Holes from absent heater boxes

[salvaged_pinkslip]

Does anyone have a suggestion for how to close the holes left in the engine compartment when the heater boxes are removed?

Also - can the engine compartment seals be replaced with the engine in place?

Thanks

[NeverHadaBeetle]

The engine has to be installed to completely install the seal so yes it can be done. Even if you attach the seal around the tin before installing the engine, you still have to connect it to the engine compartment after the engine is installed.

I use metal tape or aluminum tape to cover holes like the ones you ask about. You can usually find the tape in the auto body department in a parts store. I degrease and clean really well around the hole then apply the tape. You can then paint over the tape with black paint so it looks better. You may even want to use two overlapping pieces. There may be better ways of doing this, but this method works well for me. Good luck.
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[jeremysmithatshawdotca]

You can get the same aluminum tape a lot cheaper in the heating/cooling duct section of a hardware store like home depot. And no, we're not talking about duct tape, the glue on duct tape would melt in about ten seconds! You can slide the engine compartment seal on and into place with the engine in place. It would probably be easiest though to put a length of rope into each slot in the seal, put the seal roughly in place under the tin, and pull the ropes to force the top of the seal up through the crack, just like putting a windshield in. Jeremy

[keifernet]

the seal thing depends upon the year, I guarantee you will not get a 71 -earlier seal in that way! 72- later foam style yes with the engine in.

earlier.... engine out is best/ easisest
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[salvaged_pinkslip]

Thanks for the tip on aluminum tape.

'70 - bummer about the seal.

[breadloafdeluxe]

You have to take the bumper off,then the apron to get the engine seal around a type1 engine in a bus. It has a guide you have to slide the seal through.Once the bumper and apron are off,check the guide for flattened spots and pry them open with a putty knife or screw driver,spray the seal channel with WD-40 to make it travel easy.
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[keifernet]

Breadloaf is right, I should not have stated it could only be done on the 71-earlier only with the engine out

(on a bug is is almost a neccesity,but even then if you messed with it long enough you probably could)

However on the upright engine bus the seal is cut into 3 parts... one down each side of the cylinder tin and one that stays in the removable rear apron.

So yes you can do it... just like Breadloaf says!
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"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait!

[salvaged_pinkslip]

Thanks.

Looks like I have my next job after the windshield cut out for me. I imagine West Coast Metrics the best source for the engine seals. Right?

BTW - Keifernet, I used your instructions on fixing the rust under the windshield, but I didn't have big enough holes to need the foam. They were small enough to fill with that long-fiber reinforced Bondo. [That is some wierd stuff!] The proof will be in the reinstallation, but I'm still haunting the junkyards to find a better windshield that the one I took out.

[keifernet]

Cool, I don't recognize the new login so I assume you e-mailed me for the text and pics for that repair?

Glad to hear the holes weren't large enough to require that part.

If you ground it all down and chemically treated it, the "dynaglass/kittyhair" stuff is really good filler. and if you did not build it up too high the glass should go back in sweet.

BTW here is a post in which I gave a good description that may help you with the install of the fron glass...

http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?s=&threadid=42474
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"STFU Polly and go eat a cracker!" 12-21-2012.... can't wait!

[salvaged_pinkslip]

Yup. Got the email from you over a year ago and finally got around to doing it. Did the grinding/sanding, POR 50, kitty hair, surface coat of plain filler, and the grey primer deal.

BUT!

Hard lesson learned from today's expedition to the junkyard. Suffice it to say, next time I go looking for glass, I'm taking the "windex" with me. There's no extra charge and if you don't find the parts, you can always use it to clean the stamp off your hand.

[regalasr]

To close the holes in the engine compartment, go to the plumbing section of your Home Depot or similar. They sell these metal plugs or cap looking things for covering the holes in a sink where a faucet or similar would be installed. The one I used was galvanized, and had tabs running around the perimiter of the cap. You just put the cap in the hole and from the bottom, bend back the tabs so the cap will stay put. I don't remember the dimension of the one I used, you will have to take a measurement, they have several sizes. Paint the thing before you install it, looks very clean when installed.