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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chopper, i got some temp reading for you.
Its looking pretty good! This is just after i got back from a 20 min drive, engine temp was around 200*, normal operating temp.
I didnt believe it at first and it might be a little off since the muffler is so reflective (i kind of remember my friend telling me shiny surfaces dont read that great), but i touched it with my hand and i could leave my hand on the muffler for a few seconds with out burning my hand.
Let me know if there is any thing else i can test for you.
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PostPosted: Fri May 02, 2014 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That sounds promising, maybe I will push the radiator a couple inches away from the exhaust, put a heat shield between the muffler and fans pulling air. Think it would be to hot to have the radiator that close?
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Sat May 03, 2014 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be. i couldnt really say though.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just thought I'd give an update. The car has been running great! Haven't really don't much exciting to it except wire up the tail lights.
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So have you been driving it? How's it feel?
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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2014 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you still have the error codes? Congrats. Let's see it in the dirt Twisted Evil
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 5:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He must be out having too much fun... or still walking back Shocked
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2014 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hahaha

Yeah still having fun, and working to pay back my saving account for the monies spent on this car.

Ive been driving it as a daily driver for the most part. I dont do freeway bc the gearing issue. But i still get around on the back roads just fine. I havent really taken it in the dirt bc one of my lower bumper mounting tubes isnt connected and is hanging lower then any thing else on the car. To get that squared away i have to make new exhaust with the shortie headers i bought. That will hopefully get done this weekend. But its hard to tear apart a car i just got running and am enjoying so much. The things MOVES!!! I havent tried wheelies yet, partly bc i dont want to break it, and partly bc it dosnt have motor mounts and that seems like a lot of torque to put on the trans mounts. I haven't been able to figure my MPG yet bc my speedo only reads 30 MPH.

I still have an error code for the idle air circuit, but it comes and goes. It'll come on, the thing will idle at 500rpm or lower, it'll hang like that for about a min. or so, then it will "fix" its self, the light shuts off and it goes back to a 700-1100rpm idle. Which reminds me, the "park brake" wire is still only connected by an alligator clip jumper wire. So, theres still a big list of stuff i need to do to finish up the project. I have kind of taken a brake lately because summer has really set in around my neck of the woods and id much rather pick up my girl and go down to the river or out to the coast instead of tear apart the car i have worked so hard to build.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I havnt been on here a while mainly bc i got kind of burn out of working on it for a while. Lately, it been sitting and has not been driven for a while, mostly because the gear ratios in the trans. I didnt want to get into it, but the next big thing to over come was fixing those gears. So i jumped into it yesterday. Pulled the motor and trans. I found that my motor mount design wasnt great for removing the motor. The mounts got in the way of pulling the motor back and away from the trans. So i had to look at it for a while scratching my head, finally decide that i had to unbolt the trans and lift that as well. I think i got an idea for fixing the mounts with out totally redoing them.

So the trans is going to go to a local shop, but there is about a month turn around time. So while the car is down and out, im going to finish up my front end project. Here's the list:
Stripped cut and turned beam ready for paint
-relocated lower zerk fittings
-fully welded shock towers
-bumper mounts welded to upper tube
New T-arms and ball joints
Heim joints for tie rod ends
Poly beam bushings
Gonna gusset the spindles and pitman arm
Hook and rod stops
I have 4 steering boxes to pick apart and use the best parts of each (as well as get a good idea of how they work)
New drums
New wheel bearings and seal
New brake shoes
New wheel cylinders
Painted backing plates
But no new shocks (reason for that is bc im going to go with Link pin some day and want to get really good shocks then)...(but i might reconsider)

I started this project over a year ago but got distracted with engine problems, then distracted with the Subaru install. Now that the car is going to be off the road for a while i figured i might as well make the most of my time and utilize the $500 in brake and suspension parts i had lying around in my garage. The next thing to do on my list is to install the trailing arms (with out torsion springs) and set up the hook and rod set up. Then build the tie rods. Im glad this is going to be all bench work and the car will be movable still.
pics to come
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ORANGECRUSHer
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know the feeling. Sometimes you NEED to step back and do something else for a bit. Then when you come back to it you'll end up doing a better job and be more creative with your solutions. Even though my baja has me worn out, it was a nice distraction from the woods buggy which I had been working on every night for hours going on four months straight. Now I'm chompin at the bit to work on that again.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Took the trans down to the shop last week. They said about 3 to 4 weeks turn around time. So i got some time to do some things.
I decided to work on the car rather then work on the beam. I added some bracing, tieing it into the torsion housings. This was a PITA. I think doing this with the body removed is the way to go, but there is no way im going through all that trouble just to do a few welds. Someday when i have money and time i will do it like that, like its supposed to be done. But for now, the tubes welded to the torsion tubes are only half welded since i cant get to the front of them. Embarassed
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next on my list is to try and figure out why my left caliper is dragging more then my right. I cant reinforce enough how bad of a product empi makes. These brakes have been nothing but trouble since i first got them. They are shit, empi sucks and i wish i would of spent the money to do them right the first time. i think im going to end up doing what orangecrusher did which was use Audi calipers for $18 each instead of $150 each for the empi......god dam them :2gunfire:
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2014 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also gotta wrap the wires. But that can wait until i get done with the beam.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2014 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think those supports look good! I bet their plenty strong, only thing that would bother me is thinking about the water that'll get under the unwelded portion. But it's not like you can do anything about it anyway. Definitely be better than nothing, right?

You mentioned the Audi calipers and I'll give you a word of caution. They are big! They take up a lot of room between the rim and the rotor and I had to shave some meat off them. That and I'm not sure if the parking brake aspect is really going to be worth the work of getting them to work and protecing the linkage from damage.
Having said that, don't be afraid to try a different caliper that you can get cheap. Biggest issue is finding one that is made for unvented rotors. The Audis were for vented and even though I made up for that by making the gap narrower, there was still the physical girth I had to deal with. They're not easy to find but try if you can to source a caliper for an unvented rotor. You'll have to go back before 1995. I think that's why the nissan sentra caliper is preferred.

Anyway good luck and Allons-y!
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed that the rear rotors on my bosses 87' jag arnt vented. So that might be an option. Im helping him replace the brakes on the front right now and were probably going to do the rears soon. I hate those cars. It was like the engineers said "ok, how can we make this as difficult and complicated as possible? And with the most amount of parts?"

Any way, thats why i own a vw. On to the good stuff.

Over the weekend i tack welded the hook stop in place. I ran into a slight problem with the hooks hitting each other as the suspension cycled. I believe this is due to the fact that the hole i drilled for the rod was right in the center line of the two beam tubes, and quite possibly bc im not getting the 6.5" of total travel other people are getting. And that could be because i dont have clearenced ball joints. But i corrected the hook problem by off setting one inwards and the other outwards so they miss each other by about 1/8".
The first time i tacked the hooks, i was only getting 5" of total travel with the ball joints being the stopping factor. I decided to remove 1/2" of drop and 1/2" of compression. This limited my travel to 4". Being not satisfied with such a different number from others, i broke the tacks and took a look at it again. The camber eccentrics were not forwards like they are supposed to be (that gave me a little more travel) and i turned the spindle a little more straight (i noticed the first time around that in full drop or compress, wile turning the spindle left or right, it would take away from the travel). That gave me 5 3/4" total travel, i set the hooks to 5 1/4" travel and welded them.

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Yesterday i drilled out the tie rod end holes in the spindles and pitman arm to 5/8" Shocked Dear God it looked huge! But when i got home i measured the smallest part of a tie rod end and found that it was 1/2", so i really only went 1/8" bigger. Still, it was massive.

...and yes, thats a lawn mower blade holding the spindle flat against the dill press table...
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Today i welded the gussets onto the spindles. And i welded a 1/4" gusset i made yesterday onto the pitman arm. It dosnt look very pretty but it should help.

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Ive got to say, my beads have started to look a lot better!
I could still use some practice though. But thats why im in a welding class. On that note, i noticed today while in class that i can TIG weld a corner joint a lot better with my left hand then my right.
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Heres all the freshly welded components (minus the pitman arm, it was still hot) to go on.
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So once everything cooled down i started assembling the beam so i could cut my tie rods to length. You'll notice in the next two pics that the left side heim joint on the pitman arm is on the bottom side while the heim on the spindle is on the top. This caused some really bad bump steer and i later corrected it by putting the heim on the bottom side of the spindle. I relocated it in the first place bc it was interfering with the other heim joint on the pitman arm. Think that will cause a problem?
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And here is how it sits for now. I didnt fully weld the tie rods bc i feel like i need some time to think on it to make sure im not forgetting something. Those weld in bungs were about $10 each Shocked

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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

took apart a few steering boxes today. Got the best components out of them and put together my new steering box! Very Happy That stuffs painted and hung out to dry.
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Pulled my gas tank and master cylinder out and power washed the front end. The m/c was leaking so there was a lot of brake fluid all over. I think ill roll some paint on it tomorrow and call it good.

Been thinking about bigger rear trailing arms lately. I was kind of thinking 5x5. I just figure that if im going bigger, i might as well go a step further then 3x3. But im not sure if torsion bars can handle that (i know they can handle 3x3) and going with coilovers right away is a little too fast right now.

However, if i did go with 3x3's, all id really need to buy is the arms and the axles. I already have some shocks that will work and i have type 4 cv's.
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chubby53
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would go 3x3's. You figure you would want to go with coil overs with 5x5's. And also your going to have to watch out for fender laws with wider arms. If you want more clearance and travel maybe see if someone could build you 3 wider x 5 longer, but again you would want to use coilovers.
Just my .02 but 3x3's would be the way to go for now and if you ever want to go bigger you could sell them to me. Oh don't forget your gonna need to widen the front end to match.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think i will go with 3x3's eventually. But for now, i decided i need to kick the thought of new arms and spending more money on it, and just drive it. Just simply drive it. I did a lot of work to get that engine in there and the trans and there is no sense in pulling it apart again in the near future, even if it is for an improvement. I think maybe upgrade the headlights and install a heater should be next on my list.

Any way, onto what ive been working on.
Got the box assembled and adjusted. G's those things are easy! I use to be kind of confused on how they worked, but now its pretty simple to understand.


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I got all the components painted. I really like when i get everything out that im going to paint. Clean it all at the same time. Let it dry at the same time. Primer it at the same time. And then paint it at the same time.
This painting process did not go like that this time. I was painting,masking, priming, cleaning, removing stuff all at the same time. So naturally the paint process was very long. But im finally done (with the exception of the tie rods, they go last since they might have to be cut and adjusted).
Today after work i got to pick up a brake hardware kit and i can start to reassemble the front brakes. If the paint is feeling good and dry by today i can start reassembling the beam! I also have to bleed the master cylinder. Not too excited about that. Brake repair and me dont get along.
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thesatelliteguy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I want to show this pic as a reference for adding shim washers to a steering box to prevent damage to the box cover. I think the easies way to determine how many washers to use is to adjust the play in the box, then remove the pitman arm and add washers until you can barely get the pitman arm on. I also put a small amount of grease between each washer, then wiped off the excess.
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I got the beam assembled and put in the car. Installed the brakes and all other components. This pic dosnt show exactly where i am right now, but close enough. The car is sitting back on its wheels and the front suspension is done as far as i know. Just needs some testing.
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I got my girlfriend to help me bleed the brakes yesterday and i got to say, in the 7 years i have had this car, i have never had the brake pedal feel so good! Usually it would get pressure about 2" before hitting the floor. After that they seemed to work fine, although the backs did lock up before the fronts.
Now, about 2" in they get pressure.
I guess bleeding the master cylinder helps....... Embarassed Never knew that would make such a difference.

I went to the auto parts store yesterday to get brake fluid. Saw these and decide to bring them home with me. Good Lord they are bright! I hooked one of them up to the battery in my Honda and they are a lot brighter then the Honda's lights. A really good projector pattern too from what i could see. Im planning on having these as my headlights until i get told other wise Laughing But i think im going to have to do some trimming around the opening in the hood for them to fit with out getting rubbed by the tires.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greast lights for serious offroad. I don't recommend them for street use though. A lot of offroad racers use those exact lights on their racers and I've not heard a bad word from anyone except other people who think "you get what you pay for". But those people don't understand that may be true regarding bargains. It's often NOT true for paying full price for that stuff somebody has invested a bunch in advertising for.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why dont you recommend them for street use?

I guess its a little late for that now, and ill find out when i get the trans and motor back in.

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