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60vwnewengland
Twin #2
Joined: June 25, 2003
Posts: 1784
Location: District of Columbia & Cape Cod
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 Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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| KevinAlbrecht wrote: |
| Yeah, my plan to replace the front and middle. I don't have the motivation to drop the engine and transmission to do the rear. |
Super easy job. I forgot to instal the main shift rod when I installed a transmission. For other reasons it was the third time I had to drop the transmission. 2hrs later, wheels up, drop trans, install rod with new bushing, install trans, re-connect spring plates, wheels down. I became a pro in a weekend. Never be afraid to tackle this job. I suggest and recommend buying new spring plate bolts when doing this job - 12x1.5 25mm or longer, you'll need 8.
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77 Westy - Cape Cod Sage
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offshores
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2012
Posts: 1085
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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I've got a '66 and now the shifter rotates clockwise when I shift from 3rd to 4th gear. The ball and pin at the end of the gearshift lever comes out of the socket of the shift rod. I double checked and I have the correct shifter for the '66.
Mine is just like the one on the right. Any ideas? Thanks
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 7:44 am Post subject: |
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| offshores wrote: |
I've got a '66 and now the shifter rotates clockwise when I shift from 3rd to 4th gear. The ball and pin at the end of the gearshift lever comes out of the socket of the shift rod. I double checked and I have the correct shifter for the '66.
Mine is just like the one on the right. Any ideas? Thanks
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There is a thread on this issue covered in more detail in the bay forum.
Possible things to check/adjust
1. Re adjust shifter and stop plate per service manual specs.
2. Inspect to see if the front shift rod bushing is worn
3. inspect to see it mount holding front shift rod grommet is worn: hole enlimgated. Maybe need a new mount.
4. Inspect to see how worn the slot and cup is on the front shift rod.if excessive worn is evedent replacement may be advised.
5. Inspect shifter and base plate for excessive wear.
6. Inspect floor where the shifter base plate mounts. If the floor is crowning it could affect how deep the shifter rest in the cup of shift rod.
My suggestion is check stop plate and shifter adjustment and condition of bushing before you get to deep.
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offshores
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2012
Posts: 1085
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 10:02 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the response. I figured after no responses and after reading through a bunch of stuff it could only be so many things and I was on my own. So, I stopped at WW on Friday and picked up a new front shift rod, stop plate, front bushing (mine is a ’66 Bus with the post that slides into front of shift rod) the 2 other “birdie” bushings and the 2 boots.
Friday evening I decided to replace those things minus 1 birdie bushing and rear boot. Not dropping motor and trans so those 2 things will have to wait. The screw head was already sheared off of coupler so I drilled a hole and used an extractor bit to get the screw out then had to cut a section out of the coupler to get it to budge. That was fun. I installed the new parts and still had the same issue. I’ve used the put stick shift in 2nd gear method and tighten with success in my Bugs and also read that it works well with Buses too. I ended up having to move the stop plate forward and it seems to have solved the issue, but it still seems a bit loose. I’ll check for crowning, but didn’t notice it. I did notice that maybe the front bracket with the post on it looked like it was possibly bent forward just a bit. I’m not sure if the post is supposed to be parallel to the ground or be angled just slightly. If the bracket is bent forward it’s only just a little bit. I thought about giving it some taps with a hammer bought thought otherwise in fear that I might not be able to remove the front shift rod. Anyways, it doesn’t rotate now. |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 11:15 am Post subject: |
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| offshores wrote: |
Thanks for the response. I figured after no responses and after reading through a bunch of stuff it could only be so many things and I was on my own. So, I stopped at WW on Friday and picked up a new front shift rod, stop plate, front bushing (mine is a ’66 Bus with the post that slides into front of shift rod) the 2 other “birdie” bushings and the 2 boots.
Friday evening I decided to replace those things minus 1 birdie bushing and rear boot. Not dropping motor and trans so those 2 things will have to wait. The screw head was already sheared off of coupler so I drilled a hole and used an extractor bit to get the screw out then had to cut a section out of the coupler to get it to budge. That was fun. I installed the new parts and still had the same issue. I’ve used the put stick shift in 2nd gear method and tighten with success in my Bugs and also read that it works well with Buses too. I ended up having to move the stop plate forward and it seems to have solved the issue, but it still seems a bit loose. I’ll check for crowning, but didn’t notice it. I did notice that maybe the front bracket with the post on it looked like it was possibly bent forward just a bit. I’m not sure if the post is supposed to be parallel to the ground or be angled just slightly. If the bracket is bent forward it’s only just a little bit. I thought about giving it some taps with a hammer bought thought otherwise in fear that I might not be able to remove the front shift rod. Anyways, it doesn’t rotate now. |
I'm unfamiliar with your year but bays that have the post that the front of shift rod goes into sometimes gets bent down a little. Usually a slight adjustment to make this post straight helps the issue you describe. I had the issue on a 71?bay and the stop plate adjustment helped.
Pulling the shift rod coupler that is rusted on can be a bitch. Heat followed by cold water repeated a few times usually will make for a easier job removing this.
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offshores
Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2012
Posts: 1085
Location: So Cal
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| Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 6:46 pm Post subject: |
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Just took it for a spin and finding 2nd is a little tough, but not too bad. I need to fine tune the stop plate a bit and maybe I'll bend that bracket back a hair. I'll search the Bay forum also.
Thanks for the tips. |
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Clara 
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2003
Posts: 12399
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| Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 8:20 am Post subject: |
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| offshores wrote: |
I did notice that maybe the front bracket with the post on it looked like it was possibly bent forward just a bit. I’m not sure if the post is supposed to be parallel to the ground or be angled just slightly. If the bracket is bent forward it’s only just a little bit. I thought about giving it some taps with a hammer bought thought otherwise in fear that I might not be able to remove the front shift rod. Anyways, it doesn’t rotate now. |
IIRC the post should be parallel to the ground. |
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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| bill may wrote: |
1960-67 has the pin with spring you are talking about-is it a 60-> bus? if so you can get the pin assembly from a 56-> beetle,type 3,or 60-> bus.
lay ball on partially open vise to let ball end of pin,with pin sticking upwards,hit end of pin with hammer to remove.
place pin assembly in bus handle and have pin facing downwards. use hammer to tap downwards until pin with spring is driven in to place. peen near back as original to keep pin and spring in place.
reinstall shifthandle.
or buy another bus shifter handle with good pin. |
I need to understand this better. The pin coming out is one of the things that makes installing the shifter such a b*tch! I was just doing this job ten minutes ago..hate doing this. Are you saying the pin and spring are supposed to stay in place, and not fall out easily? The pin barely fits in it's groove as it is. I'm thinking if I peen (mushroom?) the end of the pin it'll never slide down into that groove. What am I missing here?
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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| KevinAlbrecht wrote: |
| Yeah, my plan to replace the front and middle. I don't have the motivation to drop the engine and transmission to do the rear. |
If you're talking about the "birdie" bushings in the center tube (under the cargo floor) there are only two. One is pretty close to the front and the other is about 2/3 of the way back. There isn't one at the end of the stick, even though non -engineer me thinks there should be . Guess the trans hold it steady enough back there?
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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| kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
| bill may wrote: |
1960-67 has the pin with spring you are talking about-is it a 60-> bus? if so you can get the pin assembly from a 56-> beetle,type 3,or 60-> bus.
lay ball on partially open vise to let ball end of pin,with pin sticking upwards,hit end of pin with hammer to remove.
place pin assembly in bus handle and have pin facing downwards. use hammer to tap downwards until pin with spring is driven in to place. peen near back as original to keep pin and spring in place.
reinstall shifthandle.
or buy another bus shifter handle with good pin. |
I need to understand this better. The pin coming out is one of the things that makes installing the shifter such a b*tch! I was just doing this job ten minutes ago..hate doing this. Are you saying the pin and spring are supposed to stay in place, and not fall out easily? The pin barely fits in it's groove as it is. I'm thinking if I peen (mushroom?) the end of the pin it'll never slide down into that groove. What am I missing here? |
You don't peen pin you peen around pin(shifter pin housing)so pin doesn't pop out. As you said if you peen the pin it will not be able to operate as intended.
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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Ahhhh... So after pin is in the ball, you peen the opening it went into to keep it from backing out?
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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| kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
| Ahhhh... So after pin is in the ball, you peen the opening it went into to keep it from backing out? |
Yep. There is a threa in bay forum on this. Check FAQ
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks.
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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| curtis4085 wrote: |
| kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
| Ahhhh... So after pin is in the ball, you peen the opening it went into to keep it from backing out? |
Yep. There is a threa in bay forum on this. Check FAQ |
Hmmmmm.... Don't see it.
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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curtis4085
Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2011
Posts: 4806
Location: Colorado
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:46 pm Post subject: |
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| kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
| curtis4085 wrote: |
| kenshapiro2002 wrote: |
| Ahhhh... So after pin is in the ball, you peen the opening it went into to keep it from backing out? |
Yep. There is a threa in bay forum on this. Check FAQ |
Hmmmmm.... Don't see it. |
I do not have time to do the searching for the thread but in this thread it how's picture of the factory peen/staking
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583515
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kenshapiro2002
Samba Member
Joined: April 26, 2013
Posts: 1826
Location: Bawlmer Hon
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| Posted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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Didn't want you to search the threads. You said it was in the FAQ. I don't think it is. Thanks. I'll search later.
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Looking for a correct 1967 rear seat
Looking for '67 Engine / Block HO 183xxx - HO 194xxx |
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chrisflstf
Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2004
Posts: 3438
Location: San Diego
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Clara
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2003
Posts: 12399
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| Posted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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| curtis4085 wrote: |
You don't peen pin you peen around pin so pin doesn't pop out.
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say that ten times fast
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Longboardluv
Samba Member
Joined: September 23, 2014
Posts: 934
Location: Austin TX
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| Posted: Mon May 09, 2016 6:39 am Post subject: |
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| EverettB wrote: |
Yes, you need to remove that coupler ring so you can slide the shift rod through the bushing.
If the screw unscrewed pretty easily and the rods already came apart you are probably in good shape, I would just soak in some rust breaker for a couple days or heat up and quench it with cold water and try to work it back and forth with a big pair of pliers until it comes off. |
I had to buy two actual pipe wrenches in order to do this. They bite really hard on each shaft allowing you to work them back and forth so they finally separate. |
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SamboSamba22
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Joined: August 06, 2015
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Location: Benton, Arkansas
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