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Ignition coil wiring problems
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:46 pm    Post subject: Ignition coil wiring problems Reply with quote

My bug cought fire a few months back. cooked a few of the wires just got all them replaced. im sure i wiried it right on the ignition coil. soon as i truned the car on and my friend told to shut it off. he saw smoke coming from the distirbutor wire and the distirbutor its self. looked at another post saying i might have fried the points? need help gitting it rewired to the coil. is a 74 SB.

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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, you re-wired it so I need to guess a little. It looks like the green wire is the one that leads to the distributor, that should be on the coil negative side (terminal 1). No other wires attach here, the others all go to coil positive side (terminal 15); that includes the wire that comes from the side harness (ignition switch), the wires that go to electromagnetic pilot jet and choke heater on the carb, and the wire with the in-line fuse that goes to the back-up light switch. So get the red-double wire with the yellow band over to the positive side (left in the photo). I can see the + and - in your photo.
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool that worked!! thank you!! its truning over but its not gitting any fuel to the carb. just put in a new fuel pump. the red wire in the new pics are the same not sure if the 1 gitting split goes some where else. the guy at the vw shop is the 1 who set me up with the wire and said thats what i needed. some of the wires where broken off after the fire so its was hard to back track em.

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69 Jim
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tachometer wire also goes to the negative side if you are running one.
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kyle_pc_75
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That "split" wire...one side goes to the choke like you have it, the other to the idle cutoff solenoid on the carb. That's why you're getting no fuel.

Kyle
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69 Jim
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kyle_pc_75 wrote:
That "split" wire...one side goes to the choke like you have it, the other to the idle cutoff solenoid on the carb. That's why you're getting no fuel.

Kyle


Good eye. Wink
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! Ya i was looking at that and pulged it in. wouldnt crank over so im going to leav it for tomorrow got to dark to see any thing. the book i have shows that i should have a back up light and rear window defogger in line fuse that are 8 amp, but 16 amps are in there. should i put 8 in?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

8 amp please.
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it to get fuel but im not gitting any spark lol. Thanks guys for all the help.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does you dwell meter read when you attach it?
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont have 1. i think i didnt install the point right. took of the distib cap and saw that the rotor is faceing the other way when TDC. tried to get it to face the right way cant get the distib back in,can only get it in when faceing the wrong way. allso tried to get the spark plugs out and the caps on the in side if the wire plugs(2 of 4) where broke and stuck on the ends of the plugs. im allso haveing a hard time gitting the plugs out.
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here is a pic. it was hard to get TDC btw didnt have that problem befor saw it was a lil low on oil might that b the problem?

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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Likely just at TDC for #3 when you thought you were at #1. Have a good look at the green points wire adn replace the points/condensor with your spare pair.

Investing $35 in a dwell tach would be money well spent. Buy this one.....

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002LZU7K/ref=pd...5Q04TD5NV0
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chiprodriguez
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VshawnW wrote:
here is a pic. it was hard to get TDC btw didnt have that problem befor saw it was a lil low on oil might that b the problem?

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Yeah that looks like #3 tdc. Vacuum port on the manifold for thermostatically controlled aircleaner is not plugged. Is this an auto-stick car? Is the egr port completely sealed?
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oo i got a multimeter. i got the notch the right way on crankshaft pully. my buddy told me i might have messed my timeing up.

Randy in Maine (Have a good look at the green points wire adn replace the points/condensor with your spare pair.) not sure what you mean.

chiprodriguez its a 4 spd. (Vacuum port on the manifold for thermostatically controlled aircleaner is not plugged)????? and whats a egr?
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69 Jim
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EGR= Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Just a smog device.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep in mind that the TDC notch on the crankshaft pulley will go around 720 as the distributor goes around 360. If you don't believe me, turn the engine over with a wrench 2 times and watch the distributor turn once.

You are likely at TDC for #3 cylinder. When you put the cap on with the TDC notch at TDC, the rotor is pointing at #3 ignition wire. Put the wires on following the firing order of 1-4-3-2.

Is the green points wire all burned up? If you hooked it to the wrong side of the coil it is likely to be. If it is, replace both the pioints and condensor.
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VshawnW
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thx randy didnt know that. ya i just replaced the pioints and condensor.
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chiprodriguez
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rectangular surface at the base of the manifold (front pointing right at you when you look at the carb/manifold) where the carb bolts up is where the egr valve would have bolted up to. Since the egr valve is missing, you need to make sure that the port is sealed to ensure there is no vacuum leak there. Also there is a port on the manifold left side just below the carb which is for the factory air cleaner. If you don't have the factory air cleaner, the port must be plugged as well.
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