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fivelugshortaxle
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
People who favor conventional tuning and engine design simply cannot wrap their head around twin plug engines, their combinations and optimum tuning. When they try, they often fail. Instead of altering the combo they generally just say "it doesn't work" and then slam the technology.

It took us over a decade to come up with the optimum combinations. These are dramatically different than their single plug counterparts. I start at 11.25:1 CR with any twin plug engine.

In 2014 all of my engines will be twin plugged as standard offerings.

I
love my 993 twin plug, vario-ram, daily driver!


I'm going to want a 2176 type 1 build with twin plugs from you by 2014. A true daily driver .....pushing at least 190 hp. Think you can deliver? Without absolutely killing my bank account?
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2013 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fivelugshortaxle wrote:
Jake Raby wrote:
People who favor conventional tuning and engine design simply cannot wrap their head around twin plug engines, their combinations and optimum tuning. When they try, they often fail. Instead of altering the combo they generally just say "it doesn't work" and then slam the technology.

It took us over a decade to come up with the optimum combinations. These are dramatically different than their single plug counterparts. I start at 11.25:1 CR with any twin plug engine.

In 2014 all of my engines will be twin plugged as standard offerings.

I
love my 993 twin plug, vario-ram, daily driver!


I'm going to want a 2176 type 1 build with twin plugs from you by 2014. A true daily driver .....pushing at least 190 hp. Think you can deliver? Without absolutely killing my bank account?


I haven't based my engines from the T1 foundation for several years now. All we build are Type 4 based engines.

I only have one Type 1 engine on my property.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gears wrote:
No need to "clear out fins" .. just carefully machine through them.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Required tooling:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


For those of us who aren't machinists could we buy these tools reasonably somewhere and try this at home, maybe doing a few test runs on some old heads? Or do you think a local machinist would be fine and willing to do it? Or is it so precise that only someone experienced in cutting dual ignition plugs should attempt it?
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gears
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All it takes is a Bridgeport & Balls ..
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gears wrote:
All it takes is a Bridgeport & Balls ..


Bridgeport as in a milling machine? So I guess this isn't the kind of job to try on my drill press.
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Jimmy111
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

gears wrote:
All it takes is a Bridgeport & Balls ..


Takes more than that. You need a jig to hold it in place very ridgidly or the fins just snap off.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 6:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jimmy111 wrote:
gears wrote:
All it takes is a Bridgeport & Balls ..


Takes more than that. You need a jig to hold it in place very ridgidly or the fins just snap off.


Would a homemade wood jig work along with a drill press?
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Jake Raby
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Approach angle is everything. You have to consider pushrod tube clearance, exhaust primary location (else you'll melt plug wires) and how strong the chamber is where you'll break through the casting.
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
Approach angle is everything. You have to consider pushrod tube clearance, exhaust primary location (else you'll melt plug wires) and how strong the chamber is where you'll break through the casting.


Good points. It also seems to me that each combustion chamber would have a different aproach angle due to differnt positions of the push rod tubes. Right?
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gears
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jig must be absolutely rigid. From a performance standpoint, you want both plugs pointed toward exhaust .. so angle selection on one of the plugs is critical.
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bj
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gears,

Does the napz dist fire the plugs at the same time or is the a few degrees between them?

And yes, Bob from Pele Bug still has the original distributor Smile... Even though he has since closed shop.

BJ
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gears
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bj wrote:
Gears,

Does the napz dist fire the plugs at the same time or is the a few degrees between them?


Not sure what a "napz" distributor is, but after experimenting with advancing the bottom plug 2-4 degrees with my distributor, I settled on simultaneous spark.
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bj
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gears,

The distributor is from the twin plugged Nissan motor (z24).

Thanks.

BJ
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ALB
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doesn't that distributor spin the other way? What happens to the advance when it spins backwards?
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gears
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh .. of course. The distributor we're borrowing the cap & rotor from. I remember there being two styles .. I just chose one style and stayed with it. We had to wait a couple years for Nissan to begin using Zytel plastic, so the rotor wouldn't disintegrate at 6,000 engine rpm.

I'm pretty sure the Nissan also used simultaneous spark .. (but I never worked on one)
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58 Plastic Tub
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul-

Is this work you are doing for other people, or just for your own cars? I'd be interested in seeing your distributor set-up, etc. I'm assuming you are adapting the Nissan cap/rotor to a better-known distributor, if you aren't using crank-fire.

Twin plugging just makes sense, especially as the bore increases. I think something >10:1 is completely possible with this setup (Jake said as much earlier in the thread.
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did a fair number of heads and distributors for mainland guys during the mid-90s when I had a Bridgeport & lathe on Maui. While I still have all my tooling, I haven't had a mill or lathe in over a decade.

Early distributors were merely an adapter plate shrunk fit onto any centrifugal advance distributor. I later had castings made, which after machining resembled "billet".

I seriously doubt that any of my customers went as far as Jake with his high compression combos, but I don't know .. they were all so far away. Gary Peloquin had pretty good results.
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58 Plastic Tub
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With that in mind, is anybody currently doing this correctly (with the bottom plugs aimed at the exhaust, and so everything clears the P/R tubes)?

... and probably equally important, is anybody building dual plug distributors or adapters?
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58 Plastic Tub
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With that in mind, is anybody currently doing this correctly (with the bottom plugs aimed at the exhaust, and so everything clears the P/R tubes)?

... and probably equally important, is anybody building dual plug distributors or adapters?
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gears
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the ideal placement possible only when using 10mm lower plugs. We usually changed the upper plugs to 12mm at the same time.
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