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Spring Plate Angle/Torsion Bar Adjustment (Pics Added)
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tkolbo
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheating? I call it valuing my spare time. Just jack it up. Insert 1/4 hex. Turn screw to desired height. Lower jack. Presto, ride height is changed. No protractor or rocket science involved.

You have witnessed the evolution of man and his bus.

Time to drive.

Tyler
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 05, 2013 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tkolbo wrote:
Cheating? I call it valuing my spare time. Just jack it up. Insert 1/4 hex. Turn screw to desired height. Lower jack. Presto, ride height is changed. No protractor or rocket science involved.

You have witnessed the evolution of man and his bus.

Time to drive.

Tyler


i gotta get me some of those.... Think Pray

got pics of the bus after the lift?
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tkolbo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stay tuned.................
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

trust me tho, those adjusters will not work in about 2 months time. the threads get all fudged up, can't handle the weight. Consider them one time use, seeing as how all the bug sets I ahve ever heard of get ruined pretty quick, can't imagine a bus set will last any longer!

however, sitll kinda nice to have, would save you an evening of futzing around.
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tkolbo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We shall see I suppose.

Bus sits level.

Mission accomplished!

TK
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tkolbo wrote:
We shall see I suppose.

Bus sits level.

Mission accomplished!

TK


now for some bigger than stock tires so you can go offroad a bit ....right? Wink

those RA08's only go so far.....Razz
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tkolbo wrote:
We shall see I suppose.

Bus sits level.

Mission accomplished!

TK


wow. I wonder if a set is worthwhile? When I had the 1971 I feared doing that butt sag job cause it looked so complex. But when I actually did it on the 1977 I have it took me less than an hour and I replaced the rubber donuts at the same time. I've read over and over that the torsion bar takes a set after awhile and that once it does, the adjustment holds forever - or at least until the rubber goes bad again. For me it was like one notch on each end - one forward and one backwards and that set it perfect.
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tkolbo
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 06, 2013 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time will tell for mine I suppose. Either way you will have to remove the old plates, install the new. The initial install is the only time consuming part. After that, if adjustments are needed, jack er up, adjust screws, let er down, drive.

I am quite certain the claim of "cheater" comes from someone who had to remove and re-install the plates 3-4 times in order to get the height right.
I have 3 boys, 65hour a week job, rentals, very active wife. In other words, no time to dork around with a day full of adjustments and frustration.

tk
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a myriad of searches on here and parts houses, I can't find a number for the bushings. Any chance somebody has it, or knows where I can grab a new set.

That being said, are there any quality bushings available? Confused

EDIT: Made a phone call (imagine that!) and one 211-511-245 A is listed by BusDepot and German Supply, but a few local parts places say that there is a new number, 211-511-249 A.
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK honest question time:

What year did this cut out materialize? (blue circle, sorry for the picture stealing.) There is no cut out for the metal brake lines on my '69 and it rendered the job impossible. Well, I could get the spring plate off the torsion bar, but the ONLY way I could get the spring plate back on was with 0 net change (back to stock.) At least I got two new bushing for my drivers side… I am on hour 6 right now, and I just bolted it back together out of frustration. (I'm putting in a new MC and rubber brake lines next week when the parts get here, so I'll have my brake lines off then to do this job right.)


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that changed for the 70 model year, or thereabouts. My 70 had the notches, two 68's I've had did not. I just remove the brake line the first time I take that stuff apart, and use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make the notch. That is essentially what the newer plates look to have had done.
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tkolbo
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My plates had no notches. Removed brake lines to git r dun. Ground the notch out incase they are needed again.

Patience Grasshopper!

Tyler
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2013 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just happened upon this while searching the gallery for something else. I figured I would post it here for future reference.

This is what the early spring plate looks like without the notch cut for easy brake hard line removal.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Bansheelos
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yanked off the covers to my spring plates this is the driver side
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

and this is the pass.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now question, should I be worried that my pass side is not flush w/ the spring plate like the driver side is?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 09, 2013 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

strange. But there is no stop in teh back, iirc they just have an inchor two between em inside the tube, o someone just slidi t in a little too far and was too alzy to fix. I wouldn't worry, just fix it while you're there.
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pintail78
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't there an inner spring plate bushing too, I don't see any pics of it. Is it pretty forward to change that one too?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is an inner and an outer, if you take the plate off, its right there. piece of cake. just make sure you powder it up real nice with talcum powder. that squeak is SO annoying...
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea mine squeaks really bad right now, and has about 1/2" of sag as measured by the jackpoints.......looks like i'm going to be doing this soon. I was going to just use a floor jack to release the tension on the spring arm, seems like it should work....
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey one question, what are the best jack points? the torsion tube? or the frame in front of that?
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends- what kind of shape are they in and what are you doing? Torsion tube should be strongest for floorjack. It is cast steel, not sheet metal like the rest of the body. But it is suported by sheetmetal, so check it all. And using a piece of wood to spread the load is a good idea.
Edit- duh, forgot what thread was about, supporting the chassis farther back might help. Some have reported that supports too far forward will result in lifting whole body when jacking the arm up. Putting the jack and stands farther back will result more leverage at arm. I'd suggest using the rear engine bearers for stands, jack it at the center of torsion tube to lift whole Bus evenly,if you have full size floor jack, or sides abit at a time, raising stands as you go. Be careful, chock front wheels.
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