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Who's installed an 091 Transmission in an early Bay?
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bigbore
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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know why you would want to the 228 is right for a 2L stronger and cheeper to buy. It will all fit I have put them in earlier bus's no problem. if you cable adjustment is off then something is wrong with the clutch or the peddle system. what does the angle of the arm on the bell housing look like when you have it adjusted is it WAY forward I suspect it is. I bet that clutch is in bad shape. can you get a photo of the area where the cable hooks up to the trany? So we can see the setup.
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baylovr
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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the ideas. I can't seem to post pictures but as soon as I get my bus rolling I will take the time to figure it out??? I have taken them so I can. I will update with any thing I've learned (if it works)
I ended up swapping bell housing and drilling a hole in the shift rod to the recommended spot earlier. Seems to shift properly now where as before it was no good. Engine fired up tonight and tommorow night ill hook up the cv joints and test it out. Only can work on nights and weekends but the pressure is on. Plan on driving to bugarama in Sacramento this weekend.
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I took the rear shift rod out of my 76 and then I took the shift rod out of the 69. Someone shortened the 69 rod by cutting off the yoke end and re welding it back on. It is exactly the same length as the 76 rod, so I presume a previous owner had a 6 rib in this 69. Surprised Now all I need is this thing and a 3 rib bell housing.
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baylovr
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It works!!!! So here is how I got my 74 westy with a stock 5 rib(02) trans to change to a 6 rib(091).
First off I did try to just put the six rib in without mods and it did not work, it wouldn't go into all gears and made some rubbing noise when shifting?
So... to change a 5 rib to 6 in a 74 I first swapped the bellhousing, put my 5 rib on the six, not sure why except i think the clutch arm was at a different angle? This was also nice because i could use my 74 starter even though I had a 76 starter (different) that came with the 6 rib.
The second thing I did was take the shift rod out of the bus, there was a spot in the middle that it disconnected. At that spot I drilled a hole 10mm back making it shorter. I assume because the six rib is longer. I read this earlier (photo) on this thread (page 1?)
When hooking up the mustache bar I made sure it was set as far back as possible.
That did it!! I haven't driven to far yet but it goes in all gears real smooth.
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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Wed May 22, 2013 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is awesome, rock out! Cool
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1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
Touch Nicks Thing wrote:
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baylovr
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PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love the six rib trans! I have had three buses so far and put on many, many miles. My current 74 Ive had over ten years. Last weekend I put about 250 miles on it going to sac bugarama and it did great. It was a little different with the third and forth gear changes but third is for traffic, 40 to 50 and fourth is for speed 60 to 70. (I have a 2L) My last comment is the five rib was also great, I only changed because it needed rebuilt. My very last comment is I easily did 88 with the six rib, I only held back because it was a first trip but my 5 rib would not go much over 80(flat ground).
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ern
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, I'm in the process of swapping my 3 rib to a 6 rib transmission on my '68.
I've already replaced the swapped the bell housing and nose cone from the 3 to the 6.

I have three questions:

1- Do I have the swap the input shaft as well?

2- Can I cut down the existing 091 input shaft?

3 - Does drilling the shift rod 10mm back (like mentioned in earlier posts) help with this?

ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED. THANKS IN ADVANCE!
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3 - Does drilling the shift rod 10mm back (like mentioned in earlier posts) help with this?

Never heard of this. The reason you cut or change the input shaft is because if you don't it will bottom out inside the crank and push on it. This will eventually damage the thrust bearing and cause engine failure.
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rustbus
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
3 - Does drilling the shift rod 10mm back (like mentioned in earlier posts) help with this?

Never heard of this. The reason you cut or change the input shaft is because if you don't it will bottom out inside the crank and push on it. This will eventually damage the thrust bearing and cause engine failure.


The reason i effectively shortened the front shift rod by drilling a new hole 10mm forward was to ensure the cup of the front rod was in the factory location for the ball of the gearshift. I compared the front and rear shift rods of my '72/002 trans parts to the '79/091 and found the rear shift rods identical in length and the front rods 10mm different. Thus it was necessary to mimic the late rod length in order to have the gearshift position correctly. I havent had to deal with the early engine vs late input shaft so that wasnt a factor for my conversion.

I didnt dream up this rod difference on my own, i did see it mentioned here first and found it was true in my measuring - thus my shifter isnt hitting the e-brake handle or anything wierd like that.

Ern, what youre doing is different still than what i did in that you have an earlier bus without the rear trans mount carrier. Drilling a new set screw hole 10mm forward wont hurt much as you can always not use the hole, but i dont know what other variables youll need to consider with the 68 setup
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vdubwizard
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 12:48 am    Post subject: 091 6-rib swap from 002 3-rib and 4.89 R&P, (Transform) Reply with quote

Would like to know how the first and second gears worked when third was 40-50 and fourth is 60-70 (or so). How high is first and second? My 002 in the Baja Bug will run out of RPM @ about 75-80 (Probably nearing 5500-6000 rpm), so to cruise at 50-55 am winding engine about 4500! Don't need that on a 2332 with 11.1 to 1 CR! Thanks for any info. I do have most all parts for the swap to 6-rib. Was built by Transform back in 1996! I love the 3-rib with close gearing, hauls the mail! But, no much for any hwy. Wink G-Man
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nathansnathan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:15 am    Post subject: Re: 091 6-rib swap from 002 3-rib and 4.89 R&P, (Transfo Reply with quote

vdubwizard wrote:
Would like to know how the first and second gears worked when third was 40-50 and fourth is 60-70 (or so). How high is first and second? My 002 in the Baja Bug will run out of RPM @ about 75-80 (Probably nearing 5500-6000 rpm), so to cruise at 50-55 am winding engine about 4500! Don't need that on a 2332 with 11.1 to 1 CR! Thanks for any info. I do have most all parts for the swap to 6-rib. Was built by Transform back in 1996! I love the 3-rib with close gearing, hauls the mail! But, no much for any hwy. Wink G-Man


I put together this table from Ratwell's 091 gearing excell doc. The 091 values are from him, I modified it to get the 002 values. The values really aren't that different, only 8mph at 5000rpm is the biggest the change gets.

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Red Fau Veh
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2013 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my 6 rib with a 002 bell housing that I got from my local trans place. I asked for a later model bell with the guide for the release bearing and told them to refresh the bushings on the shaft for a ready to go unit and they got it to me next day for a reasonable fee. I then refreshed the seals and got the nose cone all rebushed upgraded to the steel shift ball on the hockey stick, and also put the older style mount on. It's ready now for my early bay.
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1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

working on getting the above trans installed into the GBWB and it appears to be too long.
as mentioned above it has 002 (T4) bellhousing.
it's a good 1" too long Exclamation
i tried to get some angles on the pics that illustrated what i am actually seeing:
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as you can see here the ears on the T4 bellhousing are up against the seal channel.
something not right Evil or Very Mad
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help from the bay brethren is always appreciated Smile
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babysnakes
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't say I know what I'm talking about here, but I'll be doing a similar conversion on my '69 SC. Question 1, is the T-4 002 bell housing as long as a T-1 002 bell housing. I also read the nosecone needs to be swapped, is this just for the front mount or is there a length issue there also. Between the 2 there might be an inch.
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borninabus
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

babysnakes wrote:
Question 1, is the T-4 002 bell housing as long as a T-1 002 bell housing. YES
I also read the nosecone needs to be swapped...Not necessarily...

there is some length difference between the two nosecones that will cause you to want to shorten the shift rod.
the 091 nosecone is a better design than the 002, IMO and i would use it over the the 002.

what we found is that the front mount we had was bent from a collision and was causing it to sit too far back:

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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, the bent mount was the cause of the problem then?

when you put in a good mount, you had enough room/everything fit correctly?
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
so, the bent mount was the cause of the problem then?

when you put in a good mount, you had enough room/everything fit correctly?

yes Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

borninabus wrote:
skills@eurocarsplus wrote:
so, the bent mount was the cause of the problem then?

when you put in a good mount, you had enough room/everything fit correctly?

yes Smile


Nice.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good to hear
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
[i]3 - The reason you cut or change the input shaft is because if you don't it will bottom out inside the crank and push on it. This will eventually damage the thrust bearing and cause engine failure.


Please clarify - does changing the input shaft for this conversion only matter for 091 matched with Type 1 engine? or will an 002 bellhousing on an 091 trans bottom out the longer input shaft in a Type4 engine too?

I've put a few hundred miles on a 2.0 type 4 matched with 002 bellhousing/starter/nosecone and 091 trans body on my 72 westy. Only change is the shifter is a bit closer to the seat. I assumed it'd either work or not, or is more long term damage the issue?

Thanks
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