How To: Metal fuel line replacement w/pics

[Hotrodvw]

My thoughts on option 5: Don't. Tubing lasts longer then hose, and is ultimately safer IMO.
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Hose & Fittings

[LoneWolf8]

I have a 56' Bug that recently need the fuel line changed. For those of you who have tried this, we all know how difficult it can be. However, this is 2011, and technology has now saved those of us that hate things that are difficult. Dorman now makes a nylon fuel line that fits inside the old, leaky steel tube. That's right!!! No more frustrating hours of replacing that old line. Just insert the end of the nylon tubing into the old steel tubing and push. Dorman makes a nice tool to put the unions on the ends of the new line, and just use the regular fuel hose from there to the tank and carburator. Walla!

[EverettB]

Wouldn't that give you smaller fuel line diameter, resulting in less flow?
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[LoneWolf8]

It does, however, I used a 5/32 inch OD tubing with .016W, so the flow decrease to my 36hp is very minimal. I believe you wouldn't have any problems even with dual carbs. I should mention that it would be a good idea to locate the original hole and cover it. I used a small length of fuel hose, split it, and wrapped it around the hole, held in place with a couple of wire ties. If your hole was caused by rubbing against something, this will stop it from cutting through it again and into the nylon.

[Aynthm]

I found a quick way to get the new line through that pesky frame horn in the rear. I was able to get the new line right near the rear exit but that last few inches was a bear. I finally ran some nylon weed eater line through the fuel line and when it came out the front I tied a good strong knot in it. Went to the rear and used that line to pull on and it guided the fuel line right out the exit. Just a tip if you're having trouble getting it out.

[Derek Cobb]

[Oshea3333]

what about running the fuel line up along the under edge of the fiberglass, by the wiring tunnel? will the upward angle create a problem for the fuel pump? this seems safer than inside the tub or on the underside of the buggy?

[Prepmech]

Getting ready to replace the fuel lines on my '73 Super.

The previous owner ran it above the floor on the passenger side, and brought it over to the drivers side above the transmission. My heat exchangers are not hooked up and currently dumping the heat right on the fuel line, causing it to vapor lock.

As far as the heat exchangers, I am going to replace them and hook them up.

Having trouble finding access to inside the tunnel at the front of the car.

First thought was to cut some 3" access holes in the tunnel and flare them with a dimple die. This should give the holes more strength than the original solid sheet metal.

The more I think about it, I may just run some 1/4" fuel rated hydraulic hose above the floor pan at the front, and bring it into the tunnel somewhere near the rear seat. From there I would probably switch to 1/4" steel line and bring it out the back in the stock location.

[fsckedagain]

ok, so I have a 73 standard and the fuel line in the front comes out the side. I am trying to figure out how to either test it, to know it's ok, or replace it.

We have taken the pedal assembly out, no clip. Shifter, no clip. And we cannot see one back by the rear inspection plate, but I know there is something holding it in. Any insight would be nice. The PO ran the hard line outside the car around the pan and over the IRS parts and pieces. It is *not* a good thing lol.

Thanks!

[ajbuchok]

I'm in the middle of pulling my old line out and I'm having some trouble. I got the front and rear clips undone and most of the line pulled thru the tunnel. My trouble is with the middle clamp that looks like it's wrapped around the clutch cable tube. When pulling my old line out, it got hung up on this clamp. I've tried to open the clamp with a screwdrive thru the e-brake hole, but I'm not having much success.

Anyone have some magic technique for getting this line loose?

Thanks,

Aaron

[GüteAndTite]

[Aynthm]

STOP...
Before you cut up holes in the tunnel and other unnecessary butchering, listen up.

If you want to replace the fuel line with SS do it this way. There are 2 holes, one under the tank (entrance) and one on the left top of the rear horn (exit).

Get 10' of line (amazon.com), cut the old line just flush with the entrance and exits. Force the old line into the tunnel and to the side a little. Leave it there. Uncurl the new line and feed it into the front access hole in the tunnel and feed it back to the rear inspection plate. From there work the exit end up to the horn and push it out the hole if you can, if it won't go like mine, run weed wacker line through the horn into the line and feed it all the way to the front until it exits. Pull 2 feet of it out and tie a good strong knot in it and go back to the rear and pull on the weed wacker line until the fuel line exits the horn fuel line exit hole or until you can get some needle nosed pliars on it and pull it out 4 or 5 inches. Now go back to the front and push enough fuel line in, make your cut giving yourself some extra line and reverse the weed wacker method to get that line out the front. Now you can get a couple of zip ties anywhere on the line inside the tunnel and secure it as much as possible to something, if you can't then run some split brake bleeder hose around the fuel line and slide it down. This is to keep the line from rattling against the tunnel and making noise. The angle at entrance and exit and the strength of the SS line will keep it solidly secure, it's not coming out or sliding around.

I have photos on the link below somewhere. It came out fine and was very quick once I employed the weed wacker line.

Good luck and stop talking about cutting up 3" holes. Forget about it.

[Snydr]

So, I'll be sure to add this to my list... since the previous owner on my '63 had zip tied a rubber fuel line - run front to back - on the outside/underside of the floor pans. Yeah, that was safe...
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[Motomazzo]

[Braukuche]

[BUGTHUG]

Instead of using NYLON zip ties, cause they will break sooner than later, use the SS zip ties that they use for putting heat wrap on exhaust. This should last LONG TIME "sailor".
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[broomhandle]

I thought I would bring up this sweet thread again....

So... Any insight with doing this with the body on?

And I have a 69...

Line is like all rust... Time for new...

[EA812]

[broomhandle]

Yeah I was just wondering if anybody has and they can ad there 2cents

[youngnstudly]

Okay, this is just how I did this procedure on my car...I'm sure there are a few other ways (or on this site, 9,000,000) to get the same end result. Sorry for writing an essay here with no pics, my computer won't recognize my digital cam. This is the 1 hour method, not the 10 or 20 minute method (FYI). And sorry, but I don't know how to text message, so text format wasn't used. I didn't take 6th grade 3 times so that I could grow up and type in texting format (KIDDING )!

You can do this with the car running and driving, the engine does not need to come out, nor does the factory fuel line. Remove the rear seat bottom and rear inspection cover, the front bumper, both front inspection covers, and the right front wheel. Jack stands need to be used and you will have to remove the right front wheel to gain access for hooking up the new line to the tank. Get your roll of stainless steel, steel, or aluminum line and simply uncoil it so it is nearly straight, tape the open end shut, and feed it through the tunnel from the front, along the passenger side. You can place a (flash or drop) light over the rear inspection cover opening for better visibility while pushing the new line through (can you can see the light at the end of the tunnel? ). You'll want to aim the taped (leading) end towards the drivers side for exiting the rear, while passing the new line below all the other existing lines inside the tunnel. I sneaked the new line through and exited where one of the other lines (drivers side e-brake perhaps?) passes through, but uses no grommets from the factory. There is hardly a gap there so the new line actually sits snug in that spot with no rough edges exposed, and no need for a seal or grommet.

Once you're through the tunnel and out the rear (why does that sound so dirty? ) you can use a tubing bender at the front of the tunnel to bend the excess tubing to 90 degrees, then cut it down so only 2-1/2 or 3" remains. From there drill a hole in the passenger side of the tunnel underneath the gas tank for the line to pass through (so the tunnel fuel line inlet will line up nicely with the gas tank outlet). You will need to use a rubber grommet at this point, so drill the hole correctly for the grommet that you decide to use. Install the grommet later so it's not blocking your view into the tunnel.

Here is where you need to get creative. A tool needs to be made that is rigid enough for applying side force, while also allowing you to lock onto the bent 90 degree portion of the fuel line so you can twist (clock) it correctly while looking through the inspection hole. I made a tool from simple 1/4" round stock the first time I did this, but the last time I did this I used 5 separate 3/8" ratchet extensions taped together with a T-handle on the ratchet end (so I could easily turn the extensions) and a misc deep 3/8" drive socket to the other end (it was a spare 9/16" socket if I recall correctly). I ground a slot into the open end of the socket 180 degrees apart so the socket would grab the 90 degree 3" long portion of the new fuel line.

Simply twist, rock, wiggle, push, gently force, and/or persuade the T-handle and extensions until the end of the fuel line lines up with the hole for the grommet. Check alignment using a flashlight in your right hand (through front access cover hole) while looking through the hole you drilled for the end of the new fuel line. Once in sight, install the grommet using a little soap (or ?) to lube it's ID so the new line can pass through easily. You can feed a small section of round stock through the grommet and into the open end of the new line to keep things aligned, then simple apply side force using the extensions and socket to push the line through the grommet. Apply a small piece of fuel line over the metal line to prevent it from popping back into the tunnel, and hose clamp it into place so it doesn't move while you slip the actual fuel line over it. Cut the rear of the fuel line to the length you desire, and that's it. Don't forget to spray the new line clean (I used brake clean and compressed air).

Note: I decided to drill a 2-1/4" hole on the opposite side of the pedal assembly on my car for getting more light to the front of the tunnel, but also for checking the clutch tube welds, as well as adding a center support to my new fuel line. The support was a piece of aluminum angle cut to 1" in length that I drilled for the proper size tubing sleeve. The sleeve was epoxied into the angle, the assembly was slide onto my fuel line before taping the leading end closed, and I pop riveted the angle to the inside of the tunnel by clamping the angle to the tunnel with Visegrips (through the 2-1/4" hole). I still need to re-enforce the front clutch tube mount so I haven't welded the hole back up yet.

Like I said, this is just one way of doing it, and I'm sure everyone and their brother will argue my method, but you asked for 2 more cents. I put in 75 cents.

Andy
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