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deusexmaxima
Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2010
Posts: 42
Location: Southern Cal
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 Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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| vwlover: Did you have to modify the booster or did it bolt right in? |
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vwlovr
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2006
Posts: 1122
Location: on the road
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| Posted: Tue Jun 08, 2010 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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i modified it per herman's specs. it was very easy to do. if you don't have a decent metric tap set they are well worth having.
he gave the specs for the total height of the clevis for proper adjustment but i measured my vw one from top to the mounting surface just in case my numbers didn't jive with his. |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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Hello!!!
I found a booster on a 318i from 1991, 34331157912 and the guy has another one 343311560166??? that's what the guy said on the phone.
According to what I've read the first numbers are matching on the first one listed,so it should be fine,right?
Anybody has anything to say to confirm or deny?? 
Thank you! |
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an86carrera
Samba Member
Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 293
Location: Bradenton, FL
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| Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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| j_dirge wrote: |
What is the function of the two shear bolts used to hold the stearing column in place?
(These must be removed to remove brackets over the booster.. part of this project)
Can these shear bolts be replaced with ordinary metric hardware to match that used at the upper brackets?
Bentley says drill out and replace with new.. I understand a pair of visegrips works, too.
But whats the point of using shear bolts here? |
They are there to assure that the proper torque is applied during installation so the column can collapse in a crash.
When the proper torque is applied at the factory or service department the head shear off and prevents over tightening.
I have not checked but is there a torque value in Bentley's.
_________________
Len
Current Vehicles
'84 Westy '95 2.2 Subaru
'08 Dodge 2500 diesel
'75 914 |
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ragnarhairybreeks
Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2009
Posts: 1890
Location: Sidney B.C. Canada
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| Posted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 8:13 pm Post subject: |
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| an86carrera wrote: |
| j_dirge wrote: |
What is the function of the two shear bolts used to hold the stearing column in place?
(These must be removed to remove brackets over the booster.. part of this project)
Can these shear bolts be replaced with ordinary metric hardware to match that used at the upper brackets?
Bentley says drill out and replace with new.. I understand a pair of visegrips works, too.
But whats the point of using shear bolts here? |
They are there to assure that the proper torque is applied during installation so the column can collapse in a crash.
When the proper torque is applied at the factory or service department the head shear off and prevents over tightening.
I have not checked but is there a torque value in Bentley's. |
Just exactly how does that work? There does not seem to be much of a slot where the shear bolts go to allow column to collapse. I'm just wondering 
No torque value given in Bentley, just instruction to tighten until bolt shears. If it indeed is to assure proper torque during factory build and service then its must be only "proper toque required" assembly on the van that uses this method.
Some folk have opined that it is more of a theft deterrent ploy.
I have spare shear bolts, but used regular bolts when I took dash off and had to move steering column.
alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com |
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an86carrera
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Joined: May 09, 2007
Posts: 293
Location: Bradenton, FL
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| Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:37 am Post subject: |
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That could be true about the theft deterrent purpose. I know that BMW had them too in the 80s (maybe still?) but their purpose was safety. The BMWs had slots and honestly I have not looked at a vanagon example.
I can be wrong.
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Len
Current Vehicles
'84 Westy '95 2.2 Subaru
'08 Dodge 2500 diesel
'75 914 |
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vwlovr
Samba Member
Joined: May 21, 2006
Posts: 1122
Location: on the road
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| Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
Hello!!!
I found a booster on a 318i from 1991, 34331157912 and the guy has another one 343311560166??? that's what the guy said on the phone.
According to what I've read the first numbers are matching on the first one listed,so it should be fine,right?
Anybody has anything to say to confirm or deny??
Thank you! |
i can't confirm exactly, but i think 34331157912 will work. i think the first 8 numbers are the important part. mine only matched the first 8 numbers and it worked fine. |
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| vwlovr wrote: |
| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
Hello!!!
I found a booster on a 318i from 1991, 34331157912 and the guy has another one 343311560166??? that's what the guy said on the phone.
According to what I've read the first numbers are matching on the first one listed, so it should be fine, right?
Anybody has anything to say to confirm or deny??
Thank you! |
i can't confirm exactly, but i think 34331157912 will work. i think the first 8 numbers are the important part. mine only matched the first 8 numbers and it worked fine. |
Likewise, mine carried the part number 34 3311 57 416. I purchase two of these with that part same number (at the same time) and they were not identical, but both fit this VW application.
You can inquire thru a BMW parts place and ask what ATE brake booster part nos are compatible for those 3 series..
Mine required some bending of brake lines at the master cylinder to allow the steering column brackets to bolt down without modification.. which, in turn, is necessary to allow the instrument console to fit properly.
Nice uprgade, BTW. Very happy with mine in tandem with the the G60 Audi brakes.
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:40 am Post subject: |
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thank you.
seller flaked...  |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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BMW E30 brake booster on the left,34331157911,Vanagon model on the right.
I'll use the "clevis?"from the clutch side,same VW part number anyway:211 721 213D,to drill and tap it @M10x1.5.
Vanagon left,BMW E30 right
Original vanagon,taken on picture to compare and take measurements just in case....prevention!!
The big one mounted on a vanagon bracket to prevent any further surprises....It looks like it's gonna be tight!!,Diameter is about 20mm bigger,but the can lip is 45mm far from the bracket , about 20mm on the vanagon.That should back up the master cylinder 5mm,corresponding to the overall different thickness. |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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pulling out dashboard:20 minutes
I disconnected the sterring column
No need to pull out hydraulic lines or the pedal assembly out:good news
Drill and tapped the U clevis from vanagon from M9x1.00 to M10x1.5
I cut 5 threads and screwed the clevis all the way with no counter nut,but well tight!
put together,with a new SS cotter pin
That fits tight with heater block and air duct
Upper bolts are now harder to reach
I've put the steering column brackets to adjust the upper bolts,then remove the steering column again before putting the dashboard back
I had to bend a little bit that line,and wrap some rubber around to prevent wearing with vibrations.
I've put the vanagon rubber grommet for vaccuum,it fits tighter
Start vehicule with pedal pressed:it works:good to go 
Some cleaning,fixing electrical wiring,heater cables and other surprises:6 hours of work  |
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nod7
Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2010
Posts: 160
Location: Seattle
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| Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Nice work, This is a great upgrade. So far, this is the only brake modification I have done. I let a mechanic buddy of mine who works on Vanagons drive my van and he was somewhat shocked by the braking power it has. |
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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I actually run original brakes for now,it feels more spongy but it bites harder in fact:I feel like they are better brakes almost  |
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j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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| ALIKA T3 wrote: |
| I feel like they are better brakes almost |
Woohoo! 20 minutes to pull the dash?
"Better brakes"
That is an observation echoed by the individual who shared this mod with me before this thread appeared.
He said the larger booster actually gave him a better pedal feel, though.
FWIW, I had some spongeyness when I first installed mine, but that went away. The pedal is firm and predictable now. (I bled some residual air out after initial flush and bleed.. and of course my new brakes took some time to bed in.)
I kinda wished I'd done the booster mod with the stock brakes first, to see how much difference there was.
But I did my booster in tandem with the front G60s... and wow. The van stops.
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
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ALIKA T3
Samba Member
Joined: July 30, 2009
Posts: 6351
Location: Honolulu,Hawaii and France
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| Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 8:06 pm Post subject: |
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Hello!!
yes 20 minutes
I stripped several vans,once you know where to go to find screws,and in which order,it goes fast.
I still don't know why the screws on the posts are different than european models....
mine is spongey too,but not because of the bleeding though:too much assistance I guess
I can wait to put the jaguar calipers on the front,but I injured myself pretty bad yesterday at work....
bye |
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Stephen Greece
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2010
Posts: 1
Location: Salonico Grecia
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| Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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Hi!
I am going to swap to a TDI soon and was thinking about the sliding caliper mod, so i don't mind swapping the booster.
Didi you use the original brake cylinder? I am also looking for a way to either swap or relocate the brake cylinder so i can fit the TDI instrument cluster out of the Golf (rabbit). Any advice or ideas? |
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furrylittleotter
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2008
Posts: 1506
Location: West Seattle
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| Posted: Sat Dec 18, 2010 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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I think I will just make my brake pedal 1.5 inches longer. Should have the same effect. Just kidding. Thanks for the write up and pictures. You are an innovator, I am just an imitator. Hope to do this mod in the future.
Neil |
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Perpel
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2010
Posts: 13
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| Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 10:39 pm Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
I missed the boat on this one.
I have used a larger master cylinder, not booster.
The system was larger up front and disc in rear.
I did all new plumbing.
The part I used was from a Eurospec car that needed a small mod.
My bad.
dylan |
Hi insyncro et al.
Can you share the part number on the bigger master cylinder? I'm surprised no one else is going for this option.
I've just installed the g60 big brakes on my 2wd westy. After about 300 miles the pedal force required to slow the van down is ok, maybe even on the light side. But, I'm most disappointed with the increased pedal travel required to decelerate the van. It feels like 3 inches before the pads really bite into the discs, and then it's too spongy. I've had them professionally bled.
In contrast, I've driven a syncro with the south african big brakes and the throw is shorter to get a bite on the discs. Once there, force required is acceptable and it's very solid...no sponginess. Of course they may not be as powerful as the g60s at slowing down a vanagon.
BUT I a bigger master cylinder seems the best set-up with the g60s. |
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presslab
Samba Member
Joined: September 29, 2008
Posts: 1730
Location: Sonoma County
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 7:20 am Post subject: |
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| Perpel wrote: |
But, I'm most disappointed with the increased pedal travel required to decelerate the van. It feels like 3 inches before the pads really bite into the discs, and then it's too spongy. I've had them professionally bled.
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My van with G60 fronts and stock rear drum (LT40 slaves) has a very firm pedal with the stock MC and booster; better than stock. The brakes engage after only an inch or so of pedal travel.
Maybe something else is wrong. Have you replaced all the soft lines? If you pull the handbrake a bit before pushing the pedal does the softness go away? How did it feel before the G60 upgrade?
_________________
1986 Vanagon Westfalia EJ25
1988 Subaru GL-10 EJ20G --- 2000 Honda XR650L
2010 Titus El Guapo --- 2011 On-One 456 Ti |
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 7:23 am Post subject: |
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| Perpel wrote: |
| insyncro wrote: |
I missed the boat on this one.
I have used a larger master cylinder, not booster.
The system was larger up front and disc in rear.
I did all new plumbing.
The part I used was from a Eurospec car that needed a small mod.
My bad.
dylan |
Hi insyncro et al.
Can you share the part number on the bigger master cylinder? I'm surprised no one else is going for this option.
I've just installed the g60 big brakes on my 2wd westy. After about 300 miles the pedal force required to slow the van down is ok, maybe even on the light side. But, I'm most disappointed with the increased pedal travel required to decelerate the van. It feels like 3 inches before the pads really bite into the discs, and then it's too spongy. I've had them professionally bled.
In contrast, I've driven a syncro with the south african big brakes and the throw is shorter to get a bite on the discs. Once there, force required is acceptable and it's very solid...no sponginess. Of course they may not be as powerful as the g60s at slowing down a vanagon.
BUT I a bigger master cylinder seems the best set-up with the g60s. |
Tried it...no reason for a larger master.
I do like the BMW booster when building a larger diameter brake package. |
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