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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually i didnt know that! What are some other tools that would be good for me to get to help me make good, accurate bends and for building roll cages and what not?
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

really, nothing. You can get away with just the angle finder and your measuring tape. The trick comes in getting to know the details about what happens when your bended bends something.
The first thing you'll find is that the tube does not start bending at the start of the die and you'll need to figure out where this point is inorder to get your bend to start in the right spot. You'll make a mark where you want the bend to start on the tube and then move out from there and make another mark that will line up with the end of the die. On your first bend remember to score a lone in the tube at the end of the die after it's clamped in. Then after the bend measure from that mark to where the bend actually started and write that down on the bender for future reference.
With mine I have to start the bend about 2" early and even then it's still kind of a moving line depending on where the seam is and how easy it starts bending. This where you just have to have some extra tubing on hand and be prepared to waste some in order to fine tune your 'thinking' and procedure when you go about bending something. I thought I could just be real careful and not waste any tube but I realized it was inevitable and a good thing in the long run. As long as your paying attention.

Another thing you'll have to figure out is how much the tube stretches out. You could mark the distance of two bends from each other and by the time you complete the bends there farther apart and not at all where you need them.

Some of it is just luck, at least for me.lol
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its finally set up!

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I think the stand is a little too flimsy for the whole set up. It was bending a bit with out me even trying to bend some steel. But we'll see.
I assembled the thing by pictures rather then following the instructions and doing it right. So im going to get some dinner, read through the instructions, read through the "How to Use it" instructions and hopefully bend the top tube of my rear bumper tonight. I only have a 7 ft stick of 1.5" .120 wall and im pretty sure that is long enough to start with. However, im not sure i want to use .120 wall for this part of the bumper. I was thinking .095 for the top and .120 for the vertical part thats going to go under the car.

What do you guys/gals think about those wall thickness ideas?
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought $60 worth of tubing today. Took the first 10ft stick and tried to make the top horizontal hoop of my rear bumper. Put a bend in the wrong place on the last bend, otherwise it would of gone perfectly. So, i copied my measurments onto the other 10ft stick i had and bent that one. It came out pretty close to perfect. Good enough for my car at least. I tack welded it on and went to work trying to build the next part. But it got late and im pooped from a long day. Im going to jump back into it tomorrow and hopefully get the lower horizontal hoop made and at least one of the vertical supports.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you hear a lot of "good enough for the girls I go with" in my shop lol
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ haha, nice.

Got some more done today, a lot more then yesterday. I think it took me so long yesterday to make the top hoop of my bumper because it was my first time using the bender and it was sort of a complicated bend, at least for a first timer.

Todays bends were just two 90*, i also had a clear head unlike yesterday. I printed out a notched pattern, cut it and tacked it on. Then i started on the bumper/motor mounts. This is where it got a little redundant, in the long rung at least.
Ya see, i didnt do my exhaust like i should of. Its hanging about 3" lower then i could of actually made it, but when i was starting to build the exhaust, i opted to use the stock header instead of buying the shorty headers that are low profile. Bc of that, at the bottom of the lowest exhaust pipe i have 9.5" of ground clearance. Add a 1.5" tube, a .5" gap between the tube and exhaust pipe and a .25" skid plate and im down to 7.25" of ground clearance.
Thats not enough!

So in the near future, i plan on getting rid of the longer header for some shorties instead. But i didnt want to make the motor/bumper mount tubes again to adjust for the new, higher ground clearance that would be allowed bc of the shortie headers. So, here's my plan:
Im putting the motor/bumper mount tubes were they should be for when i have the shortie header (the oil pan is also going to get shortened). The vertical tubes that come off the bumper will come straight down from the lower hoop (that i made today) at a 90* for about 4" or so, then turn 45*, then another 45* after that to be running parallel with the ground and can meet up with the motor/bumper mount tubes. BUT, there is going to be some janky-ness. Bc the mount tubes are about 1.5" higher then the bumper tubes, the bumper tubes will some how connect to the BOTTOM of the mount tubes, not butting up to the end of them. This will make a low hanging spot that has the potential to catch on stuff and screw up my rear bumper, so i'll have to be careful.
Now, i know what your thinking. Why not just do it right the first time around and redo the exhaust before doing the bumper? Well, bc im desperate. Thats why.
But there is a little thought out-ness to this. If you recall, the vertical bumper tubes coming off the lower hoop drop down about 4" and a 90* angle. When i get my exhaust shortened (and oil pan), i can cut out 1.5" of those tubes at that 90* section, and where they mount to the motor/bumper mount tubes and essentially move the whole vertical tube up 1.5".

This might seem like it will take longer and if counted by hours worked on the car, it will. But if you add to the "do it right the first time" equation that i will be waiting a week for the headers to come in (assuming they have them on the shelf and dont have to make them), spending more money right now and spending more time shortening the oil pan (where as i could get another one from pick n pull and be driving while im shortening that one), it will be quicker for me to do it the way i decided to do it. Plus, im desperate. lol

So maybe im crazy, maybe i have inhaled too much aluminum oxide, or maybe im just tired of spending all this time working on it and not outside skating/surfing/enjoying the spring time. Its going to get done, and i enjoy working on it.
Im going to show my pics now and go to bed.

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The motor/bumper mount tube i was talking about.
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Good night!
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MOTHER OF GOD!
I didnt realize i wrote that much, sorry.
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Bad_chopper
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 25, 2014 6:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where is the radiator going?
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 27, 2014 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Radiator is going above the engine.

Dam i feel acomplished today. Looking back and puttin it in words it dosnt seem like much but i got the bumper finished and made a radiator mount. That was about 10 hours today in the garage.
Im really satisfied with the way the rad. mount came out. I used a conduit bender to put a few small bends in the square tubing. The rad. mounts to the metal frame using stock locations, so if i ever need a new radiator it will be as simple as unbolt the old one, bolt in the new one.

A far as the bumper goes, its not totally done. There are a few cross bars and braces im going to add to it, but i cant do that until i redo my exhaust and do all the stuff i was rambling on about the night before.

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I really like this pic
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Thats it for tonight. Its midnight here in Cali, so im going to bed. Gonna get up early tomorrow and figure out how i can bolt this rad. mount to the rear bumper. Do some radiator lines, fill the system, bleed it, start and run the car for longer then 3 seconds and go from there.
I have to make a throttle cable, install the drivers seat and i think its ready for a test drive.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its up and running and driving! I took it for a lil spin around the neighborhood and man does it sound good when it accelerates! Not totally like a subaru, but pretty close. My radiator is leaking so i cant really cruse it too far. I ordered a new one and it'll be here today.
I just have to install it, do the wiring for the rear lights, wire up the headlights again, put the hood on and the lic. plate and i can legally drive it.

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Bad_chopper
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know you put alot of time into your exhaust, but looking at it with the muffler on, would it be to hard to turn the muffler vertical instead of horizontle? it looks like if you were able to do that you could make the exhaust tubing align with the bumper so its not hanging out so far.

other question is, if you have a temp gun would you take a temp reading of your muffler after it has been running hard? i am still considering putting the radiator between the engine and exhaust or after the exhaust just worried about the radiant heat.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was pretty insistent on having my muffler horizontal instead of vertical, or almost vertical actually.
But my solution for the tall headers came in today.
Shorties!! They hang about 4" from the mounting surface versus the stockers which hang about 6.5", and they are pointed downwards. The shorties were kind of expensive at $182 shipped, and im a little bummed b/c i see that they have 1.5" tubing, the same size as my tube bender, so i probably could of made them my self. They also might be a little too short bc eyeing it up, the left side might run into the radiator tubing, or be dangerously close. So idk.

I dont have a temp gun but a friend of mine does and ill try to remember to borrow it to get a reading for you.
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be cool if you could do that for me. I wonder what that engine would sound like if you made the exhaust single tube header like a tri mill style.

Your set up looks good, giving me the motivation I need to get going on mine. Post a video of it running if you can.

Tony
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PostPosted: Thu May 01, 2014 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good News!!: 0-60 mph is about 6 seconds.

Bad News: 0-top speed is about 6 seconds. Sad

Yeah.........

Im hella bummed right now. I can believe that the top speed is 60 mph. Ohh my effing G.

Tim S said he has the same main gear as mine, a 5:38 and his does 75mph at 3800 rpms with 30" tires. I have the same size tires. So im assuming the 1/2/3/4 gears are geared really tall? idk. Its really bringing me down. I bought this trans from a guy, said it was never used and that he bought it brand new from VW Enterprises in Sacramento ca. I popped the drain plug out and sure enough it was bone dry, so im pretty sure its never been used. It had a tag on it that said "VW Enterprises, Pro Bus, 538 r/p," and some numbers that dont have any significance/meaning to me.

Any one have any ideas?

Crying or Very sad
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What rpm are you considering top speed? Gear ratio calculator says 5.38 r&p with 0.82 4th and 75mph and 30" tires is 3700rpm. A bit fast, but I've run it all day like that.

Right now I have 32" bfg's and calc says 3500rpm at 75.

Both of these figures are about right with my real world experience.

Looking at stock trans combos... all 5.38r&p had a .82 4th.


Worst case aftermarket 4th would be a 1.32, according to the chart I'm looking at, and that would be 4700rpm with 30" tires at 60mph...

If you know for sure your r&p you could always turn the engine by hand in fourth to find your gear ratio.

Bummer for sure!! If you do have to get another trans, I'd recommend going with a taller r&p for mostly street use. Mine works, but not ideal.

Maybe post those other numbers, or take a picture of the tag and someone will know what it means.
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Tim.

Heres a pic of the tag. im thinking the "158 - 121" might be the 3rd and 4th gear ratios, but idk.

Ill get a better reading of the rpms and mphs later today.
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those are both available third/fourth ratios (http://www.ratwell.com/mirror/sandlizrd.baja.com/gears.htm) so that would make sense. 1.21 is still a very low fourth gear. Sad

When I put mime together I did 't have a fourth gear and my top speed was 50ish so I know how it feels, good new is it sounds like you have a nice rebuilt trans to sell or trade. Or get a different gear.put in.
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I was looking at gears it appeared as though the type 1 trans and the 002 trans use the same gears. I have 2 broken type 1 under my deck. Do you know if they are actually interchangeable?
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do I? No. Hopefully someone does. Trans forum would be a good place to ask. I know a guy around here will tear down and rebuild your trans for $300 + parts if that helps you with a price estimate.
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with the work you have done to that thing already it sure looks like you should be able to take that project on yourself. I was pretty hesitant to do gears in my jeep but i took the plunge watched a couple vids on youtube and had the book next to me and my install went fine. if you can afford the down time might be another fun project for you.
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