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69 bug spark plugs - W7CC or WR8AC+
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Swill
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 9:30 pm    Post subject: 69 bug spark plugs - W7CC or WR8AC+ Reply with quote

Hi all -

I recently picked up a 69 Bug as a project car for my son and I. I picked up some WR8AC+ spark plugs, which are supposed to be the correct ones, but the plugs that were in the engine were W7CC, which have a longer nose. Anyone have an idea why this might be so?

Thanks in advance...
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If someone put replacement cylinder heads with long-reach holes for spark plugs, then you need the longer plugs. I'd at least check out what sort of casting/part number your cylinder heads have - you'll have to remove the valve covers to see them in cast into the heads above/between the pushrod tubes for the intake valves.
-Andy


Last edited by glutamodo on Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:08 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Swill
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 01, 2011 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the quick reply! From what I know of the history of the car it would make sense.

I'll take a look at the number on the heads and get back to you.

Cheers,

Swill
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Swill
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, I'll try this again.

The head on the left has the part number of 040.101.375.2, with a large number 60 underneath and 2BR to the left.

The head on the right has 113.101.375.A, with 161 underneath. it is this head that I pulled the W7CC plug from

Thanks!
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norcalmike
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have auto linea G01 head (040) and they have the short reach plugs.
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Swill
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've not pulled a plug on the left side yet (040); they may well be short with my luck...
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norcalmike
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

long reach plugs will fit in a short reach hole without hitting the pistons. is the motor out of this car?
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Swill
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, not yet. It was running well but then started lugging and running rough. I do not know the full history of this car so I thought I would start with a tuneup and go from there...

If the heads need long plugs but short ones are installed, will that cause any issue?

Thanks!
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Swill
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, went in to my local VW guru's shop and he happened to have a 040 head and we confirmed that it should be a short plug.

He also warned me that with two different head I could run into issues with different compression ratios...

thanks all for your help!
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 05, 2011 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's right about that. But one thing I'd make a note of. I read somewhere the that the heads I have on my 1600DP - with casting number 043101375H were supposed to be long-plug-thread heads. Well mine are definately not - and I got mine new from CB many years ago. So I'm thinking its possible to have the same general casting number on the head, yet have different attributes such as how it's set up for compression and for plug threads.

-Andy
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rolling Eyes Take a length of coat hanger, bend a short 90 on the end. Stick it in the spark plug hole. Slide it up till the 90 hits the 'top' of the combustion chamber. Take a sharpie and mark the coat hanger even with the cooling tin. Take the 'tool' out and then put the 90 against the spark plug seat. The distance between the mark and the cooling tin will be the reach of the plug threads.
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ashman40
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice article in recent Hot VW magazine on the variety of heads out there.

Notice that there are only three types of spark plug holes listed in the article for stock/street heads:
    12mm x 3/4"
    14mm x 1/2" (stock)
    14mm x 3/4"


The problem with using the wrong length plugs...

Short plug in Long plug head - the spark is shrouded so ignition is compromised. Worse, you will get carbon build up on the lower threads in the head (someone had this problem recently). If you later try to install the proper length plugs without first running a tap thru the hole to clean up the threads, you will probably damage the head. At a minimum. you probably won't get the plugs to seal. Worse case, you cause a chunk of the head to break off into the combustion chamber as you screw in the correct length plugs.

Long plug in a Short plug head - you may have piston slap as the piston rises and hits the plug. But even if you don't, the exposed spark plug thread inside the combustion chamber will get coated with baked on carbon. The next time you remove that plug it will gall the spark plug threads in the head on the way out.


Bottom line... use the correct size spark plugs. Smile
Here's a pic from the gallery of a proper spark plug-to-head match:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Notice there are no exposed threads from either the plug or the head.
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Swill
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 7:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic idea! I'll give it a shot!
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candymustang65
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice Ashman .
But understand that the exposed thread on the plugg is thin < getts really glowing hot .
On the compression stroke gas and air are compressed .
But before fully compressed the thread of the plugg glowing sett's it off causeing predetonation .
There's actually several theory's on what exactly happen's and many article's have been written on the subject from V8 muscle to 2 stroke dirt bikes full circle to aluminum head's on Honda car's , and last but not least V.W . T-1 .
Example : When is an ember thread of a plugg most likely to cause predetonation fully compressed or partially compressed ?
Add CCR to the eqausion etc.
Type of plug reach + Hot or cold plug .
Now letts Turbo charge that puppy etc.
Lott's of articles on lott's of theory even Nano technology now play's a part in this subject .
Head configuration - C.B. wedge matte head's V.S. 041 cast , Hemi Cutt head's etc .
Rocket Science for the common Man .
1/2 a thread exposed intoo the combustion chamber is acceptable for most application's in T-1 is my basic understanding or guide line .
How ever im not a big fann of tappin or runnin a tapp on plug hole's on aluminum head's unless no other choice .
Instead I use the old plug after a light wheel brush of the thread's then I spray thread's with carb spray .
Useing a peice of rubber hose as an extension I will runn the wett threaded plug in and out few times on the used crushed washerd old plugg .
Lett dry then use aluminum based anti seize on High dollar head's or copper based anti seize is fine in a pinch for stock heads or cast iron head's etc.
Sean
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Swill
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, finally pulled and replaced the rest of the plugs, and it turns out that only #1 plug was long (W7CC), the rest were correct (W8AC).

As i recall the W indicates the thread diameter, the number is the heat range, the next character is the length ,the final is the electrode composition.

Thanks all for your help! Now that I have swapped out the points for an electronic ignition and put in new distributor cap, coil, and wires, i need to time it, compression check, oil change, etc...

I am sure that you'll be hearing from me again...

Cheers!
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Swill
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, have been taking the engine apart and found out why the #1 plug had a long nose. Looks like the threads must have galled or stripped and the threads were replaced with a long insert that stood proud of the seat. Heads will soon be going with the rest of the engine off to the machine shop...
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