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HoustonPhotog Samba Member
Joined: February 20, 2013 Posts: 1514 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:59 am Post subject: |
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dixoncj wrote: |
HoustonPhotog wrote: |
Just curious to see... is there a down side to setting up the AC on the luggage rack and have it feed into the pop up tent?
the condensation would drain down the drain holes as normal rain would...
any thoughts? |
http://www.busstuff.net/Pages/ac.aspx
I rigged up something like this. Put the AC on a piece of foam to keep down the vibration, used a silver tarp (Cut up and custom sized from Walmart). A glue gun to hold the 'vent' together, and velcro tape. Then I also glue gunned and velcro-taped together a simple cover for the AC when van's being driven. Simply unfold the cover when the van's parked, and leave it beneath the a/c. (You do have to poke some holes in the bottom of your cover to allow condensation drainage. And yes, the drain holes in your luggage rack will drain the condensation just fine.
Bonuses to this are:
1. Tarp material is waterproof. So as long as you cover the front quarter of your A/C, no problem.
2. AC stays up top - you never have to move it.
3. Simple to strap it down and don't have to haul it in the van.
4. Silver tarp reflects sunlight.
5. Cold air sinks, so if you have a fan inside to circulate air, you don't have to push cold air into the poptop as with a design that mounts on a window.
6. My poptop front window has velcro all the way around it anyway, so it's just super simple to mount my 'duct' up there.
Downside:
You have to have the top popped for 120V A/C. I also have a big tarp tho, that I put over the whole poptop when camped w/top up. Even covers most of my awning. So this all works out pretty well for me. Other is that the poptop leaks cold air like a sieve. Good to insulate it with something - which I have yet to do. |
thanks a ton for the info!
very informative. I have a trip coming up soon and I bought a 6,000 btu unit for like $169 and I plan to place it on the luggage rack. Great idea about using a big tarp to create the "ducting" from the unit to the pop top tent. I was planning on using big contractor trash bags in order to have material to layout a good first time duct.
Tarps arent to pricey so I'll definitely go that route. Much more material to work with as well.
My main usage will prolly be at night while sleeping so from what I can forsee it should work out well.. like you said cold air is heavier than ambient/hot air so itll pour down into the cabin of the van.
Ill post some pics of my setup once I throw one together for the camping trip. _________________ Abel Longoria
VanAlert App for Vanagons/Buses | Texas Vanagons | My Vanagon Build Thread | Follow Me On Instagram | Vanagon-centric Stickers Available Now |
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CessnaJon Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2008 Posts: 677 Location: Senoia,GA
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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rsxsr wrote: |
Cessna Jon, is yours a weekender? I wonder how the AC works with the stove lid up? |
Yeah-its a Multivan/Weekender.I think you are right about the stove lid-it would have to be closed for this to work. _________________ 1973 Westy (shared birthday)
1990 Westy Multivan
2015 Passat TDI 6sp
2015 Sportwagon TDI 6sp
LR-JET, Gulfstream 159 |
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ryecatcher Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 5:50 am Post subject: |
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The prospect of a four day beach campout in steamy north Florida gave me motivation to finally get the AC system going for camping. My requirements were: one-man setup, simple as possible, keep the van cool at night. Here's what I did:
I got the smallest window AC unit at Lowes. This one weighs 35 lbs. To hang it from the driver's window, I thought about brackets, etc, then decided to go with a simple picture hanger – the metal wire I had laying around from hanging a heavy mirror. I unscrewed two screws from the top of the unit, attached the hangers, and re-screwed them. Easy-peasy, not cutting, drilling, etc.:
For the bracket, I used the "L" bracket that came with the AC unit. it hooks perfectly onto the rain gutter:
Adjusted the wires to give the proper angle, and done. Time to figure it all out: hours. Time to recreate it if need be: 2 minutes. It really is that easy:
That was the easy part. The hard part was the window covering "boot." A disclaimer: I don't sew and this would likely be easier if you do. I had two sheets of foam laying about and used one to cut into a template around the window and AC:
I was initially going use Sumbrella or something similar, but got a good deal on a waterproof vinyl. Using the foam as a guide (and with the patient help of my girlfriend), I cut the vinyl large enough so I could fold it over at the top. We used a hot glue gun with high-temp glue. This stuff melted the foam just enough so that it bonded to the backside of the vinyl. A few seconds of clamps, and both materials were joined forever:
Along the edges, I installed magnets (get the neodymium ones if you can – Michael's craft has them in addition to the internets). It was laborious, but we got it done. I left a little extra material around the AC "hole"; this would act as a flap to receive the AC and create a seal. Here is the semi-finished product, hanging from the refrigerator. Magnets!
Next it was just a matter of final fitting. Everything fit together rather nicely. I cut and nipped a little here and there on the AC hole to get the proper fitment. Note that the bottom flap is cut more so that it hangs over the lip of the door and acts as padding for the AC:
Side view of the rail/hanger in action:
I didn't like the way the edges turned out so I ended up using decorative duct tape to finish it up and provide a cleaner edge.
Here's the view from the inside:
I've since adjusted it to plug the gaps. It rained torrentially one day and some water seeped in.
How it worked:
Great! Slapping the boot on and hanging the AC takes 30 seconds. 30 more of adjusting, and you're done.
It's game changing for me to be able to comfortably camp in the summer. Our campsite was mostly sunny. At night, it was cold, even with the non-insulated pop topped. During the hottest day, it did get warm, specially in the top bunk (which is my attic – I don't sleep up there). If you consistently sleep in the top bunk or camp in the desert and such, I would suggest more insulation and/or a bigger unit (but then you're looking at hoisting fifty pounds up to the window). Napping during the day, we just lowered the top and within half an hour the van was cool, even during the hottest part of the hottest day.
Definitely the "coolest" project I've worked on so far:) _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:37 am Post subject: |
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Those inner edges of the skirt are baffling to me as well. I have even talked to a few expert seamstress. I believe I am using a similar unit. What I found out almost immediately is the evap fins bend just looking at them funny. Another member made a cover from a dog screen protector. I copied his idea. You can see it in this photo. The screen protector came from Lowes. One last tip, watch your feet when you take it out. Water does lay in it and you will splash yourself. mark
_________________ ☮️ |
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ryecatcher Samba Member
Joined: January 02, 2014 Posts: 81 Location: Tampa, Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 6:49 am Post subject: |
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Looks nice! You obviously put more work into that skirt than I did, lol. I did end up putting a screen protector; they have one at lowes that is the right height and only required one cut with the tin snips. _________________ 1982 Westfalia Camper, Air Cooled
"Wendeline" |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:20 am Post subject: |
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If you look close you can see my deformed fins from taking it out of the box it came in. I spent way too much time on my skirt. I am terrible with my wife's sewing machine add the sunbrella material and thread along with the magnets was very frustrating. I could not sell them for a living that is for sure. I had the same goals as you. Quick to setup and easy to take down and store. No permanent fixture or loss of garage room.
There is a downside to having AC. When it is hot and humid, you will find it is hard to get out of the van when it is nice and cool inside. Thanks for posting. It really does not need to be so complicated and the more contributors the better. I copied about 3 or 4 member's ideas posted here and made my own adaptions. _________________ ☮️ |
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HENDO Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2012 Posts: 202 Location: Spring Branch, TX
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Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 11:35 am Post subject: |
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SouthOlive wrote: |
Test fitting without closet...
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I am starting on this tomorrow morning.
_________________ 84 Westy AKA "Sludge" |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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Hendo, looking forward to seeing your results. Good luck. _________________ ☮️ |
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debbiej Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2008 Posts: 1556 Location: las cruces, nm
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Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2015 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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Hendo, I spent a lot of time working with one of those ACs in my Westy. You need the kind that pulls air in as well as blows it out. When the temp in the van gets up to around 95, which is very common in the summer, the unit shuts off and it blows hot air. I wrapped the windows, insulated the top, shut the top, it just couldn't cool it off in the middle of the day. I think the manual it comes with even says that it will shut off in temperatures above 100. The window unit, though, can pull plenty of fresh air in and it can cool the van down. Sorry, but I spent 2 weeks working in miserable heat trying to get mine to work, and I thought I should share my experience. I bought it for that purpose, but no luck. It works great in the house though. |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17153 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:01 am Post subject: |
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I wonder if there is a way to pinpoint the sensor and defeat it somehow. _________________ ☮️ |
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danfromsyr Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2004 Posts: 15144 Location: Syracuse, NY
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Posted: Tue Mar 10, 2015 8:49 am Post subject: |
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one problem with the portable units is that they blow air OUT of the van,
this in return DRAWS air INTO the van
hot air from outside. that is then needing cooling.
all that air that exits the portable unit hose must be drawn into the van.
a portable unit needs to be ~20% larger BTU rating than a traditional window unit for the same cooling impact (household use, all bets are off in vanagons)
that being said, I still plan to install and use/test a portable unit in my van for this summer to keep it dog friendly while we travel. mind you I'n in the northern US and not in the humid south or desert SW.
Since I have little trust of relying life on the operation of 2 units if I have to leave my dog unattended while chilling..
I've also purchased a Temp-alarm-alert system that auto dials via blue tooth if a temperature limit is hit or power failure (of generator).
to check the phone/blue tooth you can call into the unit (burner phone) and it'll give a auto response if all systems are good to go.
for FYI heres info on this system
http://gopetfriendlyblog.com/gadgets-that-keep-your-pets-safe-from-the-heat/ _________________
Abscate wrote: |
These are the reasons we have words like “wanker” |
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HENDO Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2012 Posts: 202 Location: Spring Branch, TX
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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Well...I've got it installed. I've got a huge marine deep cycle battery with 115 AH and 5000/10000W inverter also installed. I have the components from Gowesty installed that supposedly seperates the aux and starter battery....installed. I also installed an adjustable voltage regulator on my Bosch alternator that reads 14.5V on my starting battery now while engine is running.
Ok...my.10k BTU a/c runs ok but eats up the aux battery, whether the engine is running or not, in about 20 minutes. I drove around.and.ran it tonight until the alarm on the inverter went off and it shut down. I also saw that my #7 fuse got ate up and pretty much melted. Do I maybe have the regulator cranked up too high???
Why isn't my alternator charging my aux battery while the engine is running???
Frustrating. _________________ 84 Westy AKA "Sludge" |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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The issue here is the AC unit requires 30 amps to fire up, and then 15 amps continuous.
Your below marginal supply at best.
By the time the thing fires up your at a big deficit, and you won't ever be able to get back to where you started in juice. _________________ T.K. |
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HENDO Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2012 Posts: 202 Location: Spring Branch, TX
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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So I am seeking solutions at this point...if anyone has any. _________________ 84 Westy AKA "Sludge" |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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Bumper mounted Gen set.
You'll never replace what the unit is using--you'll always be behind the 8 ball on a unit that is using more than you can store or produce the way it is. _________________ T.K. |
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HENDO Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2012 Posts: 202 Location: Spring Branch, TX
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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Terry Kay wrote: |
The issue here is the AC unit requires 30 amps to fire up, and then 15 amps continuous.
Your below marginal supply at best.
By the time the thing fires up your at a big deficit, and you won't ever be able to get back to where you started in juice. |
My a/c is more like 8 amps continuous not 15. _________________ 84 Westy AKA "Sludge" |
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Terry Kay Banned
Joined: June 22, 2003 Posts: 13331
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:24 pm Post subject: |
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Well if you do some sniffing & reading you'll find out real quick that a 5200 btu unit requires 30 amps to fire and runs at 15 amps continuous.
You have a 10,000 btu unit that runs on 8 amps?
Truly a fuel squeezer.
Amazing---
I don't believe it.
And your dumping more juice into that unit than your producing. _________________ T.K. |
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PDXWesty Samba Member
Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 6247 Location: Portland OR
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Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2015 10:26 pm Post subject: |
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Volts x amps = watts
120 x 8 = 960 watts
12 x 80 = 960 watts
8 amps at 120 volts is 80 amps at 12 volts
Your AC unit is drawing 80 amps continuous off your battery. The 90 amp alternator won't keep up with that draw and the battery will drain quickly. Your system will only work on shore power.
14.5 volts is fine. It's the amp draw that's too high. Fuses melt from high amps not high volts. _________________ 89 Westy 2.1 Auto |
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djkeev Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007 Posts: 32625 Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:10 am Post subject: |
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One of my long term goals with the Van is to travel and stay in spots for a length of time.
By stay in a spot translates into, my daughters house, by brothers house, etc.
We would park at their home and steal electricity and bathroom privileges.
If this were to happen I think my ideal solution would be this product.......
The Climate Air Air Conditioner/Heater. It does require a 15amp 110 service.....
The unit is 18"L X 14" W X 15" H ...... Bigger than a window unit but not huge.
http://www.climaterightair.com/climateright-5000-btu-a-c-heater.html
Yes, it is a few dollars more than a 5000 BTU window unit but I don't want to make the Van look like a "Cars of Walmart" Web page!
If I were to go this route I'd get a rear luggage tray that fits into a 2" Receiver hitch, fasten the unit to the tray and make a Vinyl AC cover to fit it.
The hoses are removable so some sort of stowing arrangement would be made on the carrier tray.
The unit weighs 50lbs so isn't impossibly heavy.
Oh! Did I mention that It also provides clean SAFE heat for those cold nights?
Where to feed the lines into the Van?
Well, you could drill through the rear deck lid......
You Could drill through the side of the Van like the service boxes and Refrigerator vent do.....
Or you could make a panel that fits into the sliding side window that accepts both pipes........ You can see that there are inlet caps for the holes......
I could even build a Bumper not unlike this tray on the front of the Tear Drop Trailer.
Put lights in the rear edge, a high brake light........ Hmmmmmm.....
Dave _________________ Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos
Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473
Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537
Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert
Last edited by djkeev on Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:44 am; edited 2 times in total |
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HENDO Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2012 Posts: 202 Location: Spring Branch, TX
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Posted: Tue Mar 31, 2015 6:42 am Post subject: |
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PDXWesty wrote: |
Volts x amps = watts
120 x 8 = 960 watts
12 x 80 = 960 watts
8 amps at 120 volts is 80 amps at 12 volts
Your AC unit is drawing 80 amps continuous off your battery. The 90 amp alternator won't keep up with that draw and the battery will drain quickly. Your system will only work on shore power.
14.5 volts is fine. It's the amp draw that's too high. Fuses melt from high amps not high volts. |
Well crap. I already had a window unit setup for camping and I have a super quiet champion 3100 generator inverter for power.
So there IS NO solution to driving with this a/c blowing? Adding another aux battery or a higher output alternator maybe??? Anything? _________________ 84 Westy AKA "Sludge" |
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