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'56 Oval Baja Build with RGB's
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tanner_122
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

badseed74 wrote:
this has got to be the best way ever to ruin a historic beetle,your so awsome !!! you should buy a schwinn krate and turn it into a mountain bike


quit your bitching this thing would have ended up rotting away or being crushed at the junk yard

if u dont like it leave the offroad fourm
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mr.rong
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

badseed74 wrote:
this has got to be the best way ever to ruin a historic beetle,your so awsome !!! you should buy a schwinn krate and turn it into a mountain bike


whats a matter? you cannot afford so you make fun of him?
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Green bug Guy
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hahahaha he's only making the other bugs out there worth more! hahahaahah the less there are the more money they are worth!
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joescoolcustoms Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

badseed74 wrote:
this has got to be the best way ever to ruin a historic beetle,your so awsome !!! you should buy a schwinn krate and turn it into a mountain bike


Interesting. You must belong to the same group who bash me for lifting my '59 Single Cab Bus and off-roading it.

BTW, I did take my yellow metal flake Schwinn Apple Crate bike with the banana seat and turn it into a BMX in the day, after I welded two front forks together to make it a chopper.
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joescoolcustoms Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joemama wrote:
I have a couple of questions. So with the Johnson kit, you bolt the axle tube sleeve to the stock type 1 spring plate, and the only other thing that bolts to the rgb is the link to the torsion tube? I have a set of axle tube stiffners that look like could be made to work like the ones in the Johnson kit with the addition of a zerk fitting. Have you made a set of plans for copying the Johnson no hop kit? I would like to copy it, if you do. Also, can you use the type 1 backing plates and drums? or do you have to use the bus stuff? Do you think the width of this set up would fit in a class 11 type of car? or do you think it is too wide?
I know this is a lot of questions, but you are a great source of relevant info. Thank you.


First question, yes. The pivit alows the axle tube to twist and not bind up againt the lower strut. I have not yet made any plans on copying the JJ No Hop, and most likely will not. I do intend to take some pictures and post up the lower strut diminsions for future use.

Second question, On a large nut trans, only the bus backing plates and drums will work. On a small nut, I have read that Type III rear brakes will work.

Third question, I cannot answer this. But I will post up the mounting face to mounting face of the rear and you can make that determination. The mounting face to mounting face is 57 1/4 inches.
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joescoolcustoms Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 28, 2010 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welded the transmission mounting fork seams. I hate doing this because they are not a easy weld, but the strength that it adds is worth it. The top half and bottom half is just spot welded and during hard use/abuse, it can buckle in between the spot welds and fail. By welding the seam solid, it greatly reduces this happening.

I also welded the forward JJ No Hop strut mounts, (took out the torsions, rubber bushings so they would not get heat soaked) and welded in studs for the front transmission strap that goes where the gear case split is located.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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joescoolcustoms Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I flipped the pan upside down to allow better access for my skid plate fab work.

I started out with a left over 1 5/8 DOM Tubing section from a previous roll cage build. I bent into it two 15 degree bends, then cut in half.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Came off of the torsion housing with these two pieces, picked up bracing from the bottom of the trans support forks. I will later weld vertical risers off of these tubes to go up to the package trey bottom to bolt into the down tube of the roll cage. These will also be the bottom mounts for the rear bumper. I welded tabs to bolt a skid plate onto with.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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nukeworker
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 01, 2010 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some real nice looking work there.
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DirtGhost
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 7:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sweet !!!!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the props guys!

The wife has to work this Monday and do not. A full day on the body lift and rock sliders are now in order.
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DirtGhost
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Thanks for the props guys!

The wife has to work this Monday and do not. A full day on the body lift and rock sliders are now in order.


My Girl Friend has to work monday and I do not. Doc says I can start wrenching now. So back to work on the web car.
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K_Yandell
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
I flipped the pan upside down to allow better access for my skid plate fab work.

I started out with a left over 1 5/8 DOM Tubing section from a previous roll cage build. I bent into it two 15 degree bends, then cut in half.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Came off of the torsion housing with these two pieces, picked up bracing from the bottom of the trans support forks. I will later weld vertical risers off of these tubes to go up to the package trey bottom to bolt into the down tube of the roll cage. These will also be the bottom mounts for the rear bumper. I welded tabs to bolt a skid plate onto with.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Are the J-Tubes of the exhaust going to clear? I ran some braces similar on a baja I had and ran into problems.
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DirtGhost
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really nice job. Keep us posted of progress . It gives the rest of us ideas....
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shred625
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just please don't use that pipe bender for the roll cage. Its not s tubing bender!!
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Are the J-Tubes of the exhaust going to clear? I ran some braces similar on a baja I had and ran into problems.


The pictures are deceiving, remember the pan is upside down so these are 2 1/5 inches lower then the bottom of the engine. I am not going to run J-tubes, I am running high performance heat exchangers that I will be modifing for more heat capacity.

I know what you are saying DirtGhost, your build help inspire me and gave me ideas of other ways to do what I want to do.

Quote:
Just please don't use that pipe bender for the roll cage. Its not s tubing bender!!


Been beat to death on that subject shred. I have lost count of how many cages I have bent out of DOM Tubing with this set up, more than the amount of HF Kinker basher threads on this site. I will be using it again for this build and the tube chassis drag rail I am building. THAT is all I am going to say in this thread about THAT subject.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 02, 2010 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made it home from work travel today and found these on the door step. New hardened steel Hiems with grease zerk fittings for my front tie rods.

Some DOM tubing, a little welding and bam!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very clean skid plate mounting tubes. I wish I could turn my whole car over when I get to that point Sad
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the pan upright and ready to put it back as a roller!

I had given away my last spring plate tool to a local guy and had to make another. I use a old $ 2.00 swap meet VW jack and weld a bolt to the top. Use a hole on the shock tower and jack the spring plates into place.

Check out the cool spring plate covers I scored a few years ago for $ 10.00 at a swap in VA.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I went to Larry's Off Road Spring Nationals (rain reschedule) yesterday and in the swap meet area I scored these items for the Baja. A $ 2.00 fuel gauge (the '56 oval does not have a fuel gauge and this one will be mounted on below the dash and wired to a three position, three pole switch so I can switch between tanks and see what is in each. A German fuel pump stand and shift rod cover for $ 2.00. A set of clip on valve covers in very nice shape for $ 10.00. And a NOS Johnny's Speed and Chrome rear trans strap for a bartered price of $ 15.00. The JSC strap alows for the use of the stock rear mounts but still straps the bellhousing in rubber for a semi-solid securing of the trans and lessons the rattling vibrations into the car.

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pafree
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 3:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:

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A set of clip on valve covers in very nice shape for $ 10.00. g]


great ideal using the jack. good luck with those valve covers though. they take a special size gaskets and i have never been able to use them without leaks.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
good luck with those valve covers though. they take a special size gaskets and i have never been able to use them without leaks.


Thanks for the tip pafree! If they take special gaskets, they will go back to swap meet material in the future.
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