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Replacing Rear Shocks
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dpb!
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:39 pm    Post subject: Replacing Rear Shocks Reply with quote

I realize I might get harassment from this post, but have been looking for an hour and am not finding a good post on DIY to replace the rear shocks on a camper (mine is 1973).

As with most projects, it looks easy enough, I already have KYB GR-2 shocks and ready to start taking things apart, but also know this is the VW camper and there have to be tricks, hints and pitfalls.

If there is already a post on TheSamba that you can share, I would love to see it. It is even okay to call me a name or two if you want in exchange for the link.

Thanks,

David
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just take them off and install the new ones.

Let us know what tips we should pass on.

And tell us what you think of them.
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Sweumteam
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The KYB GR2 rear shock requires a bushing kit that is sold separate The new shock has no bushing and is a must. One kit will do both shocks and can be had for about ten bucks. You will also want to spray some PB blaster or such on the old sock bolts and let it sit overnight. Good luck and enjoy the ride.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An impact wrench or a super long cheater bar is your friend here. The old metal part that the bolt goes through will likely be stuck to the bolt. If this is the case the bushing has a seam in it which you can strike with a chisel to open it up to get the bolt out. Other than that it is unbolt the old one and bolt on the new one.
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chimneyfish
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I changed my old gas shocks to KONI red specials D shocks a few weeks ago. I found that all the spring washers, and the flat washer, were missing, when I took the old ones off. The PO must have had them fitted by monkeys. The parts catalogue came in handy here, I now have all the original spec washers in place. Check you have the washers as well before reassembly. Its an easy job. Torque settings for the nuts and bolts are in the Bentley manual.

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to.
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dpb!
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you all for your help!
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VWsArent4Hippies
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to.


Since when does loctite make it easier to remove something? Fuck that, put a lock washer on there and some anti seize on the bolts and be done with it.
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Ian
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At least one of rear upper shock mounts will usually have something funky going on with it.
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Last edited by Ian on Thu May 16, 2013 9:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWsArent4Hippies wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Loctiting the bolt threads when you go back together isn't a bad idea. This will prevent the fasteners from coming out when you don't want them to and make it easier to loosen the fasteners when you do want to.


Since when does loctite make it easier to remove something? Fuck that, put a lock washer on there and some anti seize on the bolts and be done with it.


Loctite fills the voids around the threads and prevents salt and moisture from seeping in and causing corrosion. Even if Loctite makes the fastener initially hard to remove, it can be softened by lightly heating the fastener to 325°F and then the fasteners can be readily loosened. Lock washers are a waste, there is a good reason that VW didn't use many of them. They fail easily and leave the fastener sloppy loose, they shouldn't be used anywhere where there is a oscillating load IMO.
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