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Locky's Build up
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locky
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was messing around today trial fitting my hand brake cable. I tried inserting the threaded end of the cable in the steel tube coming out of the rear. I noticed the tube is curved, making it impossible to push the cable through. Is it ok to bend that tube in more of a straight line so that I can get the cable in. If I force it now, it will definitely get stuck. It was really tight when I pulled the original out.
Thanks
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locky
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2009 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries. I got it worked out. Inserted a screwdriver in the hole and gave it a tweak. Cable slides in no probs.
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locky
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next up was to start the beam assembly. I had new ball joints pressed in by a friend and I installed the Sway-Away Leafs on my own. I used the method where I slid them in one by one. It took me a few tries but I finally got them all lined up and the torsion bars on. I had one hell of a time getting the spindles and the torsions to all line up. I tried with a couple of ratchet straps numerous times. By the time I got close there was so much tension in the strap that I was afraid to get close, as it might snap and take my hand off. I messed around with these things forever. Finally I went and got a long piece of ready rod with an eye loop threaded onto the end. I also took a piece of thick flat bar with a hole drilled into it and placed it on top of the shock tower. Ready rod through the shock tower and eye loop hooked onto the lower shock mount. Then I took a nut and threaded it down all the way until it met the flat bar. I kept turning, and put a little lube on the nut until the lower torsion was in place for the spindle. I used a ratchet strap for the top torsion and that seemed to work. I did notice that screwing around initially with the ratchet strap that I buggered up the threads on one of the ball joints. So I had to rethread that. Man, was I happy to get those things on there.
The rear took some figuring out as well. I used the same method with the ready rod, only using a biner to hook onto the springplate. That worked great. I reindexed 2 splines on the outside, so there was a lot of tension that I was working with. I cleaned out the inside of the torsion housing with a pressure washer, and cleaned up the torsion bars and regreased them. They were in good shape and still had the red plastic coating on them. I also installed new chrome springplate covers, and new red urethane bushings. The bushings were a little finicky. One side didn't seem to want to sit in the torsion housing and was kind of popping out when I cranked up the springplate. I realized that I pounded one of the torsion bars too far in which caused the other side to not move in as much as it should. So I loosened up the springplate that I had tightened and using a punch, drove the other torsion bar in until I could get the springplate and bushing seated properly.
Sorry for my long explanations. Does this even make sense?
Anyway all good.
Also mounted on some AC industry discs, front and back. Went real smooth, and those guys had great customer service. They look good.
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locky
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are a few shots of the brakes installed

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Van-go108
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the bolt pattern you went with? Looks awesome.
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locky
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went with a 5x4.5, to give me a wide range of choice for wheels. Fun181 helped me out with that. I ended up getting some steel Cragars online at Jegs.com for super cheap, and they look great. I will post a few pics later today.
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locky
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I am having a bit of trouble installing the e-brake cable. The top bolt for the caliper mounting bracket is in the way. If I remove the bolt I can get it in no probs, but then I have trouble lining the bolt up properly. Anyone else have this problem? Uberauto?
Thanks
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uberautowerks
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm.... I can't say I've ever experienced that problem with the rear caliper/cable.
Some pics might help.
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locky
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can see in these photos, the fat flange and the caliper mounting bolt are hitting. Do I have it setup wrong?




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locky
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 07, 2009 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to get the cable in. I had to take out the fat washer that you can see under the bolt head in the photo. There are no directions included with the AC disc set up, so I am not sure what the washer configuration is. There is one fat and one skinny washer per bolt. I installed the skinny washer on the inside between the inner caliper and the mounting bracket. I don't think the fat one would fit in that position. I called them today, but Rudy is not in until monday. Maybe someone else has come across this. I will post what I find out.
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locky
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haven't posted for awhile. Chassis is pretty much done. pics soon.
I had a decision to make on the motor. Rebuild, new kit or turnkey. Since I had a ton of other work to do I figured the best route for me was to go turnkey. Luckily I stumbled upon an Issue of Hot VW's last fall that had Anibal Chico showing off his Torque Master 1776 build. I researched alot of builders out there and found Chico to have a ton of positive feedback, and very little negative feedback. As well as hosting a Builder showdown for some of the top builders in the country. I called Chico this winter to get some ideas for my car. I felt good about Chico and left it at that until I was ready to order. I called him back in March and told him that I wanted an engine that was reliable and that would be able to go from 1700 feet to 8000 feet on logging roads loaded up with 4 guys and mountain bikes. He said that a stroker motor would serve my purposes so we decided on a 2017cc with dual Weber 44's.
Well 2 1/2 months later the engine is ready and being shipped this week. Here is a video on Youtube of it on the dyno. It puts out 118 HP and 121 ft torque, and gets 24-26 MPG. This thing sounds awesome. I can't wait to drive it. Rest of the car will be ready with 4 wheel discs, beefed up suspension and Class 11 Remote Res Bilsteins. I will post more pics of the build in the next couple weeks as I will be hitting it hard. Lots of body work now.


Link
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Van-go108
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PostPosted: Fri May 21, 2010 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YEAH. (in a slow voice) Wink
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sam_w
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Neat,

I have just found out that evilgeniusracing is having a Bugorama special on the Saturday before Bugorama in Sacramento, they will do three dyno pulls for $50, or so I think. Here is the link.. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=414108
I am impressed with my stroker, 2054. It is a 74 by 94 with a pair of 34 ICT's and a 100 cam. I have standard heads and wanted good low end torque.
Driving around I find it impressive compared to my tired stock Thing AM motor, got 22 MPG on the 1300 mile trip to Indio and Barstow, driving at 70 MPH on I-5.
So I am going there early on Saturday to find out how much power at the wheels.
Do you have the plots of HP and torque vs RPM. I want to compare, so I find out if my decision was correct.
BTW I put the red foam covers over my air cleaners and soaked them in the special oil. Seams to run fine with that.
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locky
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PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2010 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Sam. I haven't received the printout yet, but I will post it when I do. I will also post the build sheet as well. Let me know your numbers when you get them. Good Luck!
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locky
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Body is almost ready to go back on. Wondering about how I should go about it. Should I install the engine first an then drop the body on? Also not sure about the dual carbs. Do I have to remove them to get the body on? Any help would be appreciated.
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63ziggy
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 18, 2010 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would say definitely easier to mount the engine with body off. you can then adjust clutch and wire starter etc.

I mounted my motor after body mounted. I did have to pull the dual carbs due to clearance in the engine bay. some clearance issue was created by body lift and dual carbs.

definitely will depend on the spread of the carb intakes.
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locky
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 19, 2010 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ziggy. I will mount engine first and then lower the body onto the chassis using my buddies loader and rope tied around the body.
I was looking at the tranny today and messing around with the throwout bearing and noticed that the clutch operating shaft was installed backwards by a local shop that rebuilt it over a year ago. Oops! I'd take it back, only the tranny is already installed with CV's attached. Guess I'll have to figure it out on my own. Anything to watch out for. Looked at the Bentley, and it looks fairly straight forward. It does note that gaskets and seals fit cannot be duplicated once they are taken apart. Will mine be ok in this instance?? Updates to come. And a crap load of pics, when I find the time.
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locky
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 20, 2010 11:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Turns out, you can't install the shaft backwards. Duh!!
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locky
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a printout of my Dyno sheet

Chico Performance Dyno sheet


RPM HORSEPOWER TORQUE
2500 53 110
3000 66 116
3500 81 121
4000 92 121
4500 104 121
5000 114 120
5500 118 113
6000 108 95
6500 0 0
7000 0 0
7500 0 0
8000 0 0
8500 0 0

Motor Specs: Heath 2017cc Date: 11/05/2010
Bore: 90.5 Carburators: Weber 44 IDF
Stroke: 78.4 Fuel: 91
Compression 8.5to1 Main Jets: Reamed 140
Cam: Tm-10 Air Jets: Reamed 200
Timing: 30 E-Tubes: F-7 Idles 55
Air Temp: 78 Exhaust: Tri-mil 1 1/2 Thing euro
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locky
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2010 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here is the build sheet

2017 TM20 Turnkey Package


1. C.W 78.4 mm Crankshaft forged CBPerformance 8 dowel
2. New Case AS41 Open to 90.5 mm taped for full flow.
3. New 5.4 I-beam connecting rods New bushing
4. TM20 Camshaft with Norris racing Lifters.
5. Aluminum stock cam gear
6. German forged reground flywheel 8 dowel.
7. Gene Berg Chromoly racing Gland nut (torque to 550lbs)
8. 8mm chromoly head studs (made for Chico performance only)
9. 90.5 mm Mahale pistons/cylinders with Grant rings.
10. New 043 with 40 x 35.5 stainless steel valve with chromoly retainers and single high rev springs.
12. Scat rockershaft with 1.1to1 VW rockerarms
13. Stainless steel windage push rod tubes.
14. Bolt on aluminum valve covers or stock German (vented if needed)
15. Perfect fit powder coated sheet metal with air
16. 26mm H.D oil pump modified for full flow with oil filter base and oil filter
17. New Dual 44mm Weber kit.
18. New Alternator,or Generator (your choice)
19. Bosch 009 dist with compu-fire ign.
20. Kennedy Stage 1 Pressure plate with Dankin disk.
21. New 1 1/2 heater boxes with flanges with Tri-mil Euro muffler for Thing.
22. Dynamically Balancing Crank,Rods,Pistons,Flywheel,Pressure plate,Front pulley,
23. Full dyno day with break in and tuning and dyno sheet 120+HP with 130+TQ
24. 8.5 to 1 compression unless you need more.
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