Author |
Message |
mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 10:53 am Post subject: Brake Adjustment and Soft Pedal |
|
|
Question:
In addition to air in the brake system, could poor adjustment of the brakes (via adjusting stars) lead to a soft pedal, or is that strictly a brake fluid issue??
Thanks,
Michael _________________ Michael Loret |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nbuscemi Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2009 Posts: 733 Location: Fort Worth, Texas
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:32 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I just got over a whole sack full of brake problems with my '72 Super. I had soft pedal and these where my top three issues: 1, All four soft hoses where plugged. 2, My "new" master cylinder piston would hang-up in the bore making it impossible to build pressure. 3, Getting a second person involved in the bleeding process. New hoses, better master cylinder, and a freind cured my brake woes. But to answer question, improper bleeding / air in lines will give a soft pedal. I also found out too that new bake shoes will give a "Soft" feeling until they brake in.
-Nick-
Oh yeah, adjust your pads all the way out to bleed, then back in afterwards just until there is a "slight drag". Drive for a week or so and readjust. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mloret Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2007 Posts: 549
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah, my poor wife got stuck pumping the brakes yesterday. Poor thing.
Anyway, what do you mean to "adjust your pads all the way out to bleed"? Sorry if I'm being thick.
Michael _________________ Michael Loret |
|
Back to top |
|
|
julrich366 Samba Member
Joined: June 05, 2006 Posts: 1306 Location: N.E. Ohio - aka "The Rustbelt"
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 3:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mloret wrote: |
Anyway, what do you mean to "adjust your pads all the way out to bleed"?
Michael |
Michael,
He meant to adjust the pads away from the shoe.
Actually, most people will tell you to properly adjust the shoes prior to doing the bleeding... i.e. get the shoes just starting to drag, then back off the star adjuster about 2 or 3 clicks.
Here's some more info if you haven't seen this site:
http://www.vw-resource.com/bleed2.html _________________ - John
'74 Vert ..lot's to still do. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Bugorsh Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2004 Posts: 1358 Location: SoCal
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 4:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
You turn the star adjusters and run one shoe at a time out until it is tight against the drum so you cannot turn the wheel. Then back off 2-3 clicks on the adjuster until the shoe just barely drag on the drum, then do that again with the other shoe for that wheel (you will do this with all 8 shoes if you are servicing both front and rear brakes). Do this for new shoe installation and for the regular 3000-5000 mile adjustments. This centers the shoes on the drum for the best braking results. After you do this operation, then proceed with bleeding if necessary. If you push on the brakes and the shoes of a particular wheel do not retract then you may have a bad brake hose. All the brake hoses should be replaced periodically as the rubber will swell internally and can act like a check valve and not release the brake fluid causing the shoes to drag heavily on the given drum. _________________ In pursuit of superior handling!
SuperBeetlesOnly.com
VeeDub Parts Unlimited
Topline Parts |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15982 Location: North Florida, USA
|
Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 5:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Actually, I think Nick was trying to suggest you expand all the brake shoes until they are tight against the drums and you cannot turn the wheels. THEN bleed the system. This method has worked for me in the past.
The idea is that reducing the wheel cylinder movement to almost zero means all brake pedal movement builds pressure and forces the maximum fluid out during each "squirt".
When you get the pedal firmness good, then go back and adjust the shoes as directed above.
EDIT: in answer to your original question, "yes", if your brake shoe adjustment was so bad that most of your pedal travel was against the brake springs and not the inside of the drum... It would feel "mushy". _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nbuscemi Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2009 Posts: 733 Location: Fort Worth, Texas
|
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thats exactly what I meant... works like a charm! Bug brakes are easy to work with once you know all the tricks.!
-Nick- |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24733 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
|
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 7:51 am Post subject: |
|
|
Definitely with dual MC you really want to fully lock up all four wheels with the brake shoes adjusted all the way out against the brake drums.
Then after bleeding the brake system you loosen each adjuster till each drum will turn, a slight drag here and there when turning each wheel is OK. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
69 Jim Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2004 Posts: 6264 Location: Chickengeorge's Neighbor
|
Posted: Sun Jul 11, 2010 10:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
julrich366 wrote: |
mloret wrote: |
Anyway, what do you mean to "adjust your pads all the way out to bleed"?
Michael |
Michael,
He meant to adjust the pads away from the shoe.
Actually, most people will tell you to properly adjust the shoes prior to doing the bleeding... i.e. get the shoes just starting to drag, then back off the star adjuster about 2 or 3 clicks.
Here's some more info if you haven't seen this site:
http://www.vw-resource.com/bleed2.html |
Michael,
If you follow the procedure that John has shown, you will be fine. I have done it this way since 1976 and have never encountered any issues. Good luck |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|