How to make a progressive work properly on a VW engine.

[AZ1320]

if I do the modification jet adjustments like stated in the being, will it lean my car out from its current state or fatten it up. currently it is running fat when I burp the throttle and it rolls a little black smoke. the way it reads it sounds like it will fatten up the fuel ration. am I wrong and I would take any advice I can get here.

[1975 Kombi]

I'm having trouble with my weber idling. It will start fine and run for 5 seconds and then slowly drop off unless I play with the throttle. Just looking for areas to check. jet size? initial carb setup? timing? Any ideas.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[Wildthings]

[[email protected]]

what kind of engine is this? If it is in fact a 75 Type 2 with a type 4 engine you are a wasting our time and bandwidth, because you didn't even read the first post in THIS THREAD that says progressives won't work well on type 4 engines no matter what you do (because of intake volume and no preheat).

"Centermount Progressives NEED intake heat, and lots of it. This is why a progressive on a T4 WILL NOT WORK. It's so bad and unfixable, we do not even sell the kits that are available for the T4. It will not work, do not ask, because the answer is "get dual carbs". Nuff' Said. "

[1975 Kombi]

Well I guess I was trying to find the less amount of does not work. lol.
_________________
Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v

[[email protected]]

Cowboy Proverb: "There are 3 kinds of people in this World. The first learn by reading, and by observation. The second learn by listening to others, asking questions, and thinking. The third have to piss on the electric fence to figure it out themselves"
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It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

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[joescoolcustoms]

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[Natemeins]

This has indeed been a very interesting thread to read. I apologize in advance if this has been answered, I'm currently on page 9 and I am anxious to continue reading but I had to get this out.
So I took the advice of John and while I had my '68 bus engine out (brand new aluminum case, 1641 DP, Scat balanced 69mm crank, Engle 110 cam, stock heads, deep sump, HO oil pump with remote oil filter, Weber 32/36 with Empi (i know) intake WITH heat runners, Empi "performance" single output exhaust with riser fittings at #2 and #4, Pertronix SVDA dizzy, approx 3,000 miles since build) I tore down my carb. I should say prior to me removing the engine (fixing/inspecting a persistent small oil leak around pulley, among other minor things) the engine runs (to me, anyway) fine. No obvious flat spots, decent power (for a bus?), regularly pull a smallish bass/aluminum boat with no issues, and once I found the vacuum leak it ran even better. It has been running at approx 30-31deg BTDC with no detonation noise that I can hear. First starting out my plugs were quite black. Fixing the leak, resetting advance (from 28-30), and adjusting the carb, the insulators are now quite white. I would venture it's running a little too lean. I installed the carb right from the box, set it up as instructed, and appeared to run just fine. Upon teardown I find SEVERAL fasteners loose, the typical "factory" jetting, and the autochoke (the apparatus that's attached to the electric choke actuator) stop screw LOOSE in the chamber, and the outer plug screw missing! On top of all this, I found lots of black crud in the bowl (I run two fuel filters, one before electric fuel pump, the other after regulator), and found lots of metal shavings at the fuel screen (which was virtually crushed, by the way)! Honestly, I can't believe the engine was running so well, or so I think. Should also mention my mixture screw setting was 3/4-7/8 turn out and idle speed screw at 2 turns. Anyway, I'm cleaning it all up and putting it together correctly with John's tuning advice close to heart. He's set me up in the past with dual Kadrons I had for my Ghia several years ago and that car ran like a stuck pig!! I have just a couple questions for you, John; or whomever has the proper answers.
1: Where can I find information on how to properly set this stop screw for the "autochoke" diaphragm, and can I easily find a replacement cap screw or will/can I use a properly threaded screw with some sealer to cover the access hole? While we're talking about adjusting items that aren't generally adjusted or discussed for that matter, how about the secondary idle speed screw? Where should this screw be adjusted to? It seems this location would have significance to the idle circuit (I can see the idle orifices right at the butterfly plate).
2: John, the one thing I've noticed in all this discussion, is no talk of different engine builds. Does your setup work well for a complete stocker 60hp 1600DP all the way up to, say a 120hp 1836 streeter? Are we to assume your settings are just a VERY close starting point? Just interesting to me, like I said that's the only thing I've not seen discussed or even asked if it made a difference.
I'm anxious and excited to put my carb back together with the proper settings (and I promise I'm changing the intake, honest!) and see if I notice more power, efficiency (I'm currently getting approx 19mpg in the bus), and drivability. As I said before, it felt like it was running pretty well, until I recently pulled the plugs and they read overly lean. Thanks fellas (and ladies) for your help, advice, and guidance.
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'70 Karmann Ghia *SOLD* Grrr!
'72 VW-Porsche 914 *SOLD*
Early '68 Hard Top Westy
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[titus116]

http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

I printed out this page and keep it in my tool box.

The big beef I have with the progressive is that the linkage restricts the throttle from opening the 2nd barrel all the way. I've been satisfied with it either way. It is just time consuming getting it set when you have to pull it and change the jets on it.
Has anyone tried putting a holley 350 carb on the weber 32/36 intake?

[snowbug]

[mikedjames]

I made this linkage for my progressive.

This gives a 10 percent increase in movement of the throttle relative to the cable. The cable also runs straight


I also have a 10mm nut soldered to the idle screw adjustment on mine then I can use a stubby ring spanner to set idle.

[snowbug]

Has anyone tried to bore out the primary on one of these carbs.It Would be nice to have a 34/36 or 36/36mm. I wonder how much metal is in there to bore out. Any body have a scrap carb I could experiment with? Jim

[modok]

no point making throttle larger than 1.33 times venturi size

No point making the venturi larger than 1.22 times the runner size

[Wildthings]

[snowbug]

Well I am almost ready to chuck this carb into the scrap bin. My brother ran this real Weber carb on a 1850 for years with no conplaints. Here is what I have now 1776, 100 cam , 041 heads hemi cut dual springs. Header. SV dist. Intake is not the good one but new heat risers are connected. No hot air. I rebuilt the carb. It runs good almost like a stock carb on the first barrel. When I open it up , it goes bla, just flat sometimes back fires. Its like the power valve is not opening. Did the same thing before rebuild. Here is the specs in the carb; idle prime .50 second .60 , mains 140P 195S , air 180P 160S air jets are like that to lean the main a bit and richen the second. Switched fuel pumps too. The air ways and ports seem clear. Secondary is just not getting gas. what the frig? Jim

[[email protected]]

swap your air jets, the bigger one needs to be on the secondary to bring it in earlier. What ignition timing? Semi Hemi runs like a pig (my opinion), ESPECIALLY with low compressoin, and needs more timing. Like 12 at idle and 36-38 total.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
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[snowbug]

[[email protected]]

So what is your experience with Semi Hemi?

I'd remove the secondary emulsion tube and jets, and make sure they are clear.
_________________
It's just advice, do whatever you want with it!

Please do NOT send me Private Messages through the Samba PM System (I will not see them). Send me an e-mail to john at aircooled dot net

"Like" our Facebook page at
http://www.facebook.com/vwpartsaircoolednet
and get a 5% off code for use on one order for VW Parts ON OUR PARTS STORE WEBSITE, vwparts.aircooled.net

[mikedjames]

[snowbug]