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The Twin Pulley Cable System
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve Arndt wrote:
Adjust idle speed with the idle speed screws. Not by pulling on the cable at the pedal end!


Confused

I thought the screws were now irrellevant? the old linkage arm is still in place on the passenger side carb, but it would not fit with the wheel on the driver's side, so I relocated it to the front (closest to the backseat) side on the driver's side carb..

if that's the case, I'll have to relocate the driver's side screw as well and adjust them from there..

I guess I was just under the impression that if you had the "pedal to the floor/WOT" set properly, it would position it so you would set the idle speed by adjusting that top fitting on the driver's side carb..
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVDKMCwgqEs

Notice the idle speed screws. Adjust those so your syncrometer reads the same side to side.

Then adjust the slack on the cable between the two so they rotate the same.

Finally setup your pedal for wide open throttle so it doesn't over travel.
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve Arndt wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVDKMCwgqEs

Notice the idle speed screws. Adjust those so your syncrometer reads the same side to side.

Then adjust the slack on the cable between the two so they rotate the same.

Finally setup your pedal for wide open throttle so it doesn't over travel.


ahh gotchya.. guess I'll have to move the driver's side screw to the front and adjust those.. I must have overlooked a step or something, i've got my cables all lined up already, carbs move together, but it just doesn't idle yet..

I wonder if just adjusting the passenger idle screw will pull the driver pulley enough to help it idle too. the amount of pressure needed on the pedal is seriously the least amount of pressure i've ever put on anything, so it's not off by very much.. the pedal only needs to go down about 1/16th of an inch in order to keep it running..
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need a synchrometer to balance and synchronize the carbs before worrying about the cable linkage. That is done with the idle speed screws alone, just like if you had standard cross bar linkage.
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve Arndt wrote:
You need a synchrometer to balance and synchronize the carbs before worrying about the cable linkage. That is done with the idle speed screws alone, just like if you had standard cross bar linkage.


I've always done it by ear but i do own a snail tool.

right now i can't do anything because as soon as i get out of the car to go back to the engine it dies.. like i said in the other posts, i thought the cable tension would hold the pulleys in place advanced enough to maintain idle..

I'm confused now about what the function of the adjustable top piece is then.. I thought it was for fine tuning idle speed..

(circled in this pic)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is called sync link for a reason. That cable links the two carbs together and keeps them in sync.

They must be in sync to start with though.

His video shows how to adjust the link cable to get side to side tandem movement once they are synced at idle with the idle speed screws.
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slowtwitch
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve Arndt wrote:
You need a synchrometer to balance and synchronize the carbs before worrying about the cable linkage. That is done with the idle speed screws alone, just like if you had standard cross bar linkage.


Steve is correct. Your idle and mixture settings are done before the linkage install. The top adjuster is to fine tune your pedal, to get wide open throttle when your pedal is to the floor.
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gotchya, my mistake then Smile

at the very least I'm helping you root out the kind of idiotic things people will do if you don't tell them not to Wink Laughing
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Dr. Frankensteen
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm interested in this kit for my wife's '77 Bay with Dellorto 36's. Is there a website? How do I order?
Thanks!
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1381017 Cool
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tattooed_pariah
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 09, 2014 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bumping this thread back up to the top for the benefit of some SoCaler's... brought my car out to a meet tonight and everyone LOVED the linkage.. told em all to check here, so figured I'd make it easier for them to find Pete Wink
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slowtwitch
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello Folks, I just wanted to post this pic...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It's a crude prototype of the SyncLink System for engines with heat ducts. The good news is that it works Smile

I have all the parts drawn in CAD and all the code needed for the CNC. I'm going to try and have a finished setup in about a week or two.

This new system will consist of a new breather base (similar to the one above). The accelerator cable (the one on the left) will not go through the fan housing (see pic), as did the original SyncLink. There will also be a slot in the bracket to, so that the accelerator cable can be disconnected and put aside (instead of pulling the cable all the way through)..making engine removal easier.

Oh and here's another view....as you can see plenty of room from the ducts Smile

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This setup is universal and will work with both Weber IDF and Delortto DRLA carbs. At least that's what my CAD program is showing me..lol.

It may even work on Type 3's with IDF/DRLA carbs Smile

Lastly, I apologize for the delays in getting something for you folks with heat, it's tough sometimes to get these old brain cells moving Smile

I also wanted thank all the people who have purchased, supported and gave me input... it means alot Smile
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great, Pete. That should get you quite a few more sales! Make sure you warn the customers not to drill into the oil cooler on the non doghouse shrouds! Tom
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911pickup
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is GOOD news!
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OLD VW NUT
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PostPosted: Sun May 04, 2014 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any reason why a guy couldn't use a hydraulic throttle setup to work with these pulleys? That way there'd be no cutting/drilling/routing through the fan shroud.
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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi folks, I cleaned up the prototype... Here are some pictures.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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more to come....

Smile
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PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That air cleaner base is a work of art! Shocked
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bumping up the thread...any updates? heater duct version is looking good. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OLD VW NUT wrote:
Is there any reason why a guy couldn't use a hydraulic throttle setup to work with these pulleys? That way there'd be no cutting/drilling/routing through the fan shroud.


other than many hydraulic fluids are highly flammable and you would want them on your engine?... no ..no reason lol.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWporscheGT3 wrote:
OLD VW NUT wrote:
Is there any reason why a guy couldn't use a hydraulic throttle setup to work with these pulleys? That way there'd be no cutting/drilling/routing through the fan shroud.


other than many hydraulic fluids are highly flammable and you would want them on your engine?... no ..no reason lol.


Bwahaha it's a sealed system, more risk from the fuel lines coming off the fuel pump/carb than from the 10cc of hydro fluid in a sealed system Wink
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