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vwfye
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Mike Fisher
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 Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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My FI is running, but Not Good! I'm Almost ready to put Solex's on it. 
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KTPhil
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Fuel filter clogged? Loose wire? |
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vwfye
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nodrenim
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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| I had a similar problem on a type 4 a few years ago, turned out to be a loose connection on an injector. |
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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Wait a second......so you have spark and fuel pressure? Check the trigger points. Do you have points or pertronix?
In general D-jet EFI parts do not go from normal...slowly.... to not working. Either you fuel mixture has slowly been getting further off track (usually either fuel pressure dropping due to clogs or vacuum leaks going from small to large or grounds slowly degrading).
Check the trigger points and plug
Check fuel volume not just pressure
Check that the mps holds vacuum.
Check voltage to the system.
Ray |
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vwfye
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2010 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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DOH!....Sorry forgot.
Hmmmm. It still sounds like a developing vacuum leak. Yes, you can simply bypass the cold start valve like you suggested. Also...what is the outside temperature there?
It could also be resistor packs starting to go. Go ahead and recheck the CHT hot and cold. What is the fuel pressure at idle? Ray |
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19super73
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Any updates on what you found? I assume you fixed the issue as the car is up for sale. I am going to be tackling my engine issues this spring after avoiding the car since it's purchase. Any info would be great.
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| Glenn wrote: | | Only a hack would have to take the rear apron off to remove a stock engine. |
| JerryMCarter1 wrote: | If it is something just stuck eventually it will wear down and go away.
Run it for awhile and see if it gets quieter |
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vwfye
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vwfye
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Bill12
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| Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 8:30 pm Post subject: Have you seen this?? |
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http://manuals.type4.org/ljet/
Have you pulled the left fuel rail test screw and just tried a hose and a jar time flow test? Did you do the pull the connectors and reconnect all connections? You could try the basic starter fluid sprayed in one of the breather lines and a turn it over with a hand starter switch to see if you get fuel crank? Throttle open of coarse... Did you do the visual inspection of the fuel pump relay? Mine is under the dash near in the middle but a I thought the wagen was under the seat or engine bay.... Did you do the basic ign wire test with a spare spark plug and a ground wire to see if you are getting spark? Also did you check the ign points for the cam rider piece that likes to break and then you don't get a open close of the points.. That stopped me once!! Got the Blue Streaks the don't have the cardboardie cam rider...WHat about the condenser?? |
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 6:23 am Post subject: |
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| vwfye wrote: | | what should the cranking pressure be and also, if i dead head the pump, what pressures should i see? |
First...DO NOT...dead head the pump. You can see pressures from 60-80 psi. It usually will do one of two things...(a) blow afuel line off (b) blow a seal on the pump (c) ruin the diaphram in the regulator.....sorry that was three things.
If the flap in the AFM is moving when you are cranking...then the pump should be on. Since you have low or no vacuum when cranking, the fuel pressure should be high like 36 psi.
The first thing to do....is to run hot and cold jumper wires to the pump from the battery. Verify that the pump is capable of max psi with engine off. Then with all fuel disconnected.....get a spare spark plug, connect to a lead and verify that you have spark.
If you have fuel pressure and spark, either the pump will not run when the flap is moving or you are not injecting when turning over.
To verify this, pull the HT lead from the center of the coil and remove it from the car. Pull one injector and dangle it in a small cup. Have someonw crank while you verify injection. Ray |
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vwfye
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Plumcrazee
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 2:31 pm Post subject: |
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mmmm twin kadrons mmmmmm sweet as lol  |
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vwfye
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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| vwfye wrote: | | i have spark, the AFM is working, thegrounds are re grounded and in some places double grounded. the trans strap is good. there is an extra engine to ground strap. i have traced every line for vac i can find with no leaks detected and the battery is fresh. i've tried 2 distributors, done a tune up and the fuel pump relay has been bypassed. this has lead me to believe it is a fuel delivery issue. |
I'm thinking,......oh....have you checked the CHT? That can cause this issue. Also check its wire all the way back to the ECU for continuity.
Also....and since yours is latest model L-jet and also has all of those functions, look closely at the seat belt alarm hook-ups and relay and also neutral position switch on the shifter. If any of these are out of whack....technically it should not crank, but there may be more mysteries than meet the eye.
Let me look at my wiring diagrams tonight. Don't give up yet. Kadrons have no place on a 412. Ray |
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vwfye
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Bill12
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| Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Did you put back in the original dist.? I wouldn't change anything too much! You need to just check all specs first and check for the basics. Fuel, fire, timing, air. Did you do the fuel rail left line tee test line and jar to test the volumn of fuel flow? I think it is funny you started with a miss then total falure to start. You could pull a fuel injector and put it in a jar and turn over the car to see the spray and volume Did you look at the wires attached to the starter? The white ones? I wonder like Ray was saying about safety system ground stuff, did you try starting neutral? I think you have to do all the component test then pull the injectors and do the spray test and volume. Then static time by setting to TDC and turning the dist and test light till the points open. Set to basic gap too. Can you tell us again what you have tested and what does happen IE. The car turns over, lights come on, head lights, gauges. On my Djet you can hear the injectors firing with the key in the on pos. by pressing the pedal.. Sorry to ask too much! Good luck! Sorry you're having this issue! Make sure the stuff you replace with is tested and not adding a new issue... |
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raygreenwood
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| Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 9:01 am Post subject: |
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I know you said you have spark. That is test at the plug right? Also, just for the heck of it....pull the plug from the AFM and try to start it.
So you have already jumpered the fuel pump to run straight from battery so you know that it runs. I'm assuming you are seeing about what...36 psi at the rail with the engine off and the pump running.
The car cranks right? So just try this.....loosen teh distributor clank and advance the distributor (turn counter clockwise) about 1/2" as measured at the outer rim of the dizzy. What I am checking for is that excessive advance might be showing a weak spark. It it sputters and tries to run you are on the right track.
I have also seen....only once....where a missing or broken tension spring under the distributor drive allowed the dizzy drive dog to slip and it was way out of time.
Also....and if you have spark at the plugs this is a moot point...check the ground between rotor and shaft. A rusty shaft can do this.
Its also possible that you have a burned set of contacts in the relay supplying the ECU. It can give intermittent contact (your original problem)...and eventually carbonize enough to stop running.....or there could be water or moisture inside the relays.
Also check the ground braid on the breaker plate in the dizzy. That gives an intermittent miss as its wearing through. Once it breaks ground when the breaker plate moves when its pulled on by the advace unit...it shorts. Ray |
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