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All the bolt on mods 1600 w/ butt dyno results
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the replies. After reading these posts, I guess I should add a little more info. I would really like to run it on a dyno, but up here we only have one that I know of, and it is a diesel truck shop. I might have to see if they will allow me in the door.

A little more engine info:

I changed the plugs and wires when I first got the car, and did the first valve adjustment.

When I had the engine out to do the flywheel seal I pulled a head to fix a PR tube. I measured the piston .040" below the top, and a .055" step in the head, for a .095 deck height. I also measured 55cc in the chamber. The bores were stock. According to my calc's I have a craptastic 6.7cr.

My original plan was to add a set of 87's, port/3 angle/rebuild a set of stock heads with the 1.4's and good springs, make the deck .040" and the CR 8:1. I bought all the part to do this, and a few days after I got the parts, a complete long block showed up from an old friend tired of tripping over it. I ordered some different parts, and I now have a 2054 mocked up, and ready for final assy.

I would still like to do the 87's and the heads just for shits and giggles, just to see how much better it will run. I can't wait to get the 2054 in the car and really beat on it.

I am having a blast with this thing even if my "Butt dyno is absolutely meaningless". I have only owned a VW for 1 year now. I came from a bunch of custom rockcrawlers and grew up with muscle cars. These little cars are amazing and I really enjoy researching and building.

Here is a pic of my little beater/driver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I am off to wash and wax the car. An old timer promised me it will run better. Wink
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Hotrodvw
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing I can't wait for you to prove Dave wrong. Laughing

Wait for it.............wait for it.......
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Chris Vellat
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea You measured 55cc's in the head without measuring the area in the step ya' say Wink

Might you have measured the step twice in doing your math?
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chris Vellat wrote:
Idea You measured 55cc's in the head without measuring the area in the step ya' say Wink

Might you have measured the step twice in doing your math?


The lexan disk set right on the step, giving me 55cc in the chamber. Do I not need to include the step in my #'s?? Here I thought I had the deck height thing figured out. Embarassed Remember I am still new to this stuff.

Step in head =.050"
piston top =.040" below top of cyl.
chamber size with CC disk setting on the step = 55cc.
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midtravelmidengine
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya, you already accounted for the step in the cc, so it sounds like you counted it twice, but yes i would still cut it out to get a good quench area and pep it up a bit.
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midtravelmidengine
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2009 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i get 7.53 if the deck is .040 and a head cc of 55...


using this one...
http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/compression_calculator.html

looks like 8.42 without the step.


if you switch to the 87's you get 8.65...
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
1.25 rockers reduced the time by 6 seconds?


Jim - you missed my note at the bottom - if you have more carb and more exhaust, but the heads don't flow, additional lift would let you actually take advantage of it. If it was done the other way around, (rockers first) you would probably not see much, if any difference at that stage. Makes sense?

And to the OP - sorry for diverging - your car looks great and these cars are a freakin blast, arent they? Nice ride.
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madmike
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gonna be a sweet sleeper with the 2054 in it Cool what Carbs you going to run? Hint; I see lot of 44 Webers in the classifieds Laughing
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
Gonna be a sweet sleeper with the 2054 in it Cool what Carbs you going to run? Hint; I see lot of 44 Webers in the classifieds Laughing


I will be running the Kads with machined vents on the new engine. They will only be on there till early/mid summer till I do the megasquirt. I will add a bung into the header, and can use an LM1 to help with tuning the kads. I know it isn't ideal, but I have most of the efi parts already, and I can finish it for less then most used webers.
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

midtravelmidengine wrote:
i get 7.53 if the deck is .040 and a head cc of 55...


using this one...
http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/compression_calculator.html

looks like 8.42 without the step.


if you switch to the 87's you get 8.65...


So on the new engine, do I put the lexan disk down on the flat part of the chamber just inside the step?? On the new heads I now have a .035" step and .008" of space above the piston in the cyl. I figured this would be a perfect .043" deck. So i just need to take a bunch out of the chambers to get the compression down to 8.5 correct??
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mcguyver16
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
madmike wrote:
Gonna be a sweet sleeper with the 2054 in it Cool what Carbs you going to run? Hint; I see lot of 44 Webers in the classifieds Laughing


I will be running the Kads with machined vents on the new engine. They will only be on there till early/mid summer till I do the megasquirt. I will add a bung into the header, and can use an LM1 to help with tuning the kads. I know it isn't ideal, but I have most of the efi parts already, and I can finish it for less then most used webers.


I built a 2054. Dual webber 40's, 1 3/8 exhaust, 1.25 rockers, 9:1 compression, 40/35 valves (port and polished). 0-60 in around 7 sec. Thats a hell of a lot better than 18 sec. (but im no drag racer)
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Gary Massin-Ball
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
So on the new engine, do I put the lexan disk down on the flat part of the chamber just inside the step?? On the new heads I now have a .035" step and .008" of space above the piston in the cyl. I figured this would be a perfect .043" deck. So i just need to take a bunch out of the chambers to get the compression down to 8.5 correct??


Yes you are correct if you use the .035 as deck hieght with the .008 piston hieght then when you measure the CC chambers the plate has to be against the quench area not up on the step.

With 55ccs I get 9.2:1 what cam will you use in the 2054?
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
midtravelmidengine wrote:
i get 7.53 if the deck is .040 and a head cc of 55...


using this one...
http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/compression_calculator.html

looks like 8.42 without the step.


if you switch to the 87's you get 8.65...


So on the new engine, do I put the lexan disk down on the flat part of the chamber just inside the step?? On the new heads I now have a .035" step and .008" of space above the piston in the cyl. I figured this would be a perfect .043" deck. So i just need to take a bunch out of the chambers to get the compression down to 8.5 correct??


place the lexan disc against the same surface that the top of the cylinder will ultimately mate with. everything on the other side of the lexan will be your head cc's.
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gary Massin-Ball wrote:
Quote:
So on the new engine, do I put the lexan disk down on the flat part of the chamber just inside the step?? On the new heads I now have a .035" step and .008" of space above the piston in the cyl. I figured this would be a perfect .043" deck. So i just need to take a bunch out of the chambers to get the compression down to 8.5 correct??


Yes you are correct if you use the .035 as deck height with the .008 piston height then when you measure the CC chambers the plate has to be against the quench area not up on the step.

With 55ccs I get 9.2:1 what cam will you use in the 2054?


I will be running a 110 cam. I was shooting or 8.5cr. I am still working on the chambers. They are at 57cc right now, but I don't know where to cut to get more cc's. I ordered some .010" shims, so I might increase the deck to around .053". Is 8.7 too much for a 110 cam, and stock valve P&P heads??

Brian
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krusher
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 2:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:
Gary Massin-Ball wrote:
Quote:
So on the new engine, do I put the lexan disk down on the flat part of the chamber just inside the step?? On the new heads I now have a .035" step and .008" of space above the piston in the cyl. I figured this would be a perfect .043" deck. So i just need to take a bunch out of the chambers to get the compression down to 8.5 correct??


Yes you are correct if you use the .035 as deck height with the .008 piston height then when you measure the CC chambers the plate has to be against the quench area not up on the step.

With 55ccs I get 9.2:1 what cam will you use in the 2054?


I will be running a 110 cam. I was shooting or 8.5cr. I am still working on the chambers. They are at 57cc right now, but I don't know where to cut to get more cc's. I ordered some .010" shims, so I might increase the deck to around .053". Is 8.7 too much for a 110 cam, and stock valve P&P heads??

Brian


Stock valve p&p heads (if ported very well) have about about a ceiling of 120hp, the next step up heads will get you in the 130/150hp the 2054 has potential of, but then the kadron might hold it back from that.
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alien8
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian_e wrote:


Here is a pic of my little beater/driver.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I am off to wash and wax the car. An old timer promised me it will run better. Wink


Mate thats a sweet bug. Is that blue a satin?
og colour?
I really dig that combo, satin blue and white two tone.
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

alien8 wrote:

Mate thats a sweet bug. Is that blue a satin?
og colour?
I really dig that combo, satin blue and white two tone.


Thanks, it is all satin to hide the waves. The blue started as a partial can of ford blue and we dumped a smaller left over can of black into it. super quick paint job. We drove it in friday night, filled some holes, fixed some cracks, hit the high spots, and drove it out sunday afternoon. There are some more pics in my gallery.
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fastwagens
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just read through this thread. I love what you did and Am in the process of doing the same but with a few different options. 1. I am using a NOS bugspray. 2. A stinger and 3 a power pulley.

I am following the same set up used in the how to hotrod a VW engine.

Are the 1.4:4 still working out alright?

BTW sweet looking ride.
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Brian_e
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 31, 2010 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fastwagens wrote:
Are the 1.4:4 still working out alright?

BTW sweet looking ride.


The 1:4's were working awesome till I was peelin' out and something popped, and now I have no power and a horrible rattle at anything above an idle. It sounds like one of the header tubes is open now.

I haven't torn into it yet, but I am guessing an exhaust valve or spring. I am just about done with the 2054. I will tear into this after the new one is in and running.

I am going to rebuild the engine that just died and add the extra 87's I have on the shelf and keep all the bolt ons. I will also port the heads. Then it will be most everything possible without splitting the case. I guess I just like experimenting.

Thanks, Brian
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fastwagens
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 01, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How many miles did you put on the 1.4:1 rockers and how was the drivabilty? as far as smooth acceleration
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