Hello! Log in or Register   |  Help  |  Donate  |  Buy Shirts See all banner ads | Advertise on TheSamba.com  
TheSamba.com
 
Engine Cooling and Cabin Heating System Tutorial
Page: 1, 2, 3 ... 14, 15, 16  Next
Jump to:
Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up Share: Facebook Twitter
Reply to topic
Print View
Quick sort: Show newest posts on top | Show oldest posts on top View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Paul Windisch
Samba Member


Joined: September 02, 2009
Posts: 2546
Location: Clinton Township, Michigan
Paul Windisch is offline 

PostPosted: Tue Sep 28, 2010 9:36 pm    Post subject: Engine Cooling and Cabin Heating System Tutorial Reply with quote

Please forgive the length of this post. There is a lot of good information in it and I'm just trying to help some folks understand how the heater and engine cooling system work.

1) There have been many inquiries regarding the engine cooling and cabin heating system on our air cooled VWs, so I decided it apropos to give the description and operation of this very simple and functional system, as well as some comparisons with aftermarket parts, based on my own experiences. It will also describe the importance of various system components.


2) The air cooled VW engine cooling system is the brain child of German engineers that spent decades designing, studying, refining, and improving the cooling system. It is unlikely that most of us are smart enough or have the test equipment or developmental funding to improve said system. When a particular problem arose, it was quickly addressed by these engineers, as reflected by the older distributor designs which retarded the ignition timing on cylinder #3 to combat the extra heat generated by the location of the oil cooler. Most backyard "improvements" have proven over time, to have some degree of failure to them. These vehicles have been tested by VW in some of the most extreme conditions known on the planet, and were really the "first" passenger vehicles known to commonly travel 100,000 miles or more between overhauls. Keep this in mind before adding or subtracting components.


3) I'll begin the description where the system begins: The cooling fan. The cooling fan is located in the fan shroud and is bolted to the front of the generator or alternator (depending on which you have), which is driven by the engine crankshaft pulley via a V-belt. The generator light on the dash warns when the charging system isn't charging. This could be the result of a wiring problem or a component failure, but it also could be because THE GENERATOR ISN'T TURNING! If this light comes on when you're driving, stop immediately to make sure the belt is still on and the fan is still turning on the front of the generator. You could quickly cook your engine if you don't.


4) OK, so the belt is on with ½" deflection, right? Good. The fan turns at 1.75x engine speed, meaning if the engine is at 1000 rpm, the fan is at 1750 rpm. This is the reason to avoid "power" crank pulleys, they slow down the fan speed (as well as generator speed). As the fan turns it displaces air, pressurizing the inside of the fan shroud, and causing low pressure at the front of the fan inlet, allowing fresh air to be drawn into the fan. The size and speed of the fan dictated the amount of air slots on the decklid, which is why the number of slots increased over the years with the greater displacement of the larger fans. It is possible to have an overheating condition if you have a late model 1600 dual port with a doghouse cooler and an early model (no vent) decklid. Either install a vented decklid, or use stand-offs or a tennis ball to prop open the decklid.


5) Alright, the inside of the fan shroud is pressurized. The pressure is looking for somewhere to go. It is ducted by internal vanes to the oil cooler, the cylinder heads and cylinders, the fresh air tubes, and a nozzle at the upper right corner. The shape of the vanes and fresh air outlets are important and will be discussed later. The nozzle pumps air into the charcoal canister to scavenge collected fuel tank vapors, and send them to the air cleaner to be burned. The vanes to the oil cooler are fixed, so the oil cooler receives a fixed percentage of air. Oil lubricates the moving parts of the engine, but it also helps cool it. As the oil travels through the various parts of the engine, heat transfers to the oil, which travels through the oil cooler at various rates dictated by the bypass valve. This heat is then transferred to the air passing through the face of the cooler, and is expelled through ducting under the engine compartment.


6) The rest of the pressurized air in he shroud has two places left to go: the cylinders and heads, or the fresh air tubes. This is one of the reasons the thermostat and flaps are so important. The overall operating temperature of the engine is dictated by the thermostat, which actuates the flaps based on temperature. The O.E.M. VW thermostat looks like this:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Pic borrowed from 68Bug-lite in the gallery.


The thermostat is a bellows design and is filled with a liquid that is designed to expand, thusly making the bellows expand, at a specific temperature. The thermostat does not actually push the rod to open the flaps, on the contrary it holds them closed when the engine is cold. When the thermostat expands, it relieves tension on the actuator rod and the spring on the cross linkage at the front of the shroud pulls the flaps into the open position. The thermostat is designed this way on purpose so if it fails, which would mean it lost it's seal, the bellows spring open, which allows the linkage spring to open the flaps, hence if the thermostat fails, the engine will not overheat.

The new style that is available looks like this:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It CAN fail in the closed position, which will quickly cook the engine. I wouldn't run it, but if you decide to, make sure you have a cylinder head temp guage so you can monitor the temperature.

This is what you see in the bottom of the fan shroud. The flaps on the left and right are pulled closed by the thermostat when the engine is cold via the rod in the left side of the picture. The right and left sides are connected by the cross linkage and are under tension by a spring on the crossbar that is constantly trying to pull the flaps in the open position. When installed on the engine, the rod and thermostat are on the right side of the car. Picture borrowed from mnussbau in the gallery:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



With that out of the way, the flaps A) Allow the engine to warm more quickly by cutting off air flow to the cylinders and heads; B) Direct more of the cooling air to the heads, which are hotter than the cylinders and require more cooling air. "A" is important for two reasons: 1) you want the engine to warm up quickly, which aids in fuel atomization for proper combustion resulting in maximized fuel economy; 2) If less pressurized air is used cooling the cylinders and heads, more of it is available for cabin heat! If any of you have looked at the thermostat after a decent drive, most will notice that under normal circumstances, it usually doesn't open completely, so that means more air volume for the heater. In colder ambient temps (when one would presumably want heat), the thermostat may not open at all, which gives much more available air volume for the heater.

The yellow shows the general flow of air and the fresh air outlets and tubes. The red shows air moving toward the thermostat flaps where it will be directed at the heads and cylinders.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


7) So now the oil cooler is getting air and the flaps are doing their thing directing air at the cylinder heads. The rest of the air is flowing through the fresh air outlets. I mentioned earlier the shape of the fan shroud internal vanes was important, here's why. The shape and formation of the vanes is gently and methodically curved to change the direction of the air in the most efficient way without losing too much air speed or volume. The angle and placement of the fresh air outlets on a stock fan shroud is equally as important, in regards to the heating system. I have run both aftermarket chrome, and I have recently returned to a stock shroud, and the volume of air entering the car is dramatically different between the two. The aftermarket shroud had no provisions for thermostat flaps, and the fresh air outlets were at right angles the face of the shroud, with a small dish of metal inside the shroud (about the size and shape of a salad spoon) to "catch" air for the heater.

Here's the chrome shroud I used to run, The fit was OK, but the function was not. Notice the outlet are at a right angle to the shroud.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is a pic of the "salad spoon", circled in yellow inside the shroud. The air has to "find" it's way into there.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The outlets of the stock shroud are angled in the direction which the air needs to travel, and also have vanes inside the shroud which direct the air toward the outlets in the first place, giving a nice smooth flow of air, with minimal velocity loss. All of these elements add up to increase volume into the passenger compartment. Also, with the lack of cooling flaps and poor air flow to the heat exchangers, my cylinder head temps on the expressway were 75-100 degrees higher with the aftermarket shroud.


8 ) The air is now traveling through the fresh air tubes. The tubes connect to a nipple that passes through the rear engine tin.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The nipples are inserted into small boxes that envelop the rear exhaust pipes that are part of the muffler.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And in the context of the muffler with the nipples inserted

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



Continuing down and forward, these boxes are connected to the heat exchanger via a clamp. If you have an aftermarket muffler that lacks these boxes, acquire some longer fresh air tubes or stretch out the hoses you have, and route them all the way through the rear tin, around the rear exhaust pipes, and connect them directly to the heat exchanger.

My hoses are directly connected because I run a Monza exhaust.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The heat exchangers incorporate the exhaust pipes on both front cylinders (#3 and #1). The pipe has a large finned heat sink around it, and around that is the external body of the exchanger. It should be noted that many aftermarket heat exchangers have a lesser amount of fins, or lack them altogether. This is important because the less fins they have the less surface area they have, which equals less heat transfer, which equals less heat available for the cabin.

Here is a cross section of an OE heat sink, borrowed from another thread:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The heat sink runs almost the entire length of the heat exchanger, giving lots of surface area to transfer heat.


9) The heat exchangers serve two purposes. First, obviously, they provide a source of heat for the occupants. Secondly, they remove excess heat from the cylinder head. Heat always travels to cooler surfaces, so it travels from the hot cylinder head, to the cooler exhaust pipe, the cooler fins (heat sink), to the cooler air that is passing over them. Many people don't know that the heat exchanger is operating all the time when the engine is running, regardless of the position of the heat control lever in the car. The lever in the car controls a diverter valve internal to the heat exchanger (another flap) via a cable that runs from the lever to the arm on the side of the heat exchanger. This valve directs air flow into the hose that leads to the heater channel when the heat is "on". When the heat is off, the valve closes the port that enters the car and opens a port on the top of the exchanger, toward the front. With the heat off, the fresh air tubes still deliver air to the exchanger to transfer excess heat from the cylinder head. This heat is then expelled through the top port on the exchanger and exits below the engine compartment. For this reason, even I you don't care to use the heater, if you still have heat exchangers, you should always have the fresh air tubes connected.


Here is the left heat exchanger, the right side is similar. Note the cap toward the top of the exchanger (left side of picture, with the spring going over it). This is where the heat exits when the heat in the car is "off". (Pay no attention to the spring, my flap is sticky and needs help closing).


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


10) The air is now exiting the heat exchangers, all warmed up. If you have the heat lever pulled to "on", the heated air travels through the large flexible tube that connects the front of the exchanger to the heater channel in the car. This tube is insulated to reduce noise and minimize heat dissipation.

Here is the flexible tube, it looks like a dryer vent. It slips over the heat exchanger (exchanger to the right in the pic). The connection point is hidden by my swing axle.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



And here it is connected to the heater channel. It slips over the heater channel, too, with a clamp to hold it in place. Note for reference, the bottom of the picture is the direction of the front of the car.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Once in the heater channel, the air comes to a "Y" under the rear seat. One direction continues forward to the front of the car, the other to the outlets in the kick panels under the rear seat. The rear outlets are controlled on and off by another lever and cable assembly. Toward the front, in the foot wells in the rocker panels, are the outlets for the front heat. With the outlet doors open, heat is directed at the front occupants' feet. With the outlet doors closed, heat is directed forward still, into the defroster hose ducting, which is coupled to the front of the heater channel, just forward of the "A" pillar.

The yellow drawing is the hose visual, if you had x-ray vision. The white circle is the front footwell heater outlet.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The hose comes out of the place in the very corners of the trunk where you can't see. It then goes to a splitter (one on each side) that decreases the outlet size of the hose and directs it to: the lower corners of the windshield, the center windshield vent, and the right and left windshield vents. The right and left windshield vents also have knobs on them that slide right to left. This controls whether the air is directed at the windshield, or at the front seat occupants through the dash.


The yellow arrows are the lower corners. The red arrows are the center, and the aqua are the right and left.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



The red arrows point to the selector knobs. In the straight up position, air blows on the windshield. When slid to the right, air is directed out the dash at the front seat occupants, as depicted by the yellow arrows.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



This is the summary of the VW heating and engine cooling system. NOTE: the description of the defroster hoses and dash vents apply to Standard Beetles, and 1971-72 Supers. 1973 and later Supers are similar, but hose routing and and air deflection is different. If someone can explain how the 1973-up Super's defroster is laid out, please pm me and I will edit it in.


11) The "crescents" located behind the rear quarter windiows are also part of the heater system. It is well known and documented that Beetles are sealed well and pretty air-tight. The crescents aid in cabin pressure relief. Without a means of relieving cabin pressure, the cooling fan no longer has the ability to move air once the cabin becomes pressurized. Air travels from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure, so once cabin pressure equals the output of the fan, air flow ceases. Before the addition of the crescents, VW recommended cracking a window open to allow the heater to function more efficiently. The drawback to this was that the hot air would escape the cabin before having a chance to warm most of the interior. By positioning the crescents at the rear of the vehicle, warm air entering the cabin in a direction toward the front of the vehicle would circle the front of the vehicle, then head toward the rear due to the location of the pressure relief. This allowed for more consistent and thorough heating of the interior.


Here is a drawing of the whole heater system at work. The "R" is for rear outlet, the "F' for front, and the "D" for defroster and dash.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



12) Some important notes; The engine compartment needs to be sealed. The inside of the engine compartment needs to be completely separated from underneath the engine compartment. Leaks between the two will result in hot air from under the car being drawn into the fan, potentially causing overheating, as you will be trying to cool the engine with air that is already hot. Another reason to keep them separate is that it is much more likely that exhaust gases will be drawn in by the fan and displaced into the passenger compartment with the heat on. Also do periodic checks to make sure there are no exhaust system leaks, as they will also result in exhaust gases in the car. All the cooling tin needs to be in place for the cooling system to function properly. For the heater to work properly, all the hoses must be installed tight and free of holes. The heater channels are known to be rotted on a fair amount of Beetles, and every rust hole in the heater channel is a place for heat to escape. Another overlooked item is keeping outside air out. Every body leak is another temperature drop the heater has to overcome.


13) There is only one drawback to the air cooled VW heating system, and that is the heater volume is dictated by the speed of the engine. It won't do very much with the engine at idle. But with some skillful driving, these heaters are very effective. Any person who tells you Beetles don't have heat hasn't been in a Beetle with all the parts, whole and in operating condition. First, don't let the car "warm up" for extended periods of time, it won't do you any good. Let it run for a minute or two to let the oil circulate if it makes you feel comfortable, but the interior isn' going to warm up until you drive. When you do drive though, it will warm up quickly, in many cases quicker than a water-cooled car. I have tested it both ways. If you let the car idle to warm up even for ½ hour, the interior may only be 1-2 degrees warmer than the ambient temp. I drive it right away (or as soon as my Webers will idle without my foot on the gas, no chokes). This morning I measured some temps with a meat thermometer, it went as follows: the ambient temp was 59 degrees F. I backed out of the driveway, and headed to the end of my street, which is less than 1/8 mile. I got there by gently extending first gear, then holding second gear to the end of the street (25 mph). By the time I turned off my street, the exit temp at my feet was already 89 degrees F. I stop at Tim Horton's everyday for my coffee before work, which is about another 3/4 of a mile up the road, so I go of to T/H still extending the gears slightly. I'm not racing the engine, just extending the gears a little. I leave it in third (45 mph) until I get to T/H. By now my left ankle is already getting uncomfortably warm, so I'm shifting my left foot around. Exit temp still rising quickly. The engine idles a minute or two as I wait in the drive thru for my coffee. Then I head off to work. It is seven miles to work from my driveway, I have already driven maybe a mile. By the 3.5-4 mile mark, I was starting to get a little too warm, but I kept everything going, just to see. By this time it was 88 degrees F in the car, measured at steering wheel height in front of me. I have holes in the spokes of my steering wheel, so I hung the thermometer there so as not to skew the readings with my body temp. By the time I got to work (7 miles, remember), the interior of the car was (no joke) 100.1 measured at the same spot, with a heater outlet temp of 162.3 degrees F! Granted the ambient temp is not terribly low at 59*, but as the days get colder, I will update the thread with my findings. By the way, I have a Mexican Beetle which doesn't have rear heater outlets, most of you could probably get higher numbers than me by utilizing the rear outlets, because you wouldn't have as much heat dissipation through the rocker panels. Another thing to do is to turn the idle up to about 1000 rpm in the winter, this will help get a little heat while you are sitting in traffic.


If any of you have anything to add, please do. I hope this helps some folks get heat, and dispel the myth the Bugs don't have a heater. Very Happy
Paul
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer


Last edited by Paul Windisch on Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:45 am; edited 18 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Paul Windisch
Samba Member


Joined: September 02, 2009
Posts: 2546
Location: Clinton Township, Michigan
Paul Windisch is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First update today, the ambient temp was 49 degrees when I left for work, reached a cabin temp of 88.6. Had some slow traffic today.
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
marklee
Samba Member


Joined: March 24, 2009
Posts: 821
Location: Flintshire, North Wales
marklee is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well done Paul well written. I have always maintained a beetle heater is better than its contemporaries, the big issue has always been techs and owners playing with systems and parts they had no knowledge of.this should be a sticky and should end debate once and for all

regards

Mark
_________________
CGLI qualified body repair and refinish tech
CGLI qualified motor repair tech
Qualified automotive Glass installer
Motor Insurance Repair and Research Centre,Thatcham, Advanced Vehicle Damage Estimator.
Police qualified vehicle examiner
Police Class 1 High performance, pursuit trained Advanced driver
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Facebook Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tsavman
Samba Member


Joined: March 10, 2010
Posts: 55
Location: Greece
tsavman is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sticky-fie this thread! Smile

Congrats to the author!


Soon I have to crawl underneath my bug to set the heat "on" by opening the flaps, as both control cables are broken. Otherwise, my heating system works pretty fine
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
doc hopper
Samba Member


Joined: December 08, 2006
Posts: 588
Location: California
doc hopper is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:36 am    Post subject: VW Heating and Cooling Reply with quote

This is an informative article that clearly and logically connects the way the whole system works. The problem with most modifications done by non-engineers is that they drill down on one particular aspect and ignore the consequences in removing or adding parts. This is often done because the modification "seems to make sense", the most obvious error being the removal of the stock oil cooler "because it blocks air flow to #3". The design of the vanes and the peculiarity of the distributor specs all work hand in glove to make the stock system operate efficiently. Removing the cooler without compensating for its absence will make the engine run hotter. If an overheated #3 was indeed a design flaw, it should have resulted in hundreds of thousands of engine failures in the stock configuration over the years. This, of course, wasn't the case. Removing the decklid to make the engine run cooler is another example. It seems logical: with the decklid gone, there's nothing to block the air from getting into the fan. Oops.... forgot about eliminating that pesky pressurization. Clever, those German engineers.
_________________
"Honesty hath no fence against superior cunning"
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Paul Windisch
Samba Member


Joined: September 02, 2009
Posts: 2546
Location: Clinton Township, Michigan
Paul Windisch is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the kind replies. When I have some time, I will also add photos that illustrate the description. Stay tuned...
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
bugninva
Samba Member


Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
bugninva is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, wonderful write up... most folks don't have a properly working heater, and therefor all vw's heaters "suck".... I used to think this years ago when all the "gurus' said to toss the thermostat before it burns up your engine.... Confused

winter before last there was a thread where folks were talking how poor the type 1 heater is... I took a short trip to the convenience store that night and measured outlet temperatures with a thermometer... I measured at the defrost outlet of my ghia, and should read lower than the floor outlet, being further away and running into the trunk to get there...

two miles from my home..(it is a 45 mile per hour zone, so it's low in forth gear in my 73 ghia)
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

that's 110F at the defrost

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
at convenience store about 3.5 miles from home, 140F

at 60mph I get a steady 160F from the defrost vents.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

these readings were at about 30F ambient.... in that thread I mentioned that even at colder temps, I'd have no problem riding in my underpants in my ghia... and that's not an exaggeration... that's what a good heating system does... I usually start to cut the heat back at about he two mile mark after leaving my home, and my passenger side heaterbox doesn't open nearly halfway, due to a broken cable and the po rigged up a wire to the broken cable... it works so I haven't replaced it with the new cable I bought four winters ago.. .I'm fast like that!... My ghia is quite drafty due to original window seals that don't fit the glass like they did 35+ years ago... I may place the thermometer somewhere in the open area to get a cabin temperature sometime this winter.. .I have no doubt with leaky window seals and all that it will top 100 degrees in our winter weather with normal driving...
_________________
[email protected] wrote:
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone?


GEX has. Just sayin


Last edited by bugninva on Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Gary
Person of Interest


Joined: November 01, 2002
Posts: 17069
Location: 127.0.0.1
Gary is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bugninva wrote:

these readings were at about 30F ambient.... in that thread I mentioned that even at colder temps, I'd have no problem riding in my underpant in my ghia... and that's not an exaggeration...


OK, that's information I don't think anyone *really* needed to know Confused Laughing
_________________
West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943)
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
bugninva
Samba Member


Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
bugninva is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

true, Gary... forgot to mention shoes and socks.... those little pedals are rough on my feet... Laughing
_________________
[email protected] wrote:
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone?


GEX has. Just sayin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
lupin..the..3rd
Samba Member


Joined: December 28, 2009
Posts: 1800

lupin..the..3rd is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice write-up Paul! Yes, these cars have awesome heat, even in the coldest of winters - so long as all the parts are in place.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Glenn Premium Member
Mr. 010


Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76760
Location: Sneaking up behind you
Glenn is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tsavman wrote:
Sticky-fie this thread! Smile

Congrats to the author!

Done... added to the FAQS / Index.
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tundrawolf
Samba Member


Joined: February 24, 2009
Posts: 1384
Location: RIP Mishomi my friend. I will always love you.
tundrawolf is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul Windisch wrote:
Thanks for the kind replies. When I have some time, I will also add photos that illustrate the description. Stay tuned...


Fantastic write up! My simple brain needs pictures. I will stay tuned!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
bugninva
Samba Member


Joined: December 14, 2004
Posts: 8858
Location: sound it out.
bugninva is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glenn wrote:
tsavman wrote:
Sticky-fie this thread! Smile

Congrats to the author!

Done... added to the FAQS / Index.


if you are gonna do that, you definitely need to remove my and Gary's conversation about my undies...LOL

Embarassed
_________________
[email protected] wrote:
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone?


GEX has. Just sayin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
TonyPgh
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2008
Posts: 1465
Location: Pa.
TonyPgh is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Sep 29, 2010 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh man, thanks for taking the time to do that write up. Outstanding! Very Happy
_________________
1968 Type 1
https://youtube.com/c/SladesVWBeetle
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website Facebook Classifieds Feedback
Paul Windisch
Samba Member


Joined: September 02, 2009
Posts: 2546
Location: Clinton Township, Michigan
Paul Windisch is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just added a section about the function of the crescents, and also numbered the paragraphs for easier reference. I took some photos this morning and will edit them over the next few days (I hope! 4 kids under 6 yrs doesn't leave much free time!). Thanks!
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tele68
Samba Member


Joined: September 18, 2009
Posts: 389
Location: New Jersey
tele68 is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 6:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding work...I just laugh at all the engine bay pics and cars I see at shows with the fresh air outlets plugged with rubber caps, beer cans, etc....my heat and defroster work great on my SB, everything is in place as it should be...
_________________
'72 Super Beetle
Central Jersey Volkswagen Society
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
79SuperVert
Samba Member


Joined: May 31, 2002
Posts: 9758
Location: Elizabeth, NJ & La Isla Del Encanto
79SuperVert is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice job. It's hard to appreciate all the pieces that need to be in place for the VW heater system to work properly when you are looking at an abused / neglected car. Your post puts it all there for someone to see.
_________________
Central Jersey VW Society

Wanted: Art Collins VW (Savannah, Georgia) items - license plate surrounds and other items. Also ivory "AM", "FM" and "SW" buttons for a US Blaupunkt Frankfurt.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
Bctirado
Samba Member


Joined: August 22, 2010
Posts: 36
Location: Hidden Valley Lake, Ca (Northern California)
Bctirado is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great read, I learned a lot.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Paul Windisch
Samba Member


Joined: September 02, 2009
Posts: 2546
Location: Clinton Township, Michigan
Paul Windisch is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics are up!
_________________
*ASE Recertified Master Automotive Tech*

1984 Mexican Beetle
-1914cc
-L3 Heads 35x32 valves 52cc chambers
-0.040" deck for about 9.1:1 Compression
-Engle W110 cam
-CB Super Stock 1.1:1 Rockers
-Stock Heat Exchangers w/ Tri-Mil Muffler
-Dual Weber IDF 40s w/ 26mm venturis
-034 SVDA Distributor

2013 Chevrolet Volt DD
2005 Pontiac Montana SV6

MAHLE Service Solutions
Applications Engineer
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website Gallery Classifieds Feedback
tundrawolf
Samba Member


Joined: February 24, 2009
Posts: 1384
Location: RIP Mishomi my friend. I will always love you.
tundrawolf is offline 

PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2010 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul Windisch wrote:
Pics are up!


I was looking at the pic with the red and yellow arrows and SUDDENLY IT MADE SENSE.

You are the man!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Classifieds Feedback
Display posts from previous:   
Reply to topic    Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time
Page: 1, 2, 3 ... 14, 15, 16  Next
Jump to:
Page 1 of 16

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

About | Help! | Advertise | Donate | Premium Membership | Privacy/Terms of Use | Contact Us | Site Map
Copyright © 1996-2023, Everett Barnes. All Rights Reserved.
Not affiliated with or sponsored by Volkswagen of America | Forum powered by phpBB
Links to eBay or other vendor sites may be affiliate links where the site receives compensation.