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Could use a little help. (Oil leak)
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:16 am    Post subject: Could use a little help. (Oil leak) Reply with quote

1977 Westy 2.0 liter FI

I did the search and found some good stuff but thought I would post with specific incident leading up to where I am at today.

Oil change and valve adjustment was performed about 4 weeks ago. Inadvertnently I filled to the top of the full line if not even a little to full. As time went on I noticed oil starting to seep out of the filler tube. Odd, never leaked there before. I cleaned it up and made sure everything was good. Well after driving the bus a couple more times and an ensuing oil leak at the filler I decided to drain some excess oil, thnking that this would be the cause. Well no more than the next day while driving a little further all hell broke loss. I was ready to evacuate the bus with fear of an engine fire. Upon closer inspection of the white smoke oil was leaking out of the valve cover onto the he. Got the bus home and parked it.
Additional symptoms & items performed over the last two weeks include:
1. Seems to run better when cold-Too much crankcase pressure?
2. New plugs, rotor, and points. I do need to fine tune this a little better. Should have my dwell meter back soon.
3. Idles higher when hot vs cold.

#3 may not be related to the rest but thought I would throw it on for discussion.
Here is my to do list and it is really open for all to comment and discuss.

1. Drain oil and clean pick up screen.
2. New oil filter. Fill with 3.7 liters of oil.
3. Check lines and other parts for an obstruction that could be causing a blocking creating excess crankcase pressure.
4. Check the cold start switch for potential problems.

This is completely new territory for me. The bus ran great till about 7 weeks ago. I always kept up on maint. items, always kept her tuned.

Any comments or opinions are always appreciated.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may just be the victim of a few events at the same time. The high idle could be caused by the rocker cover leak, did you glue the gaskes to the covers with anything?

The cap leak could just be a cracked cap or badly fitting funnel connection. Filling to the upper line is nowhere near overfull.

Have you changed or altered any hoses on top? particularly the big one to the breather tower?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have run my engines a quart over full for the last twenty years without any problem so I doubt if it would be yours. I agree with Busdaddy that you are probably just the victim of several things going bad at once. Check your crankcase ventilation well to make sure everything is in good condition and installed correctly. If the breather is functioning correctly the crankcase should be under a light pressure, but in all probability the breather is shot so if everything is clear then the pressure may tend towards a slight vacuum at times.

Valve cover gasket are kind of a pain. It takes some practice to get the bails positioned on the covers without displacing the gaskets.
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use hylomar to attach the gaskets to the covers. The seal appeared good and was initially not leaking after oil change. It did not start leaking until the last time I drove it.

As far as the filler connection and cap, I removed checked for cracks and such several times. It doesn't actually come oput of the cover but rather were the plastic filler tube meets the metal portion.

I will check breather to make sure it is functioning well first.
I have not changed any hoses but will check them since I believe this is were the core of the problem may lie.
However, I am somewhat experienced, but do not pretend to be an expert, which is why I threw it out for all to comment.

Your thoughts and ideas are great. Keep them coming.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Install the valve covers with the VW logo upside down.
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timo78
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mention leaky valve cover, add that to the to do: list, they're pretty easy. I had a smoker like you mention after a wonky valve cover gasket. Then applied new gaskets, and they still leaked. Re-did them w/ Permatex and not a drop of oil going on 6 months. Smile
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How about a broken valve guide!!!!!

Not happy about it.... Pulled valve cover yesterday on the 1/2 side and there it was, brass pieces. I felt my heart drop... I put the cover back on and pushed it into the garage. Will decide over the next couple days on what approach to take. As of now here is the game plan.

1. Pull motor.
2. Remove head to see the damage on piston and were the rest of the guide is.
3. ??????
I'm gonna cry.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just remove the engine and the heads to have a look in there to see how much damage has been done.

Then you will know.
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even though the neigne was impossible to tune, it didn't sound like anything was on the fritz. However, if this will turn into a complete teardown and rebuild, I will have to reconsider such massive endeavour. Best case just a head, worst case a complete rebuild...... Any suggestions or other comments. I guess I'm looking for anyone else that had such an experience only with a good ending..... Something encouraging I guess.

Cheers and beers.....I like beer, but I think I will like it a whole lot more today!
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Send off both heads while you are doing it. Have them both improved.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why pull the engine? Just remove the heads.
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iratehippie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pull the motor, in case you want or have to do more.I bought this 72 about 3yrs ago,spent 2.5yrs gettin road ready/daily summer driver. In the course of two oil changes, I took 13pcs. of "piston" or something, below the oil screen in crankcase. That was 6000 miles. I get close to 153psi, all cyls, within a lb. I just drove to Santa Rosa and back to S. Ore, over a 1000 miles, and got close to 22mpg, cruise at 65, weber with 009...
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2009 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

iratehippie wrote:
pull the motor, in case you want or have to do more.I bought this 72 about 3yrs ago,spent 2.5yrs gettin road ready/daily summer driver. In the course of two oil changes, I took 13pcs. of "piston" or something, below the oil screen in crankcase. That was 6000 miles. I get close to 153psi, all cyls, within a lb. I just drove to Santa Rosa and back to S. Ore, over a 1000 miles, and got close to 22mpg, cruise at 65, weber with 009...


Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked Shocked
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Running again. Pulled the motor in November and let it sit till late January. Long story short, the head needed to be rebuilt... All else was good. Nothing got into the combustion chamber. Had some trouble getting it running over the last two weeks, but this website along with others was invaluable in my search to get life into my bus again. Word of advise to anyone, take lots of pictures and notes.

Thanks to all.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool Cool Cool
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meinkfr
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is it about mice and buses? So I checked the cabinets and found a nest. One mouse. All that damage from one mouse. I did manage to get it all cleaned out.

Too funny.

The kids are loving it again.

Will post pics tomorrow. Off to school.
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