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Final Factory Dual Carb Adjustment Procedure FAQ
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bwaz
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2015 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Final Factory Dual Carb Adjustment Procedure Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
bwaz wrote:
Any chance you could repost those missing images from your first post?
Great info, thanks


Check this page:

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7767

Perhaps a mod or Colin will edit the first post accordingly, since the picture links seem to be broken.


thanks for the link!
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airschooled
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Final Factory Dual Carb Adjustment Procedure Reply with quote

bwaz wrote:
Any chance you could repost those missing images from your first post?
Great info, thanks


Check this page:

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7767

Perhaps a mod or Colin will edit the first post accordingly, since the picture links seem to be broken.
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bwaz
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 11:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Final Factory Dual Carb Adjustment Procedure Reply with quote

Any chance you could repost those missing images from your first post?
Great info, thanks
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sparky892
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:

As parts dry up, we will need to exercise ever-greater creativity to achieve anything like the driveability of the original engineering. It can be done.
Colin


Colin, would you recommend that I replace the weber's that I have back to the originals?
I have a 72 Westy 1.7 with weber ict and can not get them to co-operate with each other..
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

korfmach wrote:

A) It might also be useful for the guide to specify that the procedure applies to Buses with an OEM (DVDA) distributor. If your Bus is cursed with a 009, you're kinda on your own.

B) The intake hose mentioned in Colin's spiel on emissions controls is missing from every '72-'74 Bus I've seen. I don't know how critical it really is for the engine



A) 009 can work, but I am not going to provide the work around solutions for an 009, it would make mincemeat of the already hard-to-discern logic behind these carburetors.

SVDA can work, too. Like the 009, without a retard at idle, you have to choke off the central idling circuit to get a decent idle. Then you have a poor transition to the main carbs off idle, etc.

B) That hose is the cool air supply. It is not emissions related. I do recommend that we pony up for a hose that can reach the right side scoop area.

As parts dry up, we will need to exercise ever-greater creativity to achieve anything like the driveability of the original engineering. It can be done.
Colin
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korfmach
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 12, 2015 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colin, thanks again for publishing this excellent guide. A couple of notes:

Some of the diagrams have vaporized; I managed to get by without them but reposting them would be beneficial, especially for those not yet familiar with the nomenclature.

It might also be useful for the guide to specify that the procedure applies to Buses with an OEM (DVDA) distributor. If your Bus is cursed with a 009, you're kinda on your own.

The intake hose mentioned in Colin's spiel on emissions controls is missing from every '72-'74 Bus I"ve seen. I don't know how critical it really is for the engine, but I've replaced mine. It is a 63mm (2.5 inch ID) hose about 80-90cm long and is secured with a hose clamp at the airbox inlet and two lugs on the engine compartment wall near the right elephant-ear.

A good-quality, two-layer neoprene replacement is available from Pegasus Racing (part # 3630-2.50-3FOOT) for about $20. I haven't been able to find the OEM paper hoses anywhere; they are a different size than the common heater hoses.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We are going to need a few more pics of those carbs, they don't look factory from here.

Here's Colin's hookup info, send him a PM: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1248631
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 29, 2015 3:35 pm    Post subject: Carbs Reply with quote

Amskeptic wrote:
DaddyNeutron wrote:
Great Post, have a 72 T2 with dual Solex that my Son and I are reviving. Hasn't run in many years... working our way through the usual. We are up to tuning and syncing... your timing is perfect!!
Thanks


Keep me posted on how it goes and if you have any utter confusion moments as you go through the procedure. I do perform house calls.
Colin


My daughter and I are trying to get our 72 westy running and these carbs are not co-operating. The right bank seems to be weak, pulled the plug wires off idle reduces some but not as much as when we pull the left wires.
You made a committed that you make house calls, We sure could use a lesson how to do this procedure.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:48 am    Post subject: Re: Missing Graphics? Reply with quote

wdollie6 wrote:
Is it only me or have the graphics disappeared from the original post. I am at the point of synching my "dual carbs" was hoping to utilize this outstanding post as a guide.

Can anyone help as my browser is showing an [x] where the pictorials should be.


http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7767
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 16, 2015 8:26 am    Post subject: Missing Graphics? Reply with quote

Is it only me or have the graphics disappeared from the original post. I am at the point of synching my "dual carbs" was hoping to utilize this outstanding post as a guide.

Can anyone help as my browser is showing an [x] where the pictorials should be.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 23, 2013 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi - crossed the country in a 1972 with duel carbs in 1987. What an amazing nicely illustrated post! I really enjoyed it and am stoked these kinds of resources are here for some of us mere mortals.... carry on, Colin!
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 20, 2013 11:48 am    Post subject: dual Solex carb adjustments Reply with quote

Now...How does having a 009 distributor in this same engine configuration throw a wrench in this scenario? My Brother just bought a 1974 Rivera with a rebuilt 1800 (probably 1835), same carburetion and a 009 distributor best I can tell (no vacuum pot), no vacuum connections. BTW, it is definitely a type 4 engine. Seems to run ok but I know it will need adjustments eventually! Just checking. Thanks.
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yellowdcap74
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That fan that is shown on Diagram 3, chokes etc...

I know this is unrelated, but what is the name of this fan, what is its purpose, and where can I get the tubes that go to and from it to the heat exhangers.

Thank you,

John Smile
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yellowdcap74
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2012 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That fan that is shown on Diagram 3, chokes etc...

I know this is unrelated, but what is the name of this fan, what is its purpose, and where can I get the tubes that go to and from it to the heat exhangers.

Thank you,

John Smile
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eddyvdw
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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 1:24 pm    Post subject: Synchronizing CO left and right Reply with quote

First of all, awesome post. It taught me all I wanted to know about dual carbs but was afraid to ask...


When synchronizing left and right (pull the solenoid left to check right and vv) my engine stumbles and finally stops. With both cabs on but idle solenoid off it runs nicely at 500 rpm. Is this too low?

Cheers,
Ed
(The Netherlands)
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:58 pm    Post subject: EGR n Spiderleg Question Reply with quote

I want to start by saying Thanks for taking your time to answer all of my questions.
a valued resource n great people,

Good Project. Gonna work it out tomorrow.

Thanks Again Friend
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can blank the EGR with fabbed plates, a gasket is nice but red or copper silicone works too, or even cork or paper, they don't get real hot with no EGR.
The afterburner ports in the heads can be plugged with 10mm valve adjuster screws or bolts.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:13 pm    Post subject: EgR n Spiderleg Question Reply with quote

Yes u have it now. i understand the need for the CIS pipe for idle circuit.
Yes u have it on the SDVA/EGR LH/RH control pipe. i need new gaskets or can blank off w fabed plates. Stil confused on the pipes running into tops of Heads? can i remove n cap /plug those off also?

i picked this bus up w half a smog n EGR system n right now just trying to get her running w no vac leaks. then build her back up.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If by "spiderleg" you mean the CIS pipe that connects between the CIS port on the LH carb and the bases of the 2 manifolds you still need that, you can delete the extra pipe that runs/ran rearwards to the afterburner pump but it'll be a pain to adjust the idle with the rest gone. As for extra ports on the carb the only one that comes to mind is the EGR control on the RH carb and the retard on the LH if you are running a SVDA. The rectangular EGR ports on the manifolds can be capped with blanking plates that you fabricate.

Sure you want to do all this? what if your local authorities decide everyone has to smog all of a sudden?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:19 pm    Post subject: EGR n Spiderleg Question Reply with quote

i have many ports or holes in the carb manifolds from the spiderleg used in the smog design on this 74 California Model .
my question is now that i have removed all of the pumps and filters that needed these connections i have the spiderleg closed off at points but would like to remove the spiderleg n fab my own straight across idle curcuit. Eliminating all the extra pipes n holes in my manifolds.
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