How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics

[CrashedAgain]

Why not copper? Cheap, available, doesn't rust or corrode, fireproof, fittings of all sizes readily available, much easier to work with than either steel or stainless......unless there is a material compatibility problem as with gasoline.

Much better choice than the plastic lines they send with oil pressure guages these days.

[Hotrodvw]

The reason for my question is due to the cons involved also. IMO, they out weigh the pros.
- soft tubing, more suceptable to vibration and stree cracks
- easily damaged and kinked
- not rated for all fuels
- fitting selection is more critical than with steel for a leak free fit, more easily damaged
- there' a reason OEM's won't use it, at least not with in the last 30yrs or so.

It is cheap, which isn't always good. It's easier to work with than steel, but IMO, if you're not going to use the proper material, you have no business messing with it. I'll never be convinced that copper is a viable solution for a fluid application on my VW.
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'67 Sunroof
Eric

78x94 with IDA's....oober fun

Horsepower is an addiction........Addictions cost
lots of money!

Hose & Fittings

[KTPhil]

[EA812]

This is what we used on our 65.

This is something someone wrote up in the past. Who ever you are thank you!

First off, you don't need to cut any holes in your pan. If the body is still on the car you will need to remove the following items to use the existing access holes. Remove the front bumper and the front access cover in the frame head; remove the pedal assembly, shifter and inspection cover under the rear seat. Last of all you will need to remove the large bolt at the rear of the vehicle that secures the trans bracket on the tube that the fuel line comes out of. This will allow you a hole to look in when running the new line.
Second, The fuel line is not welded inside the tunnel, it is held in place by 2 tabs that are bent around the tube. One is located just rear if the pedal access hole and the other is accessible through the rear inspection hole and is where the rear frame tube is attached to the pan. (There is also a clip that holds the line to the clutch cable tube under the e-brake handle. You can see it if you take the boot off. That is were we broke the string pulling the new one in.) You can reach the rear one with a screwdriver to bend it open slightly. The front one is a little harder. I took a 4 ft long piece of 1/4 inch square steel tube, from Home Depot, and hammered the end flat. I reached through the front access hole and bent the strap open with it. Be patient.
Third. I broke off the existing fuel pipe where it exits the frame in the front and rear and used a screwdriver to push the tube into the frame. Then, I worked the old tube out of the frame through the pedal access hole using a pair of channel locks and pried against the opening to leverage the tube out the hole.

Now you have the old fuel line out. If you put a trouble light in the rear access hole facing forward you can look into the frame from the front access hole and you will see where to route the new fuel line.
Buy a 25ft roll of 1/4-inch steel fuel line at the auto parts store. Roll it out on the floor and tape the end to keep dirt out of it. Feed it into the frame through the front opening and don't worry about getting it in the clip until the end. Once it reaches the rear inspection hole you will have to bend it slightly to guide it down the rear tube. Turn your light in the rear inspection hole to face down the rear tube and you can look in the tube through the trans mount bolt hole. Once the tube is at the opening in the frame, use a long thin Phillips screw driver or any long round object that you can fit into the fuel line. Reach into the tube with the 1/4 inch square steel piece you got at home depot, and gently lift the fuel line up towards the opening and stick the Phillips screw driver in through the frame opening into the end of the fuel line. This will act as a guide for the line to follow up and out the hole. Now go back to the front of the vehicle
and push the line in and it will come out the rear hole very nicely. Push about 1 foot of extra out the rear frame hole to allow you to have extra for working the front into the hole. Do not cut the extra off yet.
Go to the front of the vehicle and cut the tube with a tube cutter, Make sure you can get your Phillips screw driver in the end of it so you can guide it out the frame hole like you did the rear.

Go to the rear and pull the line until the end of the tube up front is aligned with the hole in the frame and gently lift the line using the 1/4 inch steel tube and insert the Phillips screw driver in the frame opening and into the fuel line. Go to the rear and push the fuel line back into the frame and it should pop out the front hole.

Now you can adjust the tube inside the frame so it's in the straps you bent open. Use the 1/4-inch steel tube to pry the front clip back closed around the fuel line.

With your tube cutter cut the front and rear tube so you have about 4 inches sticking out. You can adjust this length later for the perfect fit.

Place the new rubber fuel line grommets over the fuel line an into the frame holes.

Reinstall your inspection cover, trans mount bolt, front access hole and front bumper and you have a new fuel line installed just like new without cutting up you car. It took me 3 hours by myself with me car body still on my 66 very. If the pan is off the car it's even easier.

It's not a bad job, just be patient and take your time. The only thing that did go wrong about the fuel line was I tied a string to the old one to pull the new one in. It snapped half why. My wife and I got real creative with strings and wires. The old line was held in by a tab in the back that clamps it to the E- brake tube. I was able to access it through the inspection cover where the shift rod attaches to the transmission. With a mirror and a screwdriver I pried it open. It was easier to close on the new line later. The next one is a clip that attaches it to the clutch cable tube under the e- brake handle. I sprayed it with WD 40 while pulling it through it. That's where the new fuel line didn't fit. It’s slightly bigger since its standard instead of metric. I used some tie wraps, the real fat ones. The last attachment point was just behind where the
pedal cluster goes into the tunnel. I was able to pry that one open with a screwdriver but it could be done from the front inspection plate by the front axle with a long bar. That's how I got it to close onto the new line. I didn't realize it at the time but I worked on it from 10:00 AM till 5:00PM but a lot of that time was spent on looking through the holes with mirrors and flashlights to see where everything was. It did help that the body and floor pans are off but It could be done with them in place.

If I had the chance to do it all over again I would try to attach the old line to the new line ( I got it from Summit Racing). Maybe use a wood screw that you cut off the head to thread it into both lines. Grind the beginning of the new line so it is a little cone shaped and grease it up. I would be willing to bet it would go through. I was able to pull the old line through that clip even the s bend part that is at the end of the chassis. I sprayed it with WD 40 to help it slip. The only thing I don't know is if there is a way to pull it through with the engine in place. I also disconnected the shifter rod so I could jam my hand in the rear inspection cover.

see also http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=354821&highlight= for some great photos

Brent <"OOOO={
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Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[VW Vent]

[Hugo Stiglitz]

[EA812]

[Bruce]

[MODIFIER]

A "fishtape" reel used for running wire in conduit is another way to get the fuel line easily through the tunnel.
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Happyasshell
USC USMC DAD OORAH!
ASE MASTER TECH BODY/PAINT and MECHANICAL

62 Beetle
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[EA812]

I like everybody has good idea for this process. When we did this it didn't go exactly to plan so I got real creative and made some tools like the fish tape and other things to make it all work.
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Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[tdrisk2]

Has anyone used a larger line for more fuel to the carbs? I am going to try to use 5/16 line for dual 48's.

[glutamodo]

1/4 should be fine for whatever carbs you have back there.

[EA812]

BTW glutamodo, I got the 1/4" Summit racing stainless steel fuel Line because of one of your posts a wile back about this subject. tks for the link too I never even thought of Summit.
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Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[forkzilla]

I got 1/4 copperized steel line from NAPA today, part #641-4001. The old line I took out was painted black and was in good shape except for the very front and the very rear. I have pan under the front frame head off so this was very easy to replace.

[GearHeadKeith]

Great thread: good explanation & pictures. Very straightforward for a standard Beetle owner.

Have any of you done a fuel line replacement on a Super Beetle? My '71 has a leaking fuel line inside the tunnel. The Super is the same as a Standard from the front-of-dash rearward, but I do not see an access panel at the front of the Super Beetle pan. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Keith Gilbert - DdK
1971 Super Beetle sedan, Shantung yellow with black interior. Cosmetically unrestored with over 366k miles.
1776cc: 9.2:1 compression, dual Weber 40DCN on Deano intakes, Primo Petrucci 40mm/36mm round-port heads, Crower VW284F cam, Kymco 1.5" exhaust
SSC trans with 3.78/2.25/1.48/1.04 & 4.12 Gleason R&P, Type IV output flanges, Berg Shifter
Topline front struts/springs/sway bar, Sway-a-Way rear bar, 4-wheel disc brakes
Owned since 1994: 3rd owner since new!

[shawnrudd]

my holes on my 59 were welded closed..... i was thinking of drilling mine out but dont know the size..... thanx

[dirtpittt]

On a new (used) chassis I got the fuel line was plugged. I tried all kinds of solvents and wires poking away at it with no success. Then took a 1/8" cable and attached it to my drill and "roto rootered" it. Instant success. I took the air hose and went to blow it out and now my rafters in the garage are spotted black. Anyway, just thought I'd mention this as a possible alternative to replacing a plugged line. Of course the car is still under reconstruction so don't know if this totally worked or not, but pretty sure it will. It better!

[shawnrudd]

Actually, The fuel line was cut and the holes were welded closed... I am trying to restore my 59 and after reading this forum that instead of running the line under the carpet next to the brake line Id put it back in the middle hull but i need to drill out the left horn and the front but dont know the actual size to drill.

[EA812]

Get a couple of these http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C16%2D111%2D189A and measure them, chances are your gonna need then anyhow.
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Project 66 Daily Driver http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538786&highlight=
Herbie build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=336044

[Ghianightmare]

I've been giving a lot of thought to fuel line replacement. Here are some of them.

1. The current fuel line on my ghia is 52 years old. It would be near the end of its useful life. I have not driven the car in 3 years so, it has been happily exposed to the ambiant Irish air - albeit in a warehouse - and all of the mositure that is in it. I have rebuilf my dellortos, i have a new 1776 engine on order. There is no way i am going to use the existing pipe.

2. although the original pipe runs inside the tunnel, it is not vapour sealed from the interior. any compromise in the pipe would lead to a leak of fuel or fuel vapour into the interior. Bottom line, the original installation is good but not great.

3. one option is to replace the rigid fuel line as other have done. This can be involved and difficult.

4 a second option is to run a fuel pipe inside the car, similar to the brake pipe. Although this could be classed as a health and safety hazzard, it is not much worse than the original installation except that it is physically exposed to being damaged by people in the car. However, it it was installed tight up against the tunnel, it would be difficult to damage.

5. Run a flexible stainless braided hose down the tunnel using the original pipe entry and exit holes. Cable tie it to the other pies where there is access. Leave the original pipe inplace as no reason to remove it. Yes, it could possible move or chaffe, but as i do very little milage, it would be another 52 years before it would be a problem. add a little routine inspection and Bob's yer uncle.

I'm going with option 5

If anyone has any thoughts, please advise...