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Crankshaft gear removal?
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:04 pm    Post subject: Crankshaft gear removal? Reply with quote

Does the crankshaft gear on a Type 1 motor have to be pressed off the crank or can it be heated like the cam gear and removed off of the crank? I need to remove the bearing on the crank and have to get the gears off. The cam gear came off with heat with no problem at all.
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cam gear? There are two gears - a brass one for the dist and a steel one that drives the cam. You need a gear puller and/or a press OR you will screw it up. Any machine shop can handle it. Have to be really careful if you use a press because it can damage the journals if it falls etc. I like one of these for T4's but a clamshell and 2 or 3 arm puller works well on the T1. They are easier to get off.

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Last edited by SGKent on Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:12 pm; edited 3 times in total
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't the cam gear on the crankshaft?? Or do you mean distributor drive? Or were you pulling the gear off the cam??

Either way a big 3 jaw puller works every time for me.
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry, I meant the cam gear. The distributor gear came off with a little bit of heat.
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, I will give it a try with my 3 arm puller. Didn't know if heat would help also.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you aren't going to do this very often take it to the machine shop or as BusDaddy said use a 3 arm puller, or a 2 arm and split clamshell. Do not pound on the gear under any circumstances, even with brass or lead.
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm taking the heads to a shop tomorrow so I will just have them pull it off. I don't want to take any chances. If I had that nice little tool you showed in your picture I would do it myself. I'll have them measure the crank while it's there as well.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is the best way. word to the wise. Wrap that puppy up in a big blanket cause they love to roll around. That or make a wooden rack to transport it. Cranks love to bang into things.
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up. I've decided to go a different route after reading many posts here. I found a company in PA that can do the following work for me. It appears that they have a great reputation so here is what they are going to do for me.

1. Clean and inspect engine case- Align bore if necessary
2. Check crank for straightness and also measure all journals to see if it is in spec. If not, replace or regrind the crank
3. Heads will be inspected and a proper valve job will be performed if need be.
4. Possibly tap case for full flow- Not sure if I should as this bus is only going to see about 1500 miles of driving per year.
5. Purchase all necessary items to put it back together.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a good plan, tap the case even if you don't go full flow right now, removing a pipe plug and changing the oil pump cover is way easier than dismantling the engine if you do choose to add a filter later.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah yes, good point! I will have that done for sure. Man I learn something everyday.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank shaft gear puller you have to be care witch one you buy, that is if you are buying. There is two of them the problem with the cheap one there is not a foot on it where it pushes against the crank. Then the other one cost close to $90.00 I think. The first one is just a little on the short side and is not easy to use. That is the one I bought...DAMN. So don't buy the cheap one. Sorry I don't know who sales the good one.

Also trying to get that clip ring out can be a bitch without the right tool. Even with the right tool careful. You will also need a screw driver to help.
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Sawsalesman
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, I was able to get the clip off and the distributor gear off but not the cam gear. It's all good. Everything is going to a machine shop on January 5th. The shop I'm going to use is in PA and I travel out there on business once a month. Drop it all off in January, pick it all up in February. I just want this sucker done my June.
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