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Driver side upper engine mounting bolt
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LowNslow '65
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 8:59 pm    Post subject: Driver side upper engine mounting bolt Reply with quote

When I bought my 69 I noticed that only 3 bolts were holding the motor in and they were a little loose letting the motor move around. My case has a threaded insert and the bolt goes in from the transmission side.
Does anybody know what size the upper drivers side bolt is?
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desertmedic
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries, mine only has 3 bolts as does most that have ever had an engine pulled for any reason. If it will make you have that warm fuzzy maybe someone will post the size. I would help you out but have no idea. The excess movement could be worn transimission mounts as well.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

M10x70

If you only needed 3 bolts the factory would not of added a 4th.
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LowNslow '65
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool deal! Thanks Glenn
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desertmedic
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 7:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enough said.... I took care of it. I went and put a zip tie where the bolt was!!!! Sorry I'm out of bailing wire. Say what you want but you will not make me believe that you havent seen/done it before. Is it the lazy way, maybe. Is it right, probably not. Is it detrimental, I don't believe so. I'm not trying to pass on bad habits to the new guy just saying it isnt the end of the world and is quite common. Webwalker, its not really a burn as just that warm fuzzy feeling I spoke of. What does "prick" feel like? Rolling Eyes Laughing
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a.graham52
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i bought a 68 parts car that was parked for the last 8 years. it was last inspected with only two bolts holding the engine, and 7 patches riveted in the floor and lower body
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That bolt threads in readily, especially if you position yourself more forward than you might think, and reach above the drive shafts. Ise a 3/8 inch drive ratchet with one or two long extensions and a 17mm socket. If you don't have such extensions, buy 'em, they're really handy. Buying/having tools is never a waste.
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gt1953
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get the correct bolt and put it in you will be glad you did.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prehaps sir. But I will concede. M10-70 belongs there. I am about to leave for work but will install one when I get back. (Work is in Abu Dhabi, UAE) The commute is a bear! I do have a question for you, all be it off subject. In your signature you have 72 1/2 super. I have a 72 vert, according to the door sticker was built in 11/71. What disguinshes a 72 1/2, and what are the differences?
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amazinglarry104
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed the same thing when I pulled my engine. The top drivers side bolt was missing. When I got the engine out, I noticed there were places inside the transmission ground away from the engine shifting around./ Shocked
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

desertmedic wrote:
Prehaps sir. But I will concede. M10-70 belongs there. I am about to leave for work but will install one when I get back. (Work is in Abu Dhabi, UAE) The commute is a bear! I do have a question for you, all be it off subject. In your signature you have 72 1/2 super. I have a 72 vert, according to the door sticker was built in 11/71. What disguinshes a 72 1/2, and what are the differences?


The factory often did half year mods, and January of the model year (in my case 72) was the usual time that they would make the change, using up the rest of the old parts (which is why its sometimes tough to pin down a change to a specific VIN) and then beginning to install the new parts. My 1302 was made in February of 1972, placing it in the same model month as the Weltmeister, the Beetle that broke the ModelT production record.

There were a couple of midyear changes for 72-1/2, including retracting seatbelts, a seat belt warning light (causing the light to illuminate and the buzzer to sound any time you were in a gear with the engine running, but with your seatbelt off. )

There were a few other minor changes, too, but they escape me right now. This is what makes the model year user's manual kind of a knee slapper, because often they use photos from the previous year's model to apply to the current year model, which may have changed again by the time you buy it late in the model year.

So it wasn't uncommon for midyear changes to happen. The 1976 bus changed seat rails midyear, but the craziest change I ever saw was the Vanagon, which changed engines and cooling technology from aircooled to watercooled *midyear* in 1983. I can imagine a redesigned head midyear...but the whole freaking engine and cooling system? Yowza.

Stay safe in the UAE. I'll bet A/C would be a welcome upgrade!
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LowNslow '65
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

desertmedic wrote:
Enough said.... I took care of it. I went and put a zip tie where the bolt was!!!! Sorry I'm out of bailing wire. Say what you want but you will not make me believe that you havent seen/done it before. Is it the lazy way, maybe. Is it right, probably not. Is it detrimental, I don't believe so. I'm not trying to pass on bad habits to the new guy just saying it isnt the end of the world and is quite common. Webwalker, its not really a burn as just that warm fuzzy feeling I spoke of. What does "prick" feel like? Rolling Eyes Laughing


I dont understand why you have to be a smart ass there is a time and place for that.... I asked a simple question and it got answered, what you choose to do with your car is up to you nobody is stopping you. As far as a new guy Im not. Ive been here longer than you have, and when I answer somebodys question I try to help them because it is a problem to them and not a joke! I didnt come on here amused that my engine was being held in by 3 bolts. Just as stated before if it came from the factory with 4 bolts I will put 4 bolts back in. Also somthing for you to consider thinking about, If the other 3 bolts works themselfs loose you will be putting a lot of stress on the input shaft, clutch disc and pilot bearing....

This is the car that Iam finishing up that is missing that bolt. I was planning on getting a bolt while the motor was out but I didnt remember until I was installing it at 2am. Now that I got everything in there its a PIA to try to figure out the right bolt size.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=383693

Have a nice day


Dan
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thats a great looking car. after doign all that work i dont blame you for not wanting to do temp. fixes. do right the first time!
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LowNslow '65
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Cool
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 05, 2009 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan,

Don't take too much offense at desertmedic; I flamed him (bad enough to get my OP in the thread deleted Embarassed ) and he and sorted it out. You don't have to take offense; I already did that for you. Wink

Hope the rest of the work went well.

M
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 11:55 am    Post subject: The dreaded bolt Reply with quote

I have a 67 bus and the drivers side upper bolt was always giving me reason to shout profanities...as my bolt was loose and had nuts on each side...the transmission side was easy to reach but the engine side was behind the air shroud with little room to maneuver...if I could just weld that engine side bolt into place I would solve my problems...but I had a brainstorm and sliced an access panel between the support beams above and had easy access..found the three nuts I had dropped and now am grateful that my engine is properly mounted with all four bolts.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marc wrote:
AutoSticks use longer hardware, the following applies to 4-speeds.

The LH bolt is 70mm long, the RH is 110mm. Thread is m10x1.5
Depending upon the year of the car/transaxle/starter/engine either bolt may be hex- or D-headed. You can always use a hex-head bolt, but most starters have "nibs" to hold a D-head from spinning which makes it easier to tighten the nut. Mid`60 thru 1970 trans cases have nibs for the LH bolt as well (they were dropped in `71 with the introduction of the DP engine that has a threaded steel insert in the case for the LH bolt).
P/N for the 110mm D-head is 111 199 101
The 70mm D-head is N 010 470 7 (AKA N104707)

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=140119&p=1127152
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2012 10:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now thinking about it, neither my 71 Super, 70 Baja, or 71 Bus had the upper drives side bolt when I got them - and still don't Embarassed. I'm unsure about my 73 Super because thats the only one I haven't had to pull the motor out of yet Laughing
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2012 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

miss·ing/ˈmisiNG/
Adjective: (of a thing) Not able to be found because it is not in its expected place. Not present or included when expected or supposed to be.

I bought a replacement and put it in. Having it in place hasn't caused any problems. Cool
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 27, 2013 11:24 am    Post subject: Re: Driver side upper engine mounting bolt Reply with quote

Very helpful posts. Thanks to all for the info. Just found that mine is missing (1776 in a '67 bus) and I am pulling the engine this afternoon. I'll head down to the imports shop and pick up that bolt and nut. Very thankful for this site!
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