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2276 with stock clearenced rods
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cptcliffhanger
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 4:40 pm    Post subject: 2276 with stock clearenced rods Reply with quote

anybody built one? did it last.. Dune buggy engine.. i'm not apposed to buying longer rods if need be, but i've been told the stock rods were fine, and I happen to have 2 sets of good stock rods..
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jakeddy
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what is in mine. I have a set of H Beams but I'm leaving the stock clearanced rods in as that's how the engine was built to begin with. Funny, in mine the case is clearanced but the camshaft was not, I thought you had too but apparently not.
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perrib
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would take some seroius case clearancing but they might work with a stock or very mild cam. You should get Gene Berg or Rimco to race prep them. They take some material from the big end so you don't have to clearance the case as much. The rods are also shot peened magnafluxed correctly machine to the proper size and center to the same center distance and balanced. Better rod bolts and nuts are used which is the weak spot for stock VW rods. All that said CB's H beam rod with 3/8" ARP 2000 rod bolts are not much more money and allows one to use Buick rod bearings which make the big end much smaller. An 86 mm stroker crank with CB H beam rods fits in case clearanced for an 82 mm stroke crank with ease. CBs Uni tech and Scats VW journal I beam rod also have more clearance than a clearanced stock VW rod.
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Bad bug
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am glad the original poster posted this because i am thinking of doing a 2276cc t1 with stock rods and a mild tune. After seeing Mark Herbert quafe test i wanted to do one but the 2332cc t1 is still calling me. Oh! by the way if either is built it will be a daily driver.
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77charger
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isnt an 82mm stroke harder on the rod bolts (stock rod length)?

I had stock rods on my 69mm and would take as high as 7k but often to 6500.When i built my 2275 i used cb h beams 5.4 length i would have done 5,5 but i was originally going to just swap rods and cam on my 1914 but changed plans cause i dropped a cylinder cleaning it and already had the 5.4s. Mad
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perrib
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CPTCliffhanger
Sorry I missed the post title stating they were already clearanced. Your reference to stock rods in the post mislead me.

77 charger
I have run Rimco and Demello race prepped clearanced rods with cams up to VZ 30 size with no problem. Gene Bergs are also very high quality.
Gene Berg and Dean Lowrey ran them 9000 rpms in thier drag cars before better Carillo rods were developed for VW but checked them very often. Gene Berg alway said the limit for long life with them was a 78 mm crank.
These days it is easier to go with Buick crank journals and Eagle's Chinese copy of Carillo's H beam rods everyone is selling dirt cheap.
The last set of Buick journal CB H beams I bought with 3/8 ARP 2000 rod bolts were $25 more than Rimco's Super rods.
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77charger
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perrib wrote:
CPTCliffhanger

77 charger
I have run Rimco and Demello race prepped clearanced rods with cams up to VZ 30 size with no problem. Gene Bergs are also very high quality.
Gene Berg and Dean Lowrey ran them 9000 rpms in thier drag cars before better Carillo rods were developed for VW but checked them very often. Gene Berg alway said the limit for long life with them was a 78 mm crank.
These days it is easier to go with Buick crank journals and Eagle's Chinese copy of Carillo's H beam rods everyone is selling dirt cheap.
The last set of Buick journal CB H beams I bought with 3/8 ARP 2000 rod bolts were $25 more than Rimco's Super rods.


Good to know i built my uncles motor i used stock clearnaced rods for his 78mm crank(he didnt want to spend more for better bolts).

I am using vw journals on my motor i had to have the cam clearanced for the 82mm crank.Block was no worries since its an alm raised roof case.Was thinking of doing the buick ones but when i bought the rods stroker motor wasnt in the plans.Maybe next time i will consider buick journals and a 90mm crank Laughing but really happy with the power band of this motor its actually perfect for my driving in the dunes. Very Happy
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Hophead
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 16, 2009 11:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought Cb's Hbeams came with 5/16" rod bolts not 3/8". My 5.4's are 5/16"
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished a 2276 for my street car. I machine clearanced my own stock rods. Even used stock bolts. The rod angle is 1.67 so I don't see a problem. I did balance them before and after they were cut down. Funny thing, after all that machine work on the rods, they were still within 1 gram of each other.
I did have to clearance the cam at the center bearing surface and the back of the thrust surface.
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jakeddy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy076 wrote:
I just finished a 2276 for my street car. I machine clearanced my own stock rods. Even used stock bolts. The rod angle is 1.67 so I don't see a problem. I did balance them before and after they were cut down. Funny thing, after all that machine work on the rods, they were still within 1 gram of each other.
I did have to clearance the cam at the center bearing surface and the back of the thrust surface.


By any chance did you take a picture of that?

This has me rethinking using the stock rods in my 2276, I do plan on taking it up to 7500 at times. I already have them, I've really got nothing to loose and maybe an engine to gain.
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jfats808
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 5:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hophead wrote:
I thought Cb's Hbeams came with 5/16" rod bolts not 3/8". My 5.4's are 5/16"


Many H beam brands namely CB,eagle,Scat i know for sure have both 3/8 and 5/16 bolt size choices in 8740 and arp 2000. Arp2000 has a higher psi strength. 8740 is good enough for street applications, personal preference for me is run arp 2000 on all my rod sets.
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ALB
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy076 wrote:
I just finished a 2276 for my street car. I machine clearanced my own stock rods. Even used stock bolts. The rod angle is 1.67 so I don't see a problem. I did balance them before and after they were cut down. Funny thing, after all that machine work on the rods, they were still within 1 gram of each other.
I did have to clearance the cam at the center bearing surface and the back of the thrust surface.


How thick did you leave the caps?
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Mr. Electric Wizard
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jfats808 wrote:
Hophead wrote:
I thought Cb's Hbeams came with 5/16" rod bolts not 3/8". My 5.4's are 5/16"


Many H beam brands namely CB,eagle,Scat i know for sure have both 3/8 and 5/16 bolt size choices in 8740 and arp 2000. Arp2000 has a higher psi strength. 8740 is good enough for street applications, personal preference for me is run arp 2000 on all my rod sets.


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cptcliffhanger
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool!

Keep on talking, i'm listening!
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77charger
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 17, 2009 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hophead wrote:
I thought Cb's Hbeams came with 5/16" rod bolts not 3/8". My 5.4's are 5/16"


Mine came with arp2000s in 5/16th
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Gary Massin-Ball
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 18, 2009 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Built hundres of big engines with stock clearanced rods they're GGGGreat!
Gary.
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry i didn't take pictures. I took approx. 1/2 of the reinforcing ridiges off the caps, and thined the sides of the rods to the edge of the nut circle,so the nut still had a good seating surface. This was done on a mill with a carbide cutter, the metal is very hard.
Then I shortened the nuts by turning them over on the bolts, torqued them to 25#, and grinding off the staking ring and bolt end together. The cap end of the bolt must be clearanced as well, so I radised these on a pedistal grinder by hand, as well as cleaning up any burs left from milling. They are not as pretty as the ones you buy. If I would have taped them off and sand blasted them they would look the same.
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thepadawan
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

see, like i mentioned in a early post, iam building a 1641 and dont have the money for the chromoly rods this go around. I always build engines not for what is supposed to happen, but what COULD happen. I have several vw engines where i told myself, that one is set at 6500rpms max.. and slung it to 7200, and a class 1600 engine i told myself would redline at 7000, yet I took it to 7800 a few times when I was pacing for a pass. You never know, and I would hate to bank a 500 dollar crank, 700 dollar case, pistons, heads, on the hope that i will never put them tot here max, thats me. Others have way better self control, I dont lol
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bugguy076
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree with Padawan. If your self control isn't good, spend the extra to make it last.
It's good I have a short memory, I have hurt or blown way too many.
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