country. You are very lucky to live near him.[/quote]

I am reading thru this old thread about TDI VS Subaru for conversions in syncros and not to the end of the thread, yet I wonder if "Imnsho Karl" is still tacking this type of work out here in Southern 'Crowdifornia' - (borrowing that!)

Also Would love any updates from volks still in here still driving their vanagons or syncros & what motor, what mpg & how it is doing, or if you have transplanted a new motor or out of the current selections of possibilities what you would consider? Links to info are appreciated! I have a 61 bug w a 2332 & a 2door Jeep Wrangler so just gathering info to begin learning. I have the desert, mountains & Baja all right outside the front door


Thanks so much

[ALIKA T3]

I rock the 1.9 AHU M-tdi.
You can't beat the mileage and simplicity if you wanna go deep into Baja
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[SyncroTrev]

@casey79westfalia

Looks like you dropped off this convo after page 2 or so and the crew is taking over and running this thing in a whole different direction.... haha

To get back to your original question....

I have a 1989 Syncro High top, a westfalia full camper interior with a 1.9 ALH conversion. (15º) The van sits on 31" tires and about 23" of ground clearance. The previous owner did the conversion along with tranny work, lift, breaks and other Misc. Receipts total $44,000+ for the project. This price did not include the van.

My Last van was a 1987 Syncro westfalia pop top wedge style with a gowesty 2" lift. (I mention the lift and top type because they cause different amounts of drag and require more power to push around.) In this van I had a 6 cylinder Subaru SVX conversion.

So that said I have spent a ton of time driving, and working on both. Here are my thoughts.

I love the TDI. I constantly see 30+mpg on my scan gauge while driving. There is nothing like the sound of that thing starting in the morning. Little tractor with the iconic diesel tang, tang, tang... then the turbo starting to whistle....

I have a taller 3rd and 4th and ALH has a Borg S7 turbo with injectors/nozzles and a tune. I pushing over 25lbs of boost. The thing rips. I tow snowmobiles and dirt bikes up in the mountains, fully loaded with 2 kids a wife and all the shit they want me to bring, haha.

The big tires really makes my 4th gear tall. So 80+mph is fairly easy to do. And I am not buzzed up at all. Under 3000rpm. The TDI is also amazing off road crawling around. Tons of low end torque and with the granny gear I can go anywhere.

One thing that I don't love is EGT's. Exhaust gas Temps. If I am pulling a pass, I have all the power in the world, but as I dump fuel into the motor via a heavy foot in 4th. My EGT gauge starts to rise very quickly. These little TDI's were pushing 2000lbs Jettas around no problem. But you drop them in a 5000lbs van with a lift, big mudders, and a bunch of camp gear in them, and they feel the load. Monitoring EGT's is a full time job in my van. You have more power and you can spike the heat for a bit to pass and so fourth, but you can't just floor it. You really have to actively drive. This makes my cruise control pretty obsolete.

I love the TDI for so many reasons, and specifically searched for one and bought it. I don't mind dealing with the EGT;s as I get all the positives.

As for the SVX, that thing was a beast! I could pull passes towing at 70mph+ passing modern cars.... That was always fun. But the thing had too much power. I was burning through clutches and tranny's like tires on a track car. It sucked. I could have driven more easy... but I didn't. I had the power and I used it. I sold the van to an older lady and she drives it so gentle. It hasn't been to the shop since I sold it 4 years ago...

MPG was not good. Fully loaded with lift and roof racks. I was in the mid to low teens. And the motor hung down so low. I had about 7" of ground clearance at the motor even though the van sat much higher.

I have many friends with 4 cylinder subaru motors in their vans. And they have issues like we all do. Some years, nothing. Some years they rebuild. They get poor milage, and power is just not there. They are simple and easy to get parts for.....


Building a conversion westy is going to cost some real coin. 7-10k is not realistic. Even if you do it yourself, it will add up. You will get all this power and then first drive not be able to stop. So then you'll do breaks. You hit a dirt road and tag a rock and then lift it. You'll hate being in 4wd all the time and de-coup it. The list goes on and on. If you do it yourself, think in the 20k+ range. If you pay someone think 40K+. I highly recommend doing it yourself if you can. I have fully rebuilt almost every system on my TDI including the motor. Knowing your conversion inside and out is likely the most valuable thing an owner of one of these can have. Especially if you are going to travel in it. So many rich dudes just buy these and have not the slightest clue. They have them for a few years and then sell them. haha.

If you can, go to some van gatherings. Talk with real people that drive these things and work on them. Get them to take you for a drive. Ask lots of questions. Thats the best way to find what you want.

Hope this answers your actual question, and helps my friend. Good luck in your search. On one more thing. You might look at buying a syncro with a conversion already done.

Cheers.
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1989 Vanagon Syncro
Adventurewagen Hightop
Westy Cab Interior
1.9 TDI ALH
Bend, OR

[Jan Steinman]

I asked my mechanic (2,500 miles away…) about a TDI conversion to replace the AFC in my 1982 Westy. The AFC has a knocking rod, and I thought if we have to drop the engine anyway…

He said it had to start out as a water-cooled.

Anyone here have experience putting a TDI in an air-cooled Westy? Other than mounting a radiator and running hoses, what other complications does this entail?

Ours had non-functional AC, but I did a fairly clean de-install, including the condenser up front. Now, there's a big hole up there, waiting for a radiator!

This one has only the upper grill. I notice stock diesels of that age have the lower grill, as well. Is this a necessary mod?

Thanks for any thoughts…

[dieseltdi]

I did a complete AHU swap into an 82 Aircooled. There is plenty of room for a radiator, fan and ac condenser up front and the holes for the heater pipes are already there. I have limited driving on my rig so far but it pulls like a champ. THe secret to EGTs is two fold: 1) intake air temps, cool intercooler equals cooler IATs., 2) don’t overfuel, Just because you can go to much larger injectors doesn’t mean you should. More fuel equals more power BUT it also means more smoke and more heat! My build is listed as Oh no another TDI swap
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Currently:
1982 Vanagon Westy TDI conversion
2022 ID.4 Pro S
2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI
Way too many previously owned to list!

[?Waldo?]

IMO the most significant 'secret' to keeping EGTs in check is the understanding EGTs increase when the fuel to air ratio increases and that increasing boost actually lowers EGTs (if fuel is kept stable) by reducing the fuel to air ratio (increasing the denominator). Unlike lowering fuel to reduce the fuel to air ratio, increasing boost does not result in a decrease in performance. Of course, max boost should be limited to a safe peak cylinder pressure. The stock Mk3 TDI engines have quite a bit of room for increasing boost pressure before peak cylinder pressures become an issue.

[MarkWard]

Personally, before I cut in the lower second grill, I'd put some miles on the conversion and pay attention to the temps. My feeling is a properly sealed radiator would be more than capable to keep up with a TDI engine.

Perhaps your mechanic was expressing it would be easier to have a donor since there are a lot of bits you won't have. More bits than you think. but yes, you can install a water cooled engine in an air cooled chassis.
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[Jan Steinman]

[charleslabri]

I put a TDI in my aircooled.

I did cut the lower hole to add more airflow, but some folks recommended i dont. YMMV if you dont cut it. I figured Fritz and Hans probably had reasons for the extra flow.

Other thing to note is that the AC DK trans is mounted ~2" further forward, so this may impact your installation, as folks converting from wbx wont have this as a factor.

Another thing to think about is where to mount your intercooler-- i put mine in the front (see my uploads in the gallery) so I didnt have to add active cooling.

Youll also need to make changes to your dash airbox if you want to add the front radiator for cabin heat.

Pretty straight forward, parts are easy to come by.

[?Waldo?]

The '82 diesel had the same engine/trans mounting position as the air cooled (well, trans nose is raised, but the seam between engine/trans is in the same location front/rear). If installing a Mk3 TDI into an air-cooled, just get the '82 mounting hardware and Bob's your uncle. You're even a step ahead of the WBX crowd with the DK trans which is a much better match to the TDI than the WBX trans.

[Jan Steinman]

[MarkWard]

On our 82 diesel I ended up installing a later year radiator. I had all the parts from the later van. Fan, shroud, wiring and lower support brackets. Quite easy to do. At the time the 82 diesel radiator and hoses were NLA and all the local radiator shops have since closed up. It had a copper core unlike the later aluminum ones. Zero difference in operating temp.

You don’t need the later nose if you want the lower grill. A small body saw, some measurements and the grill.
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[AndyBees]

[dieseltdi]

I did remove the top radiator support from a donor van to use in my conversion as well as collected the lower radiator supports. You don’t have to cut off the nose of a later model to get these parts they can be removed. The top support will require a chisel to cut the weld but really not that hard. My 82 also had all the mounting holes for the Diesel engine mounting bars. I did do some trimming of the engine fire wall area but nothing horrible. The swap is “relatively” easy especially if you have someone else do the wiring harness. I stared at mine hanging from a pegboard on my garage wall for days trying to figure it all out before getting David Marshall in Canada make me one. Probably could have done it myself but it wasn’t time I wanted to spend. He also provided a stage 1.5 chipset for my ecu that eliminated the egr and the maf and a speed sensor for the speedo to enable the use of my cruise control. I didn’t cover all of these things in my build but it is here: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728423
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Currently:
1982 Vanagon Westy TDI conversion
2022 ID.4 Pro S
2015 Golf Sportwagen S TDI
Way too many previously owned to list!

[?Waldo?]

I believe the only diesel engine mounting points that are missing from the gasoline engine models are the reinforcement of the rear mounting points of the engine carrier bars. Welding in a couple plates made from 1/8" steel is all that is needed. That's a very minor aspect to the overall engine conversion project. I believe crazyvwvanman has posted pics of what is needed in past threads.