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fuse issues
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biglondonbug
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 1:17 pm    Post subject: fuse issues Reply with quote

I have a torpedo fuse(Main beam) That keeps melting the plastic. Fuse doesnt blow. Its an 8 amp. Any help would be great.
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Starbucket
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 1:30 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

I would put in a "white" torpedo fuse 8 amp, or you have a short and a miss labeled fuse. Watch it and have a helper turn on the lights, did the fuse wire get red hot?
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biglondonbug
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 2:21 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

thanks for the reply, I will have a look and get back to you
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biglondonbug
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 2:41 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

thanks for the reply, I will have a look and get back to you
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 4:55 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Posted before, posting again:

Quote:
Even better is to solder up the internal connections in the headlight and fuse box, so both the headlights and all other electrics work better/brighter. With connections having any voltage drops removed the headlight circuits can handle 60 Watt bulbs. USA used 50/55 watt bulbs and we have been using H4 55/60 bulbs for many years and hundreds of thousands of miles.

http://type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483901&highlight=fuse+box+soldering

Make sure you have good clean and dielectric greased electrical connections. Do not forget the grounds!!! Also check voltage at the battery and how much voltage at the headlights with the old bulbs turn on for both voltage measurements. You might be getting say 6.2 volts at the battery with everything off, but only 5.5 volts with headlights turned on. With the load of the headlights any corroded loose connections will heat up and show as even less voltage getting to the headlights, could be a volt or even two less!

Doing all of the above will result in not only brighter headlights, but faster wipers, and brighter turn signals. The easier you can see and easier other drivers can see you and what you are intending to do makes a big difference....


Had voltage drops cause so much heat that one could burn a finger tip on the headlight fuse, and had wiring insulation near the headlight switch actually bubble up.
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2021 8:04 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Posted before, posting again:

Quote:
Even better is to solder up the internal connections in the headlight and fuse box, so both the headlights and all other electrics work better/brighter. With connections having any voltage drops removed the headlight circuits can handle 60 Watt bulbs. USA used 50/55 watt bulbs and we have been using H4 55/60 bulbs for many years and hundreds of thousands of miles.

http://type2.com/library/electris/vw-hauptlicht-schalter.html

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=483901&highlight=fuse+box+soldering

Make sure you have good clean and dielectric greased electrical connections. Do not forget the grounds!!! Also check voltage at the battery and how much voltage at the headlights with the old bulbs turn on for both voltage measurements. You might be getting say 6.2 volts at the battery with everything off, but only 5.5 volts with headlights turned on. With the load of the headlights any corroded loose connections will heat up and show as even less voltage getting to the headlights, could be a volt or even two less!

Doing all of the above will result in not only brighter headlights, but faster wipers, and brighter turn signals. The easier you can see and easier other drivers can see you and what you are intending to do makes a big difference....


Had voltage drops cause so much heat that one could burn a finger tip on the headlight fuse, and had wiring insulation near the headlight switch actually bubble up.


Just because YOU posted it, does not mean it is a good idea.

This subject has been debated in the automotive repair world for decades. Both sides have sound arguments. Being formerly trained in finding oddball, hard to find automotive electrical drivability issues, I can tell you, soldered joints FAIL! And fail at a rate that is astounding.

Instead of soldering, just PROPERLY crimp the connectors with the correct tooling and (this is a BIG one) use the correct size crimp terminal size. SO MANY times I would find a 18ga. or 22ga wire with a crimp made for a 10 or 12 gauge wire. The wire was so small, it would rest LOOSELY in the fold of the terminal but not be crimped tight enough to avoid corrosion to start.

So, if you want proper, long lasting crimps, spend the money for the correct tools and the correct crimps and learn to use them. Your local JC has classes on electronic repairs.

Here is one of over a billion articles about the subject. DO NOT SOLDER AUTOMOTIVE CIRCUIT WIRES

https://millennialdiyer.com/articles/motorcycles/electrical-repair-crimp-or-solder/

GOOD LUCK!
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 8:34 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

I use solder and shrinkwrap when I install a vehicle stereo.

I "might have" done similar when I installed aftermarket cruise control into my 1998 and 2004 Frontiers, can't remember.

I believe that I also soldered an extension wire to the broken oil pressure wire on my 1970 VW.

Most of my crimps have been to install new terminals when I could no longer bend the originals enough to stay connected, or the originals broke off. Yes, having a good crimp tool is important !!!
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 9:23 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

VW_Jimbo wrote:

Instead of soldering, just PROPERLY crimp the connectors with the correct tooling and (this is a BIG one) use the correct size crimp terminal size. SO MANY times I would find a 18ga. or 22ga wire with a crimp made for a 10 or 12 gauge wire. The wire was so small, it would rest LOOSELY in the fold of the terminal but not be crimped tight enough to avoid corrosion to start.


Hi Jimbo! Problem is that we are not advising to solder any of the wiring to the terminals on them in the previous post. Instead it is all about soldering the loose connections INSIDE the fuse box itself (VW started to spot weld those for the 1968 model year), and the riveted connections INSIDE the headlight switch. Please do read up the info thru the links.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:45 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
I use solder and shrinkwrap when I install a vehicle stereo.

I "might have" done similar when I installed aftermarket cruise control into my 1998 and 2004 Frontiers, can't remember.

I believe that I also soldered an extension wire to the broken oil pressure wire on my 1970 VW.

Most of my crimps have been to install new terminals when I could no longer bend the originals enough to stay connected, or the originals broke off. Yes, having a good crimp tool is important !!!


That is fine. But it is a failed connection! Time after time, this method of repair for automotive wiring has proven it is not suited for the environment. Better suited is a crimped connection. When properly crimped, the joints are water proof and air tight. That equals no water intrusion in any state of matter! That’s a big one!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 10:52 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
VW_Jimbo wrote:

Instead of soldering, just PROPERLY crimp the connectors with the correct tooling and (this is a BIG one) use the correct size crimp terminal size. SO MANY times I would find a 18ga. or 22ga wire with a crimp made for a 10 or 12 gauge wire. The wire was so small, it would rest LOOSELY in the fold of the terminal but not be crimped tight enough to avoid corrosion to start.


Hi Jimbo! Problem is that we are not advising to solder any of the wiring to the terminals on them in the previous post. Instead it is all about soldering the loose connections INSIDE the fuse box itself (VW started to spot weld those for the 1968 model year), and the riveted connections INSIDE the headlight switch. Please do read up the info thru the links.


Thank you for saying it! Even with those connections, corrosion has already set in after the manufacturing process. Full disassembly would be required for a proper soldered joint to work! This is my point!

Sometimes a good bath in vinegar is what is needed to clean all of the contact surfaces. It will wick into the riveted sandwich and neutralize the corrosion. Then, being Uber careful. Punch the connections tight. That’s it! Anything further is a moisture trap. Well, unless you are using a clean room to carry your rebuilding within. Then I would agree to solder the joints up! Because then it is a circuit board!
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TDCTDI wrote:
Basically, a whole bunch of fuckery to achieve a look.


67rustavenger wrote:
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Last edited by VW_Jimbo on Sun Jul 04, 2021 12:11 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kreemoweet
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 11:01 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

biglondonbug wrote:
I have a torpedo fuse(Main beam) That keeps melting the plastic. Fuse doesnt blow. Its an 8 amp. Any help would be great.


Well, that's easy to solve: just dump all your crappy Chinese fuses with plastic bodies, and get real ceramic-bodied ones. Y'know, the ones that actually blow
somewhere near their rated capacity, unlike the c.C. ones.
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2021 11:10 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Just in case the OP has not seen this among many need to read threads in the "FAQs" at the top of the forum.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938

If one has junk replacement wiring terminals that are just crimped on with a pair of pliers they will cause voltage drops and hot points in the wiring.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 8:52 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

To the OP, check and clean all the wiring connections to reduce the resistance. Unfortunately, most of our Beetles with the original wiring are well over 40yrs old. The wires and connectors have had plenty of time to oxidize. This will increase the resistance in the circuit. Higher resistance will result in more heat in the wiring. This is likely what is causing the fuses and terminals in the fuse box to heat up and melt the plastic bodies.

Get some sandpaper and wire brushes. Remove each wire terminal and polish up the contact surfaces to reduce the resistance. Do this at every connection point. Especially look at the ground wires and their connection to the body/ground point.
Also, look at the wire strands in the terminal. If they look like this (note the darker color of the oxidized wire strands compared to the shinny copper at the tips where they were cut):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Consider snipping off the end, cutting the wire insulation back a few mm and find shinny fresh copper to crimp new terminal ends to. This will improve the connection between the wire and the terminal.

Another option, here is a post about using vinegar/salt to clean wire ends:
tzepesh wrote:
I would recommend cleaning ALL contacts, something to do in any car from time to time. Especially if it is in work. Simple solution: vinegar and salt in one small glass and baking soda with water in another one. Put the connector in vinegar for 2 minutes. Move it to the baking soda cup. It helps if you stir with the cable/connector, it will come clean faster. The baking soda in water neutralizes the acid (vinegar). It also helps to brush a bit with a toothbrush. The solution also enters the cable strand and cleans under the crimp.
Here is the difference on the same cable, opposite ends.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 9:08 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Plus after cleaning all connections, use a dielectric grease to coat the connectors to keep the surfaces from corroding all too soon again. Moisture likes to get into tight places and cause even more corrosion, so the grease takes up that tiny space not allowing water in.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 10:45 am    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Plus after cleaning all connections, use a dielectric grease to coat the connectors to keep the surfaces from corroding all too soon again. Moisture likes to get into tight places and cause even more corrosion, so the grease takes up that tiny space not allowing water in.


Agreed! But in moderation. Use just enough to lightly cover the male connector. Then slide it in. Too much dielectric grease will cause issues as well.

It is the same thinking, as found in life.....Moderator is the key!
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 1:14 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

My Uncle Sam taught me that solder seals a mechanical connection.

I push the centers out of crimp butt connectors, crimp, then solder, and then cover in shrink tubing. Cool

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2021 1:21 pm    Post subject: Re: fuse issues Reply with quote

^^^
I took an electrical class in JC and we were taught solder is not a great connector so it is used to "can" a shinny metal to metal joint.
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