| Author |
Message |
lonewolfe
Samba Member
Joined: April 09, 2010
Posts: 59
Location: San Francisco
|
 Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 5:24 pm Post subject: Thanks 74 Thing |
 |
|
Thanks for posting the link to the step by step heater box fab article. Looks like a lot of work but a lot better than buying CSP 1 5/8" heater boxes for nearly $800.
_________________
If you hear these words then get out of the way, "Hey Ya'll, Watch this!!!". |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
youngnstudly
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 833
Location: Whine Country (SF Bay area)
|
| Posted: Fri Mar 04, 2011 7:39 pm Post subject: Re: Thanks 74 Thing |
|
|
| lonewolfe wrote: |
| Thanks for posting the link to the step by step heater box fab article. Looks like a lot of work but a lot better than buying CSP 1 5/8" heater boxes for nearly $800. |
It's not too tough to convert your heater boxes if you have some basic metal fabrication skills. I am actually working on the scratch built stainless heater boxes right now that I mentioned in the article. Those are 10 times the work, but I like the idea of more freedom with construction and design. Plus no painting or rust to worry about!
Andy
_________________
The economy is in a state of disaster, we have NO time for common sense! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
tcgmark
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 55
Location: Fullerton, CA
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Quote: |
Darth Weber
I think this is a bad idea because it would be hideously expensive and probably just wouldn't work but what if you Extrude Honed the stock heater boxes? Would it remove enough from the inside and smooth it enough to work better with larger motors and bigger valves? Just wondering.
|
I have an idea im working towards. I am going to try and take stock heater boxes, disassemble them, dissect the stock aluminum fin structure, remove the steel tubing from inside, then honing out the aluminum to fit a bigger pipe. I haven't started yet, but in the end I believe it may be worth the effort.
To answer to OP, I run a 2276 with 40 x 35.5 044 heads with stock heater boxes. I don't rev very high, and it has good torque. I think what I have read is right about choking the motor down and creating too much heat for the heads, but so far it runs really well, and I don't beat it up either.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
hpw
Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006
Posts: 3010
Location: memphis
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
| tcgmark wrote: |
I have an idea im working towards. I am going to try and take stock heater boxes, disassemble them, dissect the stock aluminum fin structure, remove the steel tubing from inside, then honing out the aluminum to fit a bigger pipe. I haven't started yet, but in the end I believe it may be worth the effort.
|
Be sure to take plenty of pictures |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
youngnstudly
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 833
Location: Whine Country (SF Bay area)
|
| Posted: Sat Mar 05, 2011 7:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| tcgmark wrote: |
| Quote: |
Darth Weber
I think this is a bad idea because it would be hideously expensive and probably just wouldn't work but what if you Extrude Honed the stock heater boxes? Would it remove enough from the inside and smooth it enough to work better with larger motors and bigger valves? Just wondering.
|
I have an idea im working towards. I am going to try and take stock heater boxes, disassemble them, dissect the stock aluminum fin structure, remove the steel tubing from inside, then honing out the aluminum to fit a bigger pipe. I haven't started yet, but in the end I believe it may be worth the effort.
|
You need to check out a cross section of what a stock heater box looks like before you "jump in" head first on your project...honing won't work and round tubing won't either, due to the shape of the stock heater box pipes. You simply can't fit a piece of 1-3/8" (or even 1-3/4") tubing into a casting that has a 1-7/8"X1-1/2" opening. It would be easier to machine aluminum fins from scratch or scrap that idea altogether since you still need to figure out how to secure a chunk of aluminum around a steel pipe when it heats up and starts moving.
Not trying to rain on your parade but I didn't want you to waste a heater box and time finding it out on your own. Check Jimmys post on the first page, or the link to cal-look.com to see what I mean. There are, however, many other ways to put fins on the tubes if you're that serious about doing it. I tried 3 or 4 methods when I did mine, and finally decided that I would run the tubes bare and see what happens. I'm doing something different this time around though (on the stainless heater boxes). Maybe it will work, maybe not....I'll try it and see what happens. I could brake up some angle in the shape of a "V" and weld the legs to the tubing to achieve the same thing, but I like this better.
-Andy
_________________
The economy is in a state of disaster, we have NO time for common sense! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
tcgmark
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2008
Posts: 55
Location: Fullerton, CA
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 2:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Yeah, i was looking at that and I see what you mean. You have more experience than I when it comes to breaking them down and working with them.... It's a bummer to me when I see that other companies have put larger tube inside stock looking heater boxes without fins and charge an arm and a leg for them... Perhaps with perseverance we will one day overcome this... I picked up a set of stock heater boxes from the swap meet for $10 and they want $400 for one side with bigger tubing and no fins.... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
storm
Samba Member
Joined: April 28, 2008
Posts: 298
Location: Juneau, Wisconsin
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 7:54 am Post subject: to lone wolf-copper heat sinks |
|
|
What a responce, Arnolds 64, and others. Yes heat boxes can be taken apart. nor wasting your time. Now in a bus, its not the heat, its keeping the cold out. Make sure all seals are doing what they are suppose to do. like the brake, clutch and acceralor rubber seals under them. and the long tube under the bus. insulate. What I used is some 3/8-1/2 copper tubing (soft) copper used for water pipes. sodar together and brased to the metal J tube. make sure to maintain proper fit to fit into heat box. I had to commpree some. Open end of copper tubes paralaw to J pipe, so air can go thru without restrisons. Sorry no pictures, but I will do it again for my 66 double cab. A1 exhaust is pricey but fits in my 66 -13 window just fine. I don't know about your bus, because I think you have a engine support holding your engine and trans together. There was a artical in Hot Vw's 2002-3 about fitting in a 68 bus. Call A1 to make sure it will fit. George
_________________
always ready to learn and give advice |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
youngnstudly
Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2005
Posts: 833
Location: Whine Country (SF Bay area)
|
| Posted: Sun Mar 06, 2011 1:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| tcgmark wrote: |
| Yeah, i was looking at that and I see what you mean. You have more experience than I when it comes to breaking them down and working with them.... It's a bummer to me when I see that other companies have put larger tube inside stock looking heater boxes without fins and charge an arm and a leg for them... Perhaps with perseverance we will one day overcome this... I picked up a set of stock heater boxes from the swap meet for $10 and they want $400 for one side with bigger tubing and no fins.... |
If the boxes you picked up are German and decent, you have already won half the battle. Those boxes are more simple to take apart IMO. The other part that you will have trouble with is finding 1-3/8", 1-1/2", or 1-5/8" J tubes that have the correct radius and offset on the end to fit into the heater box tin. On the plus side, you have a ton of options for fin arrangements and sizing the fins isn't all that critical since the factory fins fit so tight into the factory heater box tin. Sometimes I wonder how all that air flows through the heater boxes when the factory fins take up so much room! One thing I would stay away from is soldering or brazing anything that is part of the exhaust. And don't be afraid to grind off the connecting seams on the German boxes and just lap one side over the other and weld along the seam.
-Andy
_________________
The economy is in a state of disaster, we have NO time for common sense! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
apensity
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2014
Posts: 208
Location: Chico, CA
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
madmike
Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005
Posts: 5292
Location: Atlanta,Michigan
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 3:52 am Post subject: Re: Stroker engine and stock heater boxes, anyone running them?? |
|
|
My 2110 has stock heads and stock heat exchangers, cheap bugpack header, full flow w/filter and (aux cooler w/fan,only needed when high rpm like the autobahn  I don't live in death valley, we have hills up here too , head temps are always good too 
_________________
'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
apensity
Samba Member
Joined: July 07, 2014
Posts: 208
Location: Chico, CA
|
| Posted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 6:38 am Post subject: Re: Stroker engine and stock heater boxes, anyone running them?? |
|
|
From what I have been reading, the larger heads create more of a problem with heat, especially if the exhaust is 1 3/8" and the exhaust valve calls for 1 1/2". So I'm stepping up the heater box to a big bore and an A1 Sidewinder, all 1 1/2". Hopefully that helps.
_________________
1974 Standard Beetle, 1835cc with A/C... pure fun |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
