It's new water pump time.. What else should I replace?

vwjoel

So I figured out what that awful rattling was from in the engine compartment on our 1991 2.1. It finally got loud enough that I stuck my head under there and saw water spraying off the water pump pulley and it was wiggling all over. After getting the belt off it is clear that the pump shaft bearings are shot in a big way.

I searched around for a post about water pumps but that seems to be a very common key word in the Vanagon forum. So, to those of you who have done this project, while I'm in there with the coolant all drained out what else should I replace? What usually goes with the pump?

Also, what brand of pump is the best and where is the best place to buy it?

Thanks!

shadetreemech · Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 7:39 am Post subject:

You'll be replacing a couple of o-rings and a gasket that come with the pump.
I usually check Van Cafe, Bus Depot and Autohausaz for price. Bus Depot has some deals on your pump.

While you're in there you might want to check out your thermostat and the housing (plastic, right?), just a thought.

Cool

_________________
'84 GL 1.9
'01 Volvo V70 T5
'88 Westy - "MZDRTHY"

funagon · Posted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 8:45 am Post subject:

I found it much easier to replace the waterpump when I use a long ball-end allen wrench for the three bolts holding the pump to the engine. At least one of those bolts is very hard to reach with a regular allen wrench but the ball-end allows you to access it at an angle.

The only thing that needs to be replaced along with the pump (other than the gaskets already mentioned) is the coolant you lose, or drained, to do this job.

It's also a good time to review your normal maintenance items:

Air filter
fuel filter
oil and oil filter

spark plugs
spark plug wires
distributor cap and rotor

Brake fluid replace-bleed

inspect engine for leaks, damaged wiring, etc.
_________________
1990 GL 7-passenger
2.2 liter WBX

vwjoel · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 1:00 pm Post subject:

Thanks guys, I'll be sure to go at it with a ball end allen and replace the thermostat and inspect the housing.

What is the best coolant to prevent the all too common pits in the cylinder head sealing surfaces?

tclark · Samba Member Joined: November 21, 2005 Posts: 926

vanaguy · Posted: Fri Jul 24, 2009 9:05 pm Post subject:

I replaced all of the rubber hoses while I had the system drained. At the very least you may want to have a close look at all the little ones in the engine bay, some of them get pretty beat up.

ftp2leta · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 5:09 am Post subject:

This is a old DIY section i did many years ago, but i guess it could be of some help (my site is slow this morning?).
http://www.benplace.com/water_pump.htm

The pump doesn't come with the O-ring of the bypass cooling tube (the big black on on the left - letter D)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Tube removed:

Wile there:
Replace the small hose in between the 2 coolant metal tube, from pump to right head:

You need to remove this one anyway to get the left one out of the way so the pump can be remove.

the Allen screw (4) can be hard to remove, make sure they are clean and the Allen socket goes all the way IN.

The crank pulley doesn't need to be remove but be ready to wiggle those coolant tube behind this one.

On those following pictures you can clearly see how metal cooling tube are attach to the pump:

I would also change all 4 oil cooler little hoses.

On this picture:

look at all the blue tube and change every hose attach to those. Take time to order those, i mean it!!! I have been there many many many time and every single time i didn't change one of those hose i did regret it!!!

Also, wile there you should also change the Oil cooler O-ring.

Ben

Ben
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Wolfram · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 12:29 pm Post subject:

I have a nice selection of new thermostat housing related bits I just posted for sale in Classifieds. Good price. New.
Geoff

vwjoel · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 6:05 pm Post subject:

Thanks Ben, that is a good writeup. I got the pump out pretty quick. I made a special allen wrench to get the small pipe off that goes under the pulley. I cut a regular allen so the short side was even shorter so it fit behind the pulley.

It looks like the impeller barely touched the block and scored it a bit. Does anyone know if this is going to be a problem? I've read that it isn't a big deal as the water pump moves more than enough water as new. Any ideas out there?

So the previous owner said that he used a special coolant he bought at the Saab dealership to prevent corosion at the heads. Does anyone know if this is necessary? What coolant do any of you run?

ftp2leta · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:01 pm Post subject:

shadetreemech · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:12 pm Post subject:

ftp2leta · Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 7:39 pm Post subject:


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