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Locky's Build up
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 10:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One small detail that may help the idle situation that is often overlooked, make sure the down rods on the linkage are exactly at the same angle. Same angle F to R and Side to Side. If they are off only slightly, it can cause a varity of tuning issues you will chase forever.

Another adjustment is the aluminum cross bar. When it gets warm, it can expand more than the distance between the carbs, then bind the linkage. When it is overnight cold, make sure there is plenty side to side play in the cross bar to allow for the heat expansion.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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locky
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Joe. Yes the vertical bars are aligned properly. I know there is play in side to side action of the cross bar, but will double check when hot and cold. My problems arise when the engine is warm, due to expansion. There are hundreds of posts out there with the same high idle problem after running for awhile. I have it down to about 9-1000 RPM when warm. Which isn't too bad. I would like it to be around 600-700 consistently. The weather is cooler now so the engine isn't getting as hot. What is your recommendation for idle RPM when warmed up?
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
What is your recommendation for idle RPM when warmed up?


That is just to personal to state on the internet. Laughing

It depends on the cam, head porting design, carb jetting, gears in the tranny, terain I am going on, feel of the throttle, quickness of the engine to rev, sound of the pipes, distributer that is on the engine and others.

The idle of a performance engine is up to the owner. What ever you like is what I like.

My 2165 dual 40 FK7 cam, large valve engine in my reduction gear box bus idles at 950 to 1000. It has a lot of gear, quick up on the throttle rev's and a lot of torque down low.

My original engine '73 Thing idles at 850 to 900.

My fiberglass buggy idles at 650 to 700.

My 1915 drag rail with a FK 98 cam idled at 3800 and did not like it that low.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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locky
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha Joe.
I recommend staying away from Uncle Jack Very Happy
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locky
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2012 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took her for a drive and checked the end play of the cross bar. Pretty tight if not no end play at all. Joe what's the procedure for increasing side to side play?
Loosen 12 mm lock nut, then turn black nut which direction. Even turns on both sides?
Just curious have you any experience with the CSP linkage. This CB linkage is starting to piss me off Twisted Evil
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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adjust the end pivit points, if they are adjustable. If they cannot be adjusted, trim the actual cross shaft itself.

I have never bought a new linkage set up, they have always come to me used. If you buy a new unit, make sure the cross bar is steel, not aluminum.

Just a few items for thought.
If the engine is getting hot enough to make the aluminum cross bar warm enough to expand to the point of binding, that is a lot of heat up high. Where is all this heat coming from? What is the compression ratio of the engine, are all the tins in place for proper cooling, where is the timing set, anything restricting the air inlets for cooling purposes, how tight are the valves? Many factors stacked can make a engine get hot enough to heat soak a cross bar to the point of expanding. Not that some of these can be changed, but for a future build, it can shape parts choices.

Last thought, random, but any time stock items are modified, the domino's can tumble and effect other areas, then they too have to be modified to make the package work again.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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locky
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine was built by a pro who definitely knows whats up. 2017 stroker. Compression Ratio is 8.5:1. All tin in place, no obstructions. Timing is 10&30, valves .002. carbs have been synched with a syncometer. One thing that bugs me is that the engine seal doesn't fit properly in one spot. I pull it down and wrap the lip around the bottom of the tin but it doesn't stay down. It's a New seal. Winter project will be to get some oil temp gauges installed. I was going to go with the one that you can screw into the top of the remote oil filter.
I did have to disassemble the linkage and manifolds to get it in the bay. I adjusted the cross bar last night it was tight so I'm hoping........ Beauty weather here, 26 degrees at the end of September, yes. Going for a good cruise to Kokanee park today.
Thanks for your time Joe.
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locky
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody here ordered raised Spindles from Doug Fuller lately? I have AC industries disc brakes and wondering if they will bolt right on. I'm going to go with 3 inch lift. Tired of the stiff ride with the beam adjusters. Also picking up my raised spring plates from Atomwerks today.
Will post after installation.
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locky
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have received and installed my Atomwerks 3"raised plates. They allow 3" of lift with the stock suspension characteristics. I am really happy with them. My suspension actually works now, no longer a stiff wagon ride. I found when re-indexing the torsions that it was difficult to raise the plate back up above the stop due to the amount of tension. With these plates you install the bushings, set your angle for your plate and screw down the plate cover. Once that is done, you slide the torsion bar in from the outside, line it up and hammer it home. I had to take the fender off for the torsion bar to go in. Then you go about raising the plate into position as you would on any other adjustment, without the large amount of preload. Nice-n-easy. I had to assemble it and set it down a couple times to see how far I was off of the stop. They recommend having about a dimes worth of height between the bottom of the spring plate and the stop, then drive it around for 5 miles or so to let it settle in. I think I could probably go with a reset and lift it a little more, but I am waiting for my lifted spindles from Doug Fuller from the Volksrod shop in Utah. I want to see where the front end sits before adjusting the rear again.I highly recommend the plates, Construction is superb, and installation easy. Charles from Atomwerk was great to work with.
Thanks to Ziggy for the info
Pics to come!
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63ziggy
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Locky

Great to hear how well things went and how well you like the plates. Can't wait to install mine. you beat me to it. Still waiting for my replacement raised spindles from BCR. Once those are received, I will move forward and install my raised plates as well as raised spindles. between the both of us, we can share new options to raising a Thing and maybe help promote a new product along the way.

I saw Charles with Atomwerks got a large write up in recent Hot VW's.

share those pics when you have them.
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