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How to change the front axle beam?
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binci
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: How to change the front axle beam? Reply with quote

Hi everyone!

I'm not too good in mechanics, but I would like to learn to repair my beetle. Now I will have to change the original front axle beam to a narrowed one.

Has anyone a pictorial - tutorial how to do this at home?

Thank you very much!
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drscope
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!

Don't forget the two top bolts under the gas tank.
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binci
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!


Yes, that's what I would like to see in pictures! Wink

I have many books, but it's only about engine repairing, not that type.
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slamadub
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Undo the steering coupler, undo the brake lines and take out the 4 bolts that hold it to the frame head.

Get a book! You need a book!


Or pull arms out of the beam so you dont have to mess with the brakes/spindles. If your going narrowed all you would have to do is install your new beam, insert the stock leaves, knock out your trailing arm torsion covers with a long screwdriver and install the trailing arms letting the stock lengh torsions pass through the arms. Now you can mark the torsions to the correct length to cut, and mark your new dimples through the stock trailing arm dimple hole. Make sure your have all bushings in place as if you were final assembling your new beam so you get accurate cut/dimple marks. This way has worked for me. I have never taken off my brake lines to uninstall/install a beam.
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the-jerm
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slamadubs method will work but I found that pulling the whole thing out is good for us first timers. This way allows you to get it up on a bench where you can get a better understanding of what you are doing without laying under the car. Its really an easy job. As stated before, disconnect brake lines, remove gas tank to gain access to the steering coupling, disconnect steering coupling, remove the two bolts directly above the beam (Located inside where your brake fluid res is.), support the beam, and remove the four large bolts on the front of the beam. Those four bolts can be a pain in the ass if its never been removed before. Invest in some penetrating lubricant!

Hope that helps.
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schunacher
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been messing around with my front end (haven't removed it though) and it is surprisingly simple. If you don't have access to books I think you could get away with just undoing the bolts you think are in the way!

Be careful with brake lines and use the correct bolts and fasteners though. You can't go wrong in the garage but you certainly could go wrong if it falls apart driving down the road.
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63brew
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help
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binci
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

63brew wrote:
http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help


Thank's everybody!
That was I looking for!
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drscope
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a tip that might help you guys who have your beams out.

The beam can be EASILY adapted to most engine stands. So if you have one of those cheap roll around stands like harbor freight or some auto parts stores sell, bolt it up on the stand.

It makes it a lot easier to deal with.
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the-jerm
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats a damn good idea! I never thought about that.
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SKIN
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

63brew wrote:
http://www.cbperformance.com/Feb2004a.asp

this might help


That helped me too. I got all of the bolts undone, but didn't know how I was going to get them back in. I guess I should have removed the gas tank. I will be doing that tomorrow.
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Helfen
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey 63brew, Nice picture of the wedge you've got there. Been there and done that many a time! I guess location 562 is Newport. At first I thought it was my old distributor lic. plate #.

Don
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BUGTHUG
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 10:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

drscope wrote:
Here's a tip that might help you guys who have your beams out.

The beam can be EASILY adapted to most engine stands. So if you have one of those cheap roll around stands like harbor freight or some auto parts stores sell, bolt it up on the stand.

It makes it a lot easier to deal with.

Plus you can put a trash can under the beam when in the verticle position to spay cleaners or solvents to get all that nasty grease out. Worked for me.
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