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Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder
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RemainsHuman
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:22 pm    Post subject: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder Reply with quote

Hey Guys. This is my first post here on The Samba and Also my First VW project. Im having an issue getting my Brake Lights to work. I bought the car with out them working. (The Lights themselves work) i have checked. I have 3 wires running to the master cylinder 1 Red(going to the fuse box-Hot when ign is on) and 2 White(going to the taillights). One sending unit is a 3 prong and one is a 2 prong. Can someone help me out? Thanks Guys. Also any PALMDALE CA people on here??
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the 3-prong switch, the terminals at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock are for the brake lights in the rear, the switch makes continuity there when the pedal is depressed. One of the wires to there should be hot (12 volt positive) when the ignition is on. The terminal at 6 o'clock is for the dash brake warning light.

The 2-prong switch is from an older year, again continuity there between the two terminals when the pedal is depressed.
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RemainsHuman
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So where would the red(hot wire) go?
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pafree
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is no way original but you can make it work. if the two prong switch is working then you can put the hot (red) wire on one side and splice the two (white) wires together if indeed they are going to the brake lights.

if you want to do it back to original then here is a borrow wiring diagram.

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ashman40
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 4:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would add that without TWO working 3-prong brake switches the brake warning circuit will not work properly. In the case of your setup... if the front brake circuit failed, the warning light would work, but if the rear failed... no light.

I'd pick up a new 3-prong switch, install it and wire the system according to the diagram (ignoring the wire colors indicated in the diagram).
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
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'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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heimlich Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder Reply with quote

This worked well for me. I have a 71 with the two prong switch. I hooked up the one closest to the front of the car only. Just take a volt meter to the wires and you can figure out which is the power.
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huthuthut
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder Reply with quote

I'm having brake light issues as well.

I'm restoring my 71 super and the brake lights weren't working at all. Had a two prong switch on the rear part of the master cylinder. Replaced with a three prong switch. Now the lights are on when the car is on but go out when I press the brake pedal.

I'm very much a newbie mechanic and this restoration is driving me nuts

Also, when I connect the wires to my horn it sounds when I hit the bright/dim lever. No sound from the steering wheel.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 9:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder Reply with quote

huthuthut wrote:
I'm having brake light issues as well.

I'm restoring my 71 super and the brake lights weren't working at all. Had a two prong switch on the rear part of the master cylinder. Replaced with a three prong switch. Now the lights are on when the car is on but go out when I press the brake pedal.

What you need to realize with the brake switches....
I get the impression that many people have the wrong impression on how the brake switches work. Normal convention when there is a switch with one input and two outputs is that the power coming into the common input side (outer contacts with pivot in the above pic) and then flowing out one of the two outputs. This is NOT how the Beetle brake switches work.
Power comes into what you might consider one of the output contacts (82a)... the "normally open" (NO) contact. The rear brake lights are connected to the common terminal (81). The brake warning light is connected to the side of the switch that is "normally closed" (NC)(81a).

My thoughts are you have the brake switch mis-wired... or you might have a bad switch which doesn't operate as expected. Compare your wiring to the above diagram. Note that the two switches are NOT mirror images as the above diagram makes it seem. Look at the "view of the switch prongs" to determine the proper terminal numbers then wire according to the numbers.


huthuthut wrote:
I'm very much a newbie mechanic and this restoration is driving me nuts

Also, when I connect the wires to my horn it sounds when I hit the bright/dim lever. No sound from the steering wheel.

There should be two brown wires and one brown/white wire coming from the steering column into the trunk area. One brown wire and the brown/white are are paired together. If you test the brown/white wire for continuity you should find that when the turn signal lever is pulled it is connected to one of the brown wires. This pair is for the headlight dimmer switch. The brown wire goes to a ground point and the brown/white goes to the "S" terminal on the dimmer relay.

The remaining brown wire is for the horn circuit. It connects to the steering shaft and the steering wheel. The steering wheel is half of the horn switch. The other half is the horn button/ring. You can confirm if you have the correct brown wire by testing that there is continuity between the brown wire and the steering wheel (exposed metal). Once you are sure you have the correct brown wire connect it to horn (-) terminal. Now, anytime the ignition switch is ON and the steering wheel is grounded the horn should sound.
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road Sad }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}
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