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RemainsHuman Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Palmdale
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:22 pm Post subject: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder |
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Hey Guys. This is my first post here on The Samba and Also my First VW project. Im having an issue getting my Brake Lights to work. I bought the car with out them working. (The Lights themselves work) i have checked. I have 3 wires running to the master cylinder 1 Red(going to the fuse box-Hot when ign is on) and 2 White(going to the taillights). One sending unit is a 3 prong and one is a 2 prong. Can someone help me out? Thanks Guys. Also any PALMDALE CA people on here?? |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31379 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 6:51 pm Post subject: |
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On the 3-prong switch, the terminals at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock are for the brake lights in the rear, the switch makes continuity there when the pedal is depressed. One of the wires to there should be hot (12 volt positive) when the ignition is on. The terminal at 6 o'clock is for the dash brake warning light.
The 2-prong switch is from an older year, again continuity there between the two terminals when the pedal is depressed. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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RemainsHuman Samba Member
Joined: October 13, 2010 Posts: 6 Location: Palmdale
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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So where would the red(hot wire) go? |
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pafree Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2005 Posts: 2298 Location: dayton, the one in texas
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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2010 8:50 pm Post subject: |
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this is no way original but you can make it work. if the two prong switch is working then you can put the hot (red) wire on one side and splice the two (white) wires together if indeed they are going to the brake lights.
if you want to do it back to original then here is a borrow wiring diagram.
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Sat Nov 13, 2010 4:06 am Post subject: |
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I would add that without TWO working 3-prong brake switches the brake warning circuit will not work properly. In the case of your setup... if the front brake circuit failed, the warning light would work, but if the rear failed... no light.
I'd pick up a new 3-prong switch, install it and wire the system according to the diagram (ignoring the wire colors indicated in the diagram). _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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heimlich VWNOS.com
Joined: November 20, 2016 Posts: 6621 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder |
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This worked well for me. I have a 71 with the two prong switch. I hooked up the one closest to the front of the car only. Just take a volt meter to the wires and you can figure out which is the power. |
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huthuthut Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2017 Posts: 1 Location: La
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Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 7:05 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder |
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I'm having brake light issues as well.
I'm restoring my 71 super and the brake lights weren't working at all. Had a two prong switch on the rear part of the master cylinder. Replaced with a three prong switch. Now the lights are on when the car is on but go out when I press the brake pedal.
I'm very much a newbie mechanic and this restoration is driving me nuts
Also, when I connect the wires to my horn it sounds when I hit the bright/dim lever. No sound from the steering wheel. |
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15987 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Tue Jul 04, 2017 9:11 pm Post subject: Re: Brake Light Wiring issues at Master Cylinder |
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huthuthut wrote: |
I'm having brake light issues as well.
I'm restoring my 71 super and the brake lights weren't working at all. Had a two prong switch on the rear part of the master cylinder. Replaced with a three prong switch. Now the lights are on when the car is on but go out when I press the brake pedal. |
What you need to realize with the brake switches....
I get the impression that many people have the wrong impression on how the brake switches work. Normal convention when there is a switch with one input and two outputs is that the power coming into the common input side (outer contacts with pivot in the above pic) and then flowing out one of the two outputs. This is NOT how the Beetle brake switches work.
Power comes into what you might consider one of the output contacts (82a)... the "normally open" (NO) contact. The rear brake lights are connected to the common terminal (81). The brake warning light is connected to the side of the switch that is "normally closed" (NC)(81a).
My thoughts are you have the brake switch mis-wired... or you might have a bad switch which doesn't operate as expected. Compare your wiring to the above diagram. Note that the two switches are NOT mirror images as the above diagram makes it seem. Look at the "view of the switch prongs" to determine the proper terminal numbers then wire according to the numbers.
huthuthut wrote: |
I'm very much a newbie mechanic and this restoration is driving me nuts
Also, when I connect the wires to my horn it sounds when I hit the bright/dim lever. No sound from the steering wheel. |
There should be two brown wires and one brown/white wire coming from the steering column into the trunk area. One brown wire and the brown/white are are paired together. If you test the brown/white wire for continuity you should find that when the turn signal lever is pulled it is connected to one of the brown wires. This pair is for the headlight dimmer switch. The brown wire goes to a ground point and the brown/white goes to the "S" terminal on the dimmer relay.
The remaining brown wire is for the horn circuit. It connects to the steering shaft and the steering wheel. The steering wheel is half of the horn switch. The other half is the horn button/ring. You can confirm if you have the correct brown wire by testing that there is continuity between the brown wire and the steering wheel (exposed metal). Once you are sure you have the correct brown wire connect it to horn (-) terminal. Now, anytime the ignition switch is ON and the steering wheel is grounded the horn should sound. _________________ AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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