Tiico converion quits on the road

[mgnut]

I know that when it retards the timing power is decreased substantially.

[Vanagon Nut]

[mgnut]

What would the torque be and what is the lubrication needed, fir the knock sensor.

[r39o]

[MarkWard]

It is on the back of the fuesbox. The type of fuse box that has this later connector has the later style "h" fuses. If you have a older style with the ceramic fuses, you would not have this connector. From the picture and the comments, the pin is undersized for the load. With a conversion there may be some other loads could have been added with the conversion. Often, you are looking for existing wires that have power when the key is on. A used fusebox from the junkyard is often easier to learn on. If you have a U pick junkyard, you could grab a fuse box and cut the harnesses with about 6 inches of pigtail. That will give you a life time supply of connectors. If your plug is melted, most likely the pin in the fuse box has also over heated. Luckily there is a heavier pin available looking at the thread discussion.
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[mgnut]

It probably would be a good idea if I check out this connector. You say it goes to the fuse block?

[mgnut]

Well we may have found the problem or perhaps two of them. The plastic cover over the distributor cap had been arcing and a code for the knock sensor came up so I unplugged it and plugged it in again and the code went away. Right now its running as good as new. Only put about 15 miles on it since them. I'll keep driving it and crossing my fingers. Thanks again for all the help. This is a cool website.

[MarkWard]

Something like this? http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=402197&highlight=wire Your problem could be completely unrelated to the conversion. Worth a look.
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[r39o]

[r39o]

[mgnut]

Dan,
I did check the feed to the relay #30 had 9.74 volts and that may also be the problem. I think it should be about 12.5 with the ignition switch turned on. The power to the relay from the computer was 12.5 (thin wire).

[914 mike]

When I first completed my suby conversion, I would be driving around and the van would just die. Usually happened around corners or over bumps. Was just like someone reached over and turned off the ignition.
It was a real head scratcher. Very frustrating. I really had no idea why.....I figured it must have been a problem in the modified harness or ????
My father-in-law, a mechanic, said it sounded like a bad ground.
So, I checked the grounds....the first one i checked was the ground from engine to the body. Sure enough, the ground on top of the engine had only been hand tightened....(I forgot to tighten it completly). I snugged it up and never had the problem again.

Mike
84 westy
2.2 suby
In a world full of ponies, it's a thoroughbred horse.

[danfromsyr]

also sometimes relays get flakey, you can (for testing purposes) bypass the FP relay alltogether, just supply the pump a constant +12v
in my 89 cabriolet, I had to use a wire jumper in the relay socket to jump across the internal posts to provide Ign+12v directly to the FP w/o any relay activity. to get home and replace the part(s)
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[mgnut]

Last night I grounded the relay to the chassis and then drove it a bit. At first it started and stalled a couple of times but after that ran like a champ. We may be on to something. I also looked in the distributor and the Hall unit looked brand new and there are no visible wires to deal with. The inside of the cap looked a little strange. There were discolorations on each side of 4 posts. Not like a carbon track causing a misfire, but more like the rotor is too close to the inside of the cap. I cleaned it all up and time will tell if that had anything to do with it.

[foodeater]

I have a PDF of the "Tiico Manual" that Peter put together, it is the relevant chapters of a South African Golf/Vento Bentley manual. It mainly covers the electronics, and has proven handy for running tests on my van in the past. If you or anyone else wants it just get your email to me and I will send it to you.


Also of note is that the Ross-Tech VAG-Com does not work on any Mac OS (unless running BootCamp, Parallels,...etc), you need a PC (Windows).
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89 Bluestar-2.5 Subaru Powered-RIP
'84 Westy Tiico-daily driver-sold
'82 Caddy diesel-sold
'87 Vanagon Syncro-RIP
'81 diesel rabbit-sold
'82 Vanagon auto-RIP

[MarkWard]

Ok, then most likely the fuel tank is alright. I had a beetle under warranty that ended up having a ball of solder rolling around in the tank causing it to quit and when the pump would die, the solder would roll from the pickup. I had a vanagon where the internal pickup had broken away from the outlet causing the pump to starve for fuel under braking and in turns. So you can probably pass on suspecting the tank. Sorry, can't be of more help.
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[mgnut]

It does it even right after pulling out of a gas station with a full tank.

[mgnut]

Thanks for al the replies. Sorry I posted twice, just trying to get used to the forum. Dan from Syr, I grew up in Elbridge about 15 miles west of Syracuse. My brother still lives there and drives an Audi. My name is also Dan.
I unplugged the ECU yesterday and came back an hour later and it started up again. The MAP sensor is the newer style and was also replaced because originally the code came up with that as the problem. That should be OK and supposedly the later sensor has not been a problem.
I'll see if I can get the software for the ECU if it's not too steep and I'll keep you posted on my progress. Thanks guys.

[danfromsyr]

I have had very similiar symptoms on 2 of my VW/Audi cars both times it was a loose wire inside the distributor for the HALL sensor.
and I would have never believed it hadn't we figured it out on the 2nd and repaird it by realigning (and sealing) the inside wires.

they are very small, and the HALL to ECU signal is VERY slight so any single strand of a short will disrupt the ECUs reception of the HALL signal.
the ECU controls the fuel pump.. and if it sees less then ~200rpms it turns off the fuel pump. which will cause the engine to bog & stall.
then there's the well it just won't restart till the wire adjusts, maybe based on temperature, humidity, just plain luck or such.

for 1st I would run a bypass on the fuelpump relay and trigger it just by IGN (yes this should only be temporary) but to prove/disprove a fault.

the fuel pump relay has 4 wires
+Pos in from batter
+Pos out to Fuel pump
+Ign Trigger voltage from Key
-grounds via ECU

disconnect the -GND to the ECU (and protect from shorting) and connect a chassis -GND to that connecter. now the Fuel pump relay will run with Key "ON" regardless of engine running.

*Note I am not an TIICO expert to any effect, but have been under the hood for many eyars of many VW/Audi cars.
some like my 89 cabriolet have a FO Relay that has a input from the Dist for RPMs, some like the vanagons have a regular relay and count RPMs in the ECU. so YMMV
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[MarkWard]

Does it do this regardless of how full the tank is? In other words, is it less likely to do this with a full tank? There could be something wrong with the fuel tank. I have seen a few odd problems on different VW's that were related to the tank. You'd need to do a volume and pressure test when the engine is acting up to determine if there was a problem with fuel delivery from the tank.
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