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2276 Turnkey Build Thread - SCAT Kit
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 12:23 am    Post subject: 2276 Turnkey Build Thread - SCAT Kit Reply with quote

I'm starting this thread for my client's 2276 engine build. The kit is based on a SCAT Volks Racer kit. Not willing to settle with all that the kit offers, we've opted to utilize a few other parts from different vendors in the name of power and reliability. The build will start this weekend and should be done in a couple months. I have a full time job and need to get in my 30 miles of running each week, so I can't build in normal shop hours. Here's the current specs:

New mag case, for now just bored and stroked with full flow, more to come
82mm forged SCAT crank, VW journal
SCAT 5.4" H Beams
Mahle 94mm B pistons
Came with C35, but opted for an Engle V26/Berg 309 cam (.480ish lift/[email protected])
Clyde Berg 1.4 EMPI rockers
Came with Manton pushrods, but opting for ACN Aluminum HDs
Shadek 26mm oil pump
Gene Berg iron full flow cover
Forged SCAT fly
8mm chromoly SCAT head studs
SCAT/unknown machine shop 42x37 "Big D" heads - it's got a step in them Sad
For now, SCAT regular lifters, but plan on swapping to another brand for compatibility
SCAT Dellorto knock-off offset manifolds, match ported (they clear the shroud)
EMPI new current 44 HPMX kit (only using carbs and filters)
CSP bellcrank linkage
EMPI 3 1/2 qt sump
Every German tin that will work besides pulley cover, F.I. fan shroud and thermostat
Not sure what 1 5/8, but need heaters, so CSP 1 5/8" most likely
Not sure about ignition yet
Planning on 9.5-10.0:1 static compression

About the sump, the holes on the case side are about 9mm. I could fit a M8 screw into them! How would you remedy that? Maybe sleeve the holes? I don't feel comfortable using thick/large O.D. M6 flat washers to hold it down.

The heads were actually a mistake! My client wanted the 40x37 heads, but they gave him 42x37s. It's good though because the cam's lift better compliments the Big D's flow potential better than the smaller set. The rotating assembly has been balanced by SCAT. They advertise within .02, but whatever machine shop they're using now only got everything to 1 gram. A little false advertising...

It's going in a Bug and will get driven maybe 3,000 miles a year. The plans are to also put the car on the rollers a few blocks away at Izzy Performance Tuning after a wideband tuning session. Pictures to come later. Feel free to point out potential issues or concerns about the combo.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good to me. I have never used the empi 1.4's and always use Cb's. Jet the carbs to 55/145/200 to start. Id also use JC pushrod tubes.

On the sump, some of them come with shouldered nuts with a built in sleeve...check it out. I'd clean the crap out of that empi sump too. The ones I have used had sand in them.

Scat gland nut can get funky to tighten too if it is the big one. I had to make a special tool for my torque meister.

Add Silverline main bearings and Cleveite 77 rod bearings too....
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

is the lift (.480") with the 1.4 rockers?

Never heard of a Engle v26 cam
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Northof49
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the only issue on the Scat gland nut the size not fitting your torquemaster tool?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Engle v26 cam is a old cam grind which Berg now makes as a GB 309 and usually used wit 1:4 ratio rockers.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Northof49 wrote:
Is the only issue on the Scat gland nut the size not fitting your torquemaster tool?

Get the Berg GB-202F, it's a 36mm forged gland nut with a large washer.
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vugbug68
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cjargo wrote:
The Engle v26 cam is a old cam grind which Berg now makes as a GB 309 and usually used wit 1:4 ratio rockers.

Sweet

390 ft lbs! Shocked how do you get it off if you needed too?
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After doing a Scat 2276 kit, this is my take.
Lose the large 1 1/2" gland nut. Im using a chinese 36mm chromolly. Ive spun up to 8300 and 7500+ rpms variously and it holds. 20 bucks. If you have an attachment to use along with the scat gland nut one. No sense in buying at that point.
I dont see the point on using that cam specified. Youll be way below the potential curve of what the heads can put out. Especially for a weekend cruiser. Id look at an fk8 and check for coil bind/ piston to valve clearance. I had about .190 p to v. Id go +1 at the cam. I like scat 4340 adj straight cuts. Good quality.
Empi and Bugpack spec out higher than advertised. 1.42 up to 1.45. In some cases, a lil bit more. Tbh, im surprised you didnt get scat pro comps.
Mantons are good enough for race applications. If youre doing it for wieght then cool. My mantons are pretty quiet once warm. If you dont want them, id entertain buying them from you for the right price.
Be ready to custom cut the H/S set. Theyre a lil long to accomodate bigger strokes.
Toss the scat pr tubes. Either JC or empi ss windage.
Id get the step milled out and readjust cr to match what you mentioned earlier.
Im a huge fan of cb lightwieghts. They work and work flawlessly.

These are all imo and things ive done or wouldve done if given the chance in your case.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll try to reply to everything I've read. The K8 moves the powerband a little higher than what my client has asked for, and at the time of cam selection, we went with a cam that would work well with 40 intakes, even though it was .30" past the 40 intake's peak flow. At .480, the 42mm intakes flow has almost peaked, so it appears to compliment well.

The cam is basically a W120 with 1.4 rockers and around .480" total lift.

I was already thinking about the gland nut. I use a torque meister and would have to mod my tool to torque it.

I don't know why we're going with EMPI 1.4s, but Clyde sells them.

As for the pushrod tubes, I've had success with sealing them. They're actually my favorite, aside from the white end seals that come with them.

The kit has silverline bearings for the mains and cam, but some brazilian ones for the rods.

Murzi, thanks for the jetting.

Going with the ACN pushrods for quietness and to lighten up the valvetrain.

I'ma see if my client would consider going with CB 28mm lightweights.


Last edited by bugguy1967 on Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:22 pm; edited 1 time in total
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh yeah, the heads! I'll get the step removed and get more chamber work. I wish they would have included the specifics with their package, but I doubt they even know. Rolling Eyes

If the rockers spec out to higher than 1.4, it'd be nice. The closer to .500", the better!


Last edited by bugguy1967 on Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugguy1967 wrote:
Oh yeah, the heads! I'll get the step removed and get more chamber work. I wish they would have included the specifics with their package, but I doubt they even know. Rolling Eyes


Absolutely nothing wrong with a step in the heads. You can do all that extra work if you want but it won't make the engine run any different.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Roy. The step is merely a preference thing in my eyes. I'll weigh the options. I'm concerned with the engine being as narrow as possible with the parts I have in front of me.

Btw Roy, with the cam's specs, would an even 10.0:1 static cause any pinging issues? I'ma make sure to knock that edge out of the chamber.
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MURZI
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 3:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected]'d be using closer to 9- 9.25.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently ran through my turbo 2110 and changed to the V26 cam. With CB 1.4 rockers I'm measuring right at .500" at the valves. Cam is very similar to WEB 86A as well. I'd go with Murzi's suggestion of some decent static CR as well. Mine has only 8.1:1 to leave room for plenty of boost. I wish I'd bumped it up a bit higher.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my [email protected] does just fine @10.4 cr.. I would either cut out the step and run .040 piston to head clearance or run the piston up in the step to have a .040" piston to head clearance. (mine is about .033" piston to head clearance) I run a rocker very close to the empi rocker(probably the same thing) they needed about .040" or .050" removed from the blocks to lower the rockers to get the right geomatree Rolling Eyes .mine are 1.34 ratio, so in rality I have even less duration cam...... I also take some off the sides so I can use extra shims for better thrust control&less frickshaun... Shocked I use the scat glod big mouth and or empi large id aluminum spring loaded tubes in my motors, no leeks and no clearance issues. the scats are a soft aluminum tube,they can be swedged oipen even bigger if needed.I swedge mine biger and swedge them to the seal back up washer so it wont get lost when you take the motor appart...or befour you assembe it and there just rolling around in the box or parts washer. I prefer the chromoly pushrods but thats just me,no I havent used any of the aluminum hd ones. I thighten the crap out of my gland bolt with a 30" peice of pipe over the breaker bar and my big ass on the end of it.( I was about 230ish back then)I also use moly lube on the gland bolt threads and face and washer, and befor that I deburr the flats of the bolt si it dosent gauld or dig into the washer witch the do quite bad witch affects torque. I make my own sholder nuts for the sumps that dont have them. ace or loes or homers depot has the long nuts,then put in a lathe and cut them down I then press on a hardened wavy washer on to the nuts.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How to mod a large socket to work w your torque tool:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Cut the head off an old 36mm gland nut, weld it on to the back of whatever socket fits your gland nut. I cut about 1/2" off the total depth of the socket to make it line up better when use w the tool, and a 1/2" extension in the back as well.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How to mod a large socket to work w your torque tool:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Cut the head off an old 36mm gland nut, weld it on to the back of whatever socket fits your gland nut. I cut about 1/2" off the total depth of the socket to make it line up better when use w the tool, and a 1/2" extension in the back as well.
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bugguy1967
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Mark and Edse. I'll see how close I can get the adjusters parallel before I start shaving material off the backside of the blocks, which isn't really a problem. I have access to bridgeports at work.

Edse, what's the extension for? To snug up the nut with a ratchet before torquing? That's exactly what I'm going to do! Before I install the gland nut, I'll be sure to knock off those sharp edges from the underside of the hex too.

The reason I ask about 10.0:1 comp is because many run 10.0:1 with W120s on 91 octane.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more thought, the Scat sump is superior to the Empi in many ways. Nicer casting, better machining, more reinforcement inside, and it doesn't hang as low. I had poor luck with a few purchases from scat last year, but the sump wasn't one; I like it a lot.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have scat,cb,berg's,empi,and some old no name sump I forgot who made it(brain fading fast). they all do ok(the noname seeps through it somewhere on topIm not sure it's aluminum....looks kinda funny, The cb 4qt ( not the wide sump) has some issues I dont like,the flange is thin real thin.and it fits close to the case and has notches for clearance where the case bolts are.I got it off flebay"new" well it wasent new but it was never used as the sump flange was dimpled from the installer not seeing it was hitting the case at the forward pry/split/wack nub on the case.and he tightened it up a little(the case needs to be clearanced for the sump.) but it holds a lot of oil and hangs just a little more than my berg 1.5 sump. I wish the sump flange was atleast .0625" thicker, either up or down in the sump.heck I think my berg flange is 5x as thick, and a lot heaver too witch dosent help cooling so well. the empi & scat sumps are nice. and not so heavy.the scat is 2 or 3 qt.it's nice. I wish i had a wicked cnc mill so I could go in the berg sumps and lighten them suckers up a few pounds and hold more oil too!!! Im thinken on getten one of the wide thin cb sumps for my 2393 for my 356 speedster as it will probably be a tad lower than my bug, if I do the sump will have a nice selection of trap doors to help control the oil&keep it at the pickup.

Last edited by mark tucker on Fri Nov 14, 2014 9:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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