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Rear axle nut R/H or L/H thread?
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:29 pm    Post subject: axle nut Reply with quote

Drive it to a tire shop and have them loosen it to the point where you can remove it with a 3 0r 4 ft breaker bar and a 6 point 46mm socket
Hopefully you have one near to you put the cotter pin back in before driving
on the highway. Shocked .

If you can't do this then you need to have a shop repair your problem.

Righty tighty, Lefty loosely. 253 lb.s torque wheen finished.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, heating the nut would not hurt, just don't get the shaft to hot it will melt the seals. Spray with some rust penetrant, may take a couple of weeks. Use Anti-Seize when putting the nuts back on and replace the cotter pins. No locking nuts available, you need the torque to hold things together.
Good Luck
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GusC2it
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

greenevilleVW wrote:
I am having a hard time with my passengers side rear axle nut as well. Is heat not recommended?

Also, is there an aftermarket axle nut that would make this easier in the future. Perhaps with a locking allen or something?


NOPE Cool
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greenevilleVW
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I got the nut off! Now having a hard time with the backing plate and e-brake. I am new to busses. It's 1971.
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wearenumbers
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: rear axel wrench goes by another name...anyone? Reply with quote

Does anyone know the slang name for the special wrench to remove the rear hub?
Thanks!
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:53 pm    Post subject: Re: rear axel wrench goes by another name...anyone? Reply with quote

wearenumbers wrote:
Does anyone know the slang name for the special wrench to remove the rear hub?
Thanks!


Hammer, Striking, Slugging and Fracking wrench.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155573
http://www.jbugs.com/product/5749.html


Last edited by Tcash on Tue Oct 21, 2014 2:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: rear axel wrench goes by another name...anyone? Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
wearenumbers wrote:
Does anyone know the slang name for the special wrench to remove the rear hub?
Thanks!


Hammer and striking wrench.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155573
http://www.jbugs.com/product/5749.html


make sure you get the correct size. There are two sizes.
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Jack_O_Trades
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this problem a couple of weeks ago. I was doing brake work and it was my first time removing the drums. I had a 46mm socket with a five foot breaker. The LH side came off fine. The RH side would not budge. I was actually spinning the wheel on the ground. The engine is out on my bus ATM which added to my problem. I'd did everything I could to improve traction but kept spinning the wheel. So I picked up a 3/4" impact driver from Harbor Freight and after a minute or two of impacting the nut came off.
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timvw7476
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 3:20 pm    Post subject: Rear axle nut L/H or R/H thread? Reply with quote

that would be some serious danger(allen bolt locking).the EMPI tool mentioned by Justin pretty much kicks the 46mm nuts ass, if you have hand/eye coordination and can swing the appropriate hammer.(something heavier than a carpenter's/framer's) it's the shock load that gets the nut moving CCW.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wear safety goggles, I've seen bits of metal chip off those tools and travel at high speeds towards precious body parts, be careful.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only reason people have problems with those nuts is because they haven't been lubed or treated with anti-seize.
It's the decades-old accumulation of rust that can make them so hard to take off. Also, they are sometimes overtorqued.
Abuse and neglect: that's the cause of 90% of problems with wrenching on busses.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
The only reason people have problems with those nuts is because they haven't been lubed or treated with anti-seize.
It's the decades-old accumulation of rust that can make them so hard to take off. Also, they are sometimes overtorqued.
Abuse and neglect: that's the cause of 90% of problems with wrenching on busses.


I snapped a 1" well made breaker bar on a late bay one. Close to 300 pounds 4 feet out jumping some. Figure at least 1500 - 1800 pounds on it and it snapped. Had to cut it with a dremel. Later I replaced the hub, axle and nut to be safe as it was clean but probably over torqued sometime in its life.
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Tom Powell
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sometimes you have to take the axle nut off using a chisel to cut the nut down to the threads. A 220# person on a six foot cheater bar didn't do it until the nut was cut.

6x220=1320 ft-lbs

Aloha
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At some point it is nice to get a real man's tool to get these loose. Not that expensive.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85246296?...PLA+-+Test

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Ratchets-S...lsrc=aw.ds

The minimum torque is 253 ft*lbs, while the actual torque to get the cotter pin in will likely be 600-1000 ft*lbs or maybe even more. I have gone to using the Vanagon nut which has more castellations for the cotter pin. This way you can put more initial torque on the nut, 360 ft*lbs, but will likely not see as high a torque once the slots for the cotter pin are aligned.

A 1 13/16" wrench will also do the job.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Ratchets-S...lsrc=aw.ds

Note that the first wrench shown is an offset wrench to give you more room to swing the hammer and clear the lugs, while the others are straight wrenches. The offset wrench would be preferred, Amazon has a good selection to choose from.
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marty_mcfly
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bsairhead wrote:
If the bus is a roller, put your breaker bar with 4 foot cheater 30 degrees or so above horizontal and push,forward for RH and backwards for LH. Better yet if it's a driver let the engine do the work.


This worked like a charm on my '72, especially if you are working alone or only have 115lbs of bodyweight to try and throw around (tried a long cheater bar, but it was feeling closer to a catapult than anything else).

Place a plank of wood down to snag the end of the cheater bar so it doesn't tear up the asphalt.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:43 am    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut R/H or L/H thread? Reply with quote


Link
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DadAdventure
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2024 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
At some point it is nice to get a real man's tool to get these loose. Not that expensive.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/85246296?...PLA+-+Test

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Ratchets-S...lsrc=aw.ds

The minimum torque is 253 ft*lbs, while the actual torque to get the cotter pin in will likely be 600-1000 ft*lbs or maybe even more. I have gone to using the Vanagon nut which has more castellations for the cotter pin. This way you can put more initial torque on the nut, 360 ft*lbs, but will likely not see as high a torque once the slots for the cotter pin are aligned.

A 1 13/16" wrench will also do the job.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Ratchets-S...lsrc=aw.ds

Note that the first wrench shown is an offset wrench to give you more room to swing the hammer and clear the lugs, while the others are straight wrenches. The offset wrench would be preferred, Amazon has a good selection to choose from.


Thank you for the suggestion/link on the 36mm box wrench from mscdirect. Just purchased one to work on my '63 with 1 ton axles. Will now look for a 36mm Vanagon castlenut.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut R/H or L/H thread? Reply with quote

Stop beating and start heating.

Get it cherry red for three cycles, then it will come off with a popsicle stick
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