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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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mgnut Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Bend,OR
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Posted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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Well we may have found the problem or perhaps two of them. The plastic cover over the distributor cap had been arcing and a code for the knock sensor came up so I unplugged it and plugged it in again and the code went away. Right now its running as good as new. Only put about 15 miles on it since them. I'll keep driving it and crossing my fingers. Thanks again for all the help. This is a cool website. |
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mgnut Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Bend,OR
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:36 am Post subject: |
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It probably would be a good idea if I check out this connector. You say it goes to the fuse block? |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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It is on the back of the fuesbox. The type of fuse box that has this later connector has the later style "h" fuses. If you have a older style with the ceramic fuses, you would not have this connector. From the picture and the comments, the pin is undersized for the load. With a conversion there may be some other loads could have been added with the conversion. Often, you are looking for existing wires that have power when the key is on. A used fusebox from the junkyard is often easier to learn on. If you have a U pick junkyard, you could grab a fuse box and cut the harnesses with about 6 inches of pigtail. That will give you a life time supply of connectors. If your plug is melted, most likely the pin in the fuse box has also over heated. Luckily there is a heavier pin available looking at the thread discussion. _________________ ☮️ |
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r39o Samba Polizei
Joined: May 18, 2005 Posts: 9800 Location: San Diego
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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mgnut wrote: |
Well we may have found the problem or perhaps two of them. The plastic cover over the distributor cap had been arcing and a code for the knock sensor came up so I unplugged it and plugged it in again and the code went away. Right now its running as good as new. Only put about 15 miles on it since them. I'll keep driving it and crossing my fingers. Thanks again for all the help. This is a cool website. |
The (black) cover on the distributor cap is for radio noise suppression.
The issue with the knock sensor can be many fold. A common problem with the knock sensor is bad connections and incorrect torque/lubrication. The issue is the very low signal levels produced by the sensor are lost through poor connections / attachment. Replacement knock sensors with golden pins were once used to help. There are contact enhancers too. In any case, simply cycling the connection is only a temporary fix.
If you cleared the code via OBD, do not be surprised if it comes back. _________________ "Use the SEARCH, Luke" But first visit the Vanagon FAQ!
1990 Multivan EJ 22, Rancho trans 0.82 4th, Small Car front AC, CLKs w/ 215/65-16, homemade big brakes 303mm, Konis, Recaros, etc....
Click to see my ads for Cup holders, Subaru clutch fix and CLK wheels (no wheels currently) |
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mgnut Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Bend,OR
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Posted: Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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What would the torque be and what is the lubrication needed, fir the knock sensor. |
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Vanagon Nut Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2008 Posts: 10379 Location: Sunshine Coast B.C.
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:50 am Post subject: |
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mgnut wrote: |
What would the torque be and what is the lubrication needed, fir the knock sensor. |
Does Tiico use a Mk3 type knock sensor? (Motronic) If so....
From my A3 Bentley ('93 - '99) for 4 cylinder engines.
"Knock sensor to cylinder block..... 20 Nm (15 ft-lb)"
I have heard that removing/refitting can cause sensor to fail. I suspect that's not really the issue. Over torquing (as manual states) more likely to cause a failure. I have removed/refitted mine (2.0 ABA) w/no issues.
Attach VOM (DC) to 1 and 2 of knock sensor connector. Tap lightly on bolt head mounted. You should see minor voltage fluctuations.
Bentley also sez that if signal missing from knock sensor for any reason, ECM will retard timing by ~ 12*. I can't see this causing a no start, but I'm not certain of that. _________________ 1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA
1988 West DIY 50º ABA
VE7TBN |
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mgnut Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2010 Posts: 14 Location: Bend,OR
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Posted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:28 am Post subject: |
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I know that when it retards the timing power is decreased substantially. |
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