CB Performance Type 3 IDF Manifolds on a Type 1 Engine

[thefladge]

Well. I fired up the engine today.

I installed a set of wires with rubber ends and gave the key a turn. It started up and ran a little rough. I still need to sync the carbs. I made a few quick adjustments and it idled for about 4 minutes.

Since the new wires won't fit the early style rubber wire holders, I thought I could just use a blade to slit the wire holder so I could push the wires into them. I don't think this will work very well as the wires look like they will slip out with ease.

I'll drop by Gene Berg after work on Wednesday and see if I can get some genuine VW late plastic wire holders.

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1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[thefladge]

Success!

Everything is together and working great.

I installed the ignition wire clips on the shroud and put all the wires in place. It started up and ran like a dream. I checked the carbs and they were already perfectly syncronized. No need for any additional linkage adjustment (that has never happened before for me)

The reason it was running rough the first time I started it last week is because one ignition wire was not all the way on the spark plug.

I spent about 45 minutes trying to get one of the Corvair-style spark plug wire air seals to fit the cooling tin. I decided to give up and adapt stock VW air seals to the aftermarket wires. Those things are always a pain to install on any VW engine other than a stock single port engine.

To do so I had to cut off about 10mm off the end of the rubber boots on each wire to they could be pushed further onto the spark plugs. This had to be done in order for the stock air seals to fit flush against the holes in the cylinder tin.

Also, the valve covers I had on the engine had breather ports that were too close to the carbs and the hoses got in the way. I installed some old EMPI valve covers I had in my collection with the fittings on the front rather than the top to clear the carbs.
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1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[hotrodsurplus]

Nice job, Charles.

If you ever want to upgrade, scrounge around the roundy-round sites for high-quality spherical rod bearings and get two in left-hand thread and two in right-hand (female ends, of course). I think they're $5 each at Speedway--CHEAP!

Then run on down to mecca (McFadden-Dale or Industrial Metal Supply--damn, I miss those places) and pick up some alu or stainless rod stock and a pair of dies in the diameter the rod ends take. McFadden has left-hand fasteners that you can use for jam nuts.

The dies are incredibly affordable in left-hand (I found 'em online for $10 each) and the opposing thread pitch really facilitates carburetor synchronization. Naturally you'll use one LH and one RH end on each rod.

My experience with the Berg rod ends is that they're pretty crummy. I have two very worn out sets in the garage and one set is relatively fresh looking (perfect zinc plate even). They're fairly open and readily accept dust and grit whereas good quality spherical bearings tend to be fairly tight (some are Teflon lined and never need lubrication). For as much as that shop charges, you'd think they'd use better hardware. Oh well, Gene Berg Knows it All!

Regarding your thread problem, it sounds as if you're loading up the die flutes or you're using insufficient lubricant. I use Tap Magic on my threads because it's convenient and I have a bottle, but most oils will do the trick.

To prevent the flutes from loading up, turn the die about quarter to half a turn in the cutting direction and then back it off enough 'til the chips break off. It'll make a slight crispy sound. That way the chips will displace themselves from the flutes. If you don't do that, the flutes will curl around themselves in the flutes and jam up the cutting operation and will eventually dull the die (or tap for that matter).

Oh yeah, make sure you coat the threads with anti-seize lubricant so they don't gall and seize--especially critical if you use stainless. Stainless is great 'cause it doesn't rust; however, otherwise it's sort of a PITA to use.

[pdub]

Uh, I know hind sight is 20/20 but it might have been easier just to bend some metal and reconficure your bumper. I have the same problem but was able to eek 2.5" K &N's under the bumper.

[thefladge]

[thefladge]

Thanks, hotrodsurplus (Chris). At some point I will take your advice on the linkage ends. The Berg ends are not sealed from the sand and water that will get in while playing around off road.

I was in Gene Berg Ent last week and they have their linkage on display. Since I bought mine in 1994, they have added some rather crude seals to the linkage ends. They don't look like they will actually do anything since they don't fit snug up against the ball socket.

Here are the last few pictures of the conversion. Shown here are the modified Bugpack ignition wires with stock air seals and the Empi valve covers with the breather fittings.

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1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[thefladge]

Well, I finally had a chance to drive it around this weekend. The first drive since installing th short manifolds.

It ran very well. Lot's of power and torque. Idled smoothly. There seems to be a very slight flat spot from time to time when accelerating quickly. I should be able to fine tune the carbs and timing a bit to solve that problem.

It runs better than it did with the tall manifolds that were on the engine earlier this year ( I ran a single Zenith for a few months before making the new change ). I think the old dual manifolds had such large openings at the top that (Looked more like 50mm compared to the 40mm carbs) performance was hindered.
_________________
1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[RailBoy]

Fladge, thanks for the posting of the info on putting a type 3 carbs and intakes system on a type 1 engine.... I am running into the same problem as you did with I do not have the room for both carbs and air cleaners nor even with type 1 dual carb intakes to fit..... Have a narrow engine bay area in my Street Rail with chassis tubes in the way.. So to combat it for now I have been running a Single 44 IDF on a 2110, it moves, but with what you did it makes me wonder what I can get out of it... Thanks for the info and presenting the cool photo montage... RB

[thefladge]

No problem.

Thanks for reading this thread.
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1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[RailBoy]

You did an A-1 Job on this, that is obvious from the photos.... Earlier that is why I just wanted to mention the Cable Pull Throttle Set-Up that we have been seeing around, options is all..... Thanks again for the Thread, Thumbs Up..... RB

[thefladge]

I thought I would share one last picture of the conversion.

This shows the total height of the carbs with the air cleaners in place. It's just under 11 inches total height measured with a yard stick placed on the top edge of an Empi valve cover.
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1957 Vintage Baja Bug.
2110cc engine, 40 IDF Webers on Gene Berg manifolds, Engle 110 cam, Bugpack 40×35.5 Street Pro Heads, W8CC plugs, 12.5 pound Flywheel, Kennedy 1700 pound pressure plate.

[167luckycharm]

Fladge,
Before you dig into the carbs to do some tuning (to combat the flat spot), take a look at the accelerator pump rod adjustments. There appears to be too much threaded portion sticking past the outer end of the nut. Although they are adjusted the same amount on both of your carbs. In my experience, I've backed the nuts off so only 1/8" of thread is exposed at the end of each rod. This affects the shot of fuel delivered by the accelerator pump.
Great job of showing the extent of the type 3 manifold installation!
John
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[langan]

Fladge
Thanks for the post. I need to do same on my Manx I will be using 48's and a lot of porting. Hope it works out as good as yours Thanks

[mark tucker]

I have rod end seals for my entire race car .from the 4 link rear suspension to the front "A"arms ,they make them in almost every size.jegs&summit should have them as should speedway motors. I think there called sealsit but it has been 15 years since I bought them.

[langan]

Run great so far rich at bottom end but no stumble.

[esde]

That driver side linkage is pretty trick. How does it work/ did you fab that?

[langan]

Thanks that's the pass side. I had the kadron linkage and just wanted to know the carbs worked. I will change to the Berg and maybe there manifolds if they fit. These type 3's are hard to get to plugs and may have a heat problem

[bugguy1967]

What pulley combo and belt are you running? Looks unusual...
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"A petrol engine can start readily, run smoothly and give every appearance of being in good order, without necessarily being in good tune." - Colin Campbell, "The Sportscar Engine"