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remote oil filter location
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VWfanboy28
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wait it might also be the ahu i might use too.. the ahu actually has a spin on filter....

but otherwise alh or ahu are my two options for motor
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWfanboy28-

As far as i know, the TDI uses a cartridge type filter in stock form, and it is easy to service. (both of our daily drivers are TDI's but I never do any work on them myself)

If you really think you need a remote filter & cooler, check this link:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4251807

Good luck, Mondshine
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imtb
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is pic of mine and I am going to replace man fitler with K&N on first oil change very soon.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Oil filter gets very hot.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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VWfanboy28
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 16, 2015 11:42 pm    Post subject: where? Reply with quote

Where can i get this. I am doing an engine swap project in my 1994 Toyota Pickup. Putting a 1.9L ALH Tdi into my truck... Would like to put this in when I do the swap. Would be great to mount somewhere out of the way and easy to get to.
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I purchased the Kepner check valve at a local hydraulic supply.
Since then, I have made some small changes to the oil system plumbing in my daily driven Beetle. From under the engine, it now looks like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The oil pump output is through the steel tube and 90* elbow, and into a Moroso 23875 check valve ( http://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/23875/10002/-1 ) which is more compact, has a lower crack pressure, and is cheaper than the Kepner valve. You can see it mounted vertically, just below the bulkhead fitting which is the oil filter inlet. Definitely go with the Moroso unit.
The other fitting visible is the oil return to the engine.

From the top, it now looks like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Inlet to the filter is through the bottom, and outlet is somewhat visible at the left side of the filter.
The two flexible hoses lead to an oil thermostat mounted to the firewall with bulkhead fittings. There's a Setrab oil cooler mounted near the transaxle, like this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


All of this stuff is on my Beetle, not the Thing. The Beetle uses the shorter CM filter which fits nicely next to the distributor; the Thing uses the tall CM filter (photo is shown earlier in this post).
The Thing engine compartment is very roomy by comparison, making access much easier. The oil setup on my Thing is at least ten years older, but both have worked very well for me. The filter location on the Thing (at the aux air filter bracket) is great; easy to reach, yet out of the way.
Hope that helps, Mondshine
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mondshine wrote:


and from underneath:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Where did you get that drain valve?
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, reviving this one for a bit...
With my new TTS divided header system on the way, i've realized that my current remote filter location is probably not going to work anymore.

Anyone running a divided system And a remote filter(Out side of the engine bay)??? Pics please!!!

FV195, How 'bout them pics of your stainless line set up???
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FV195
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will post picts. when I get my car back, at local shop for ball joints, tie rods, steering dampener, and 4 shocks. putting an end to "death wobble" once and for all.
and I am running a Mann filter for now, going to switch to a fram hp1 next oil change. the Mann is what my guy had in stock.
THOR
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FV195 wrote:
...I got my hoses at Amazon hose in Tampa, Fl.for hoses, fittings and all was less that $40 made while I waited.
THOR


$40???? Shocked Shocked Shocked
Can you post a pic of your setup, location of your filter and the lines fittings involved?
That sounds Awesome for stainless line with fittings!!!
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FV195
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd like your source for these too!
I got my hoses at Amazon hose in Tampa, Fl.for hoses, fittings and all was less that $40 made while I waited.
funny thing is they are in the same building as Fisher Buggies.
so many sources for VW parts hereit is a mecca!
THOR
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FV195 wrote:
I can't beleve how many of you are useing rubber oil lines?


Every stainless line I've ever used was lined internally with.... yes, Rubber! Not arguing the strength/aesthetics of braided stainless, but it's still rubber line....(I'll go to stainless when I can afford it)
Unless you've got some real fancy schmancy stainless line that is braided so tight it holds fluid at pressure... I'd like your source for these too!

Don't read this the wrong way, I'm new here! Wink
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FV195
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't beleve how many of you are useing rubber oil lines? guess I spoiled here in Florida have a shop that will make SS lines on the spot. I mounted mine behind the driverside rear wheel. SS oil lines. I know could damage filter with rocks coming off tire. but I do not off road my thing. will post picts. when I get it back from front end rebuild.
THOR
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Captain Spalding
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that's Oberg.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 09, 2011 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hyatt181 wrote:
Years ago I went to using o-berg filters fits nicely on the bumper bracket and you can take them apart see whats in it, clean and put back together.


Since I am a newbie with respect to gasser VWs, can you give more details on the " o-berg" system? Or just spell out the name and I'll do my own research as I rebuild mine. Thanks!
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Understood. I thought of using that air cleaner bracket as well, but I really want to keep the mess factor Outside of the engine bay. I'm strictly on road with Our Thing! I may make a expanded metal "cage" for the filter where it is, just to give a little more peice of mind from road debris, yet still allow air flow to help cool.!

OK, edited for re-route pic..
Here is what I came up with. I'll get some high temp header wrap for the lines and probably make a bracket to come off the heat box/windage tray bolt to secure them to. Although they're pretty tight as they are.
This angle is weird, but they are no lower than the heat box, so clearance isn't an issue as I thought.
I do still want to make an expanded metal "cage" for the filter though!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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joescoolcustoms
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, my oil filter in my bus is in the engine bay, sort of. The bus has a large amount of room just behind the left rear wheel well back out of the way. When I have to rebuild my Thing engine, I will full flow the case and mount mine on the spare left air cleaner mount. I want it inside to protect it from debris while off roading. I do not punish mine off road, just creap around, but do not want to get stranded by a branch poked into the filter.

Here is a mount I frabricated for a street only buggy I built several years ago, but I think the lower heat exchanger would run right into it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I will have my '73 Thing at CYW. We will be there a few days early and drive it through the mountians, maybe to Cherokee.
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Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So your filter is IN the engine bay? I'm trying to avoid that. Hate to run the lines up in and then back out again.....

CYW Swap meet! I am planning on it!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get that Thing done GI Joe! I want to see it at CYW in just over a month.

Bring the oil lines up through the rear engine breast plate, near the hole where the left fan shroud heat exchanger tube passes through.

I bought my rubber line from a hydraulic fluid power store. Gates 8 LOC 1/2 inch 300 psi working pressure. Part number for Gates is GL06029. Rubber with braided cloth exterior.
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GI Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOD INFO JOE! I will be re-routing the lines, once I get some real oil line. Can't seem to find it at any of the FLAPS...
Can you expand on the "Up through the rear breast plate" route you mentioned?
I'm not getting a good mental image on what you mean.
Thank you!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran a 1915 in college and it would swell the oil filter at a idle during cold weather. Never actually split one, just plumped them, like the old Ball Park Franks hotdog commercial. At that time, (early 80's) the only filters I could get were the PH 8A's. Ever time I would change oil and filter, the new filter would plump in just seconds. I was running too big a pump at 36 mm. I put just a touch over 100,000 miles on that engine and countless filters.

last year a helped a buddy break in his engine. 2236 street car engine, 32 mm pump and on fire up, raised the rpm to 2000 for cam break in and exploded two filters within seconds on fire up. The engine was on a pan without a body and I was holding the cross bar linkage keeping it going and got to see it happen before my eyes. He now runs a K&N 3001 and all is fine.

I have a 2165 in my '59 single cab bus and run the K&N 3001 with no problems on the filter, but I did run the oil lines between # 3 and # 4 exhaust pipes like the above picture, and burnt a hole in one line after about 250 miles. I relocated it up through the rear breast plate and over to the left side fender well behind the tire. Better protected than down below too.
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