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dpb! Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2008 Posts: 22 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:39 pm Post subject: Replacing Rear Shocks |
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I realize I might get harassment from this post, but have been looking for an hour and am not finding a good post on DIY to replace the rear shocks on a camper (mine is 1973).
As with most projects, it looks easy enough, I already have KYB GR-2 shocks and ready to start taking things apart, but also know this is the VW camper and there have to be tricks, hints and pitfalls.
If there is already a post on TheSamba that you can share, I would love to see it. It is even okay to call me a name or two if you want in exchange for the link.
Thanks,
David |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Just take them off and install the new ones.
Let us know what tips we should pass on.
And tell us what you think of them. |
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Sweumteam Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2012 Posts: 21 Location: Johns Creek GA.
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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The KYB GR2 rear shock requires a bushing kit that is sold separate The new shock has no bushing and is a must. One kit will do both shocks and can be had for about ten bucks. You will also want to spray some PB blaster or such on the old sock bolts and let it sit overnight. Good luck and enjoy the ride. _________________ 71 westfalia.1600 DP.009/dizzy and electronic ing. |
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tootype2crazy Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2007 Posts: 1276 Location: St. Louis Missouri
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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An impact wrench or a super long cheater bar is your friend here. The old metal part that the bolt goes through will likely be stuck to the bolt. If this is the case the bushing has a seam in it which you can strike with a chisel to open it up to get the bolt out. Other than that it is unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one. _________________ air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's) |
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chimneyfish Samba Member
Joined: July 28, 2009 Posts: 881 Location: United Kingdom
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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I changed my old gas shocks to KONI red specials D shocks a few weeks ago. I found that all the spring washers, and the flat washer, were missing, when I took the old ones off. The PO must have had them fitted by monkeys. The parts catalogue came in handy here, I now have all the original spec washers in place. Check you have the washers as well before reassembly. Its an easy job. Torque settings for the nuts and bolts are in the Bentley manual.
_________________ 1965 Type 1 Deluxe (1200cc)
1976 Type 2 T2b Microbus L (1800cc Type 4)
Previously...
1972 T2 Camper (Devon), 1988 Golf, 1972 Type 1, 1984 Polo, 1972 T2 Camper (Danbury) |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to. |
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dpb! Samba Member
Joined: June 09, 2008 Posts: 22 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:51 am Post subject: |
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Thank you all for your help! |
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VWsArent4Hippies Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2005 Posts: 3079 Location: The Bull City
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:25 am Post subject: |
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Wildthings wrote: |
Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to. |
Since when does loctite make it easier to remove something? Fuck that, put a lock washer on there and some anti seize on the bolts and be done with it. |
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Ian Samba Moderator
Joined: August 28, 2002 Posts: 4930 Location: 713
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:38 am Post subject: |
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At least one of rear upper shock mounts will usually have something funky going on with it. _________________ All your Buses are belong to us.
Love and good roads!
IN LOVING MEMORY OF ROB CRESS 1968-2012
Last edited by Ian on Thu May 16, 2013 9:39 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50338
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Posted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:39 am Post subject: |
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VWsArent4Hippies wrote: |
Wildthings wrote: |
Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to. |
Since when does loctite make it easier to remove something? Fuck that, put a lock washer on there and some anti seize on the bolts and be done with it. |
Loctite fills the voids around the threads and prevents salt and moisture from seeping in and causing corrosion. Even if Loctite makes the fastener initially hard to remove, it can be softened by lightly heating the fastener to 325°F and then the fasteners can be readily loosened. Lock washers are a waste, there is a good reason that VW didn't use many of them. They fail easily and leave the fastener sloppy loose, they shouldn't be used anywhere where there is a oscillating load IMO. |
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