SG profile ignition switch lock cylinder.

[3foldfolly]

I want to re-key the lock tumblers in my ignition lock cylinder to match my NOS outer door handle Huf key. Is this possible or would it be easier to re-key the door lock cylinder?

[Bruce]

It is most likely easier to rekey the ignition switch. If you have a relatively rare Bosch switch, you can't take it apart. Another reason to do the switch is to clean out the last 50 years of gunk so it works smoothly.
Post a pic of your ignition switch.
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[3foldfolly]

Thanks Bruce, I'll try and get out there tomorrow night or Tuesday and take it out to get a pic.

[slow36hp]

it is wayy easier to rekey a door vs ignition
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1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656

1958 deluxe Parts needed
1 rear hatch
2 rear pressed bumper trim
3 locking t handle
4 safaris
5 front hurst

[Bruce]

[GLHTurbo]

I'm very interested about rekeying both the handles and ignition...some detailed pics and instructions would be much appreciated!
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I bring nothing to the table.

1956 Beetle
1967 T2 Panel/Homebrew Camper

[Bruce]

Here's an oval's ignition switch:



The lock cylinder of an oval window's ignition switch is held in place with the small wire clip. Groove for clip is indicated.



Although this is a 56-59 handle, the earlier handle comes apart the same. You have to remove the tiny grub screw in this hole. On most handles, there's a centerpunch mark just beside the top of the hole to lock the set screw in place. Sometimes it is impossible to get the screw out without destroying it's slot.
Once you get them apart, wash the gunk off with solvent or brake-clean. Mix the wafers around until they are flush with the OD of the lock cylinder when the key is in the cylinder. If you think you can just mix them around and be done, it's not that simple. You will be left with some wafers that are the wrong size, and in need of others you don't have. That is why it's a good idea to collect broken handles to get parts from.
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[slow36hp]

[Bruce]

[slow36hp]

i normally use a dental pick with sucess however just two nights ago i had one that just wouldnt come off. admittedly someone had forced the cylinder with a screwdiver (instead of using a key). all said either way is not very hard i just seem to find it easier to go after door handles.

in a pinch with limited tumbler selection you can always tune them with a file to work
_________________
1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656

1958 deluxe Parts needed
1 rear hatch
2 rear pressed bumper trim
3 locking t handle
4 safaris
5 front hurst

[GLHTurbo]

great info guys, thanks. Any pics of the actual key matching process?

Will the guts of a 64ish door handle set work for spare parts?

Also, can you do this to a T-handle as well?
_________________
I bring nothing to the table.

1956 Beetle
1967 T2 Panel/Homebrew Camper

[slow36hp]

yes on parts and t handle no on fitting pictures
_________________
1958 custom camper
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483656

1958 deluxe Parts needed
1 rear hatch
2 rear pressed bumper trim
3 locking t handle
4 safaris
5 front hurst

[Bruce]

[bloogy]

Here is the riveted style dis assembly. More work, you have to gently separate the rear as a whole assembly prying up on the crimps. then you can remove the assembly which easily separates into two pieces. Remove the pin and wedge and the lock cylinder comes out. Make sure to have the key in place to prevent the tumblers and springs from flying.