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maboyce
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 182
Location: Olympia, WA
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 Posted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 9:23 am Post subject: |
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| 1970VWGUY wrote: |
I have a question that's been bugging me...no pun intended...with all the crap you put on all the joints from those tubes of stuff....why and how could any oil be leaking unless that stuff is worthless...
And I thought that's what gaskets were for ...to seal the mating surfaces...some gaskets do not require any type of stuff on them...
Not being smart just trying to understand what's going wrong with all the leakage.. |
Hylomar did stop it...I don't really know why there was so much trouble. Some people say they install the sump plate dry and have no leaks. I think the mating surface on the case needs to be quite smooth for that, which it wasn't on this engine. A hardening sealant or RTV would have worked the first time, but then the strainer plate couldn't be easily removed any more. |
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mfergel
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Joined: July 24, 2013
Posts: 247
Location: Richmond, VA
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Kiptere
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Joined: February 13, 2013
Posts: 419
Location: Houston
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| Posted: Mon Sep 30, 2013 4:41 am Post subject: |
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Your whole engine is basically glued together. The guy on the Bug Me videos doesn't use that much crap out of a tube. Over kill with the "glue." VW's are simple machines. You don't need all that.
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whirlpool
Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010
Posts: 84
Location: Keller
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| Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 10:33 am Post subject: |
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| Kiptere wrote: |
| Your whole engine is basically glued together. The guy on the Bug Me videos doesn't use that much crap out of a tube. Over kill with the "glue." VW's are simple machines. You don't need all that. |
does it leak? No. cool....
does it leak? Yes. ah crap, need more glue....
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Kiptere
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Joined: February 13, 2013
Posts: 419
Location: Houston
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| Posted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 9:08 am Post subject: |
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Yea, but he used all that glue and it still leaked like a sieve the first time he got it all back together. Kind of negates your theory.
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mrkotfw
Samba Member
Joined: June 10, 2013
Posts: 223
Location: Bay Area (California)
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 12:18 am Post subject: |
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Subscribed.
Amazing thread. Amazing work.
Unfortunately, as someone who knows very little about cars (see my threads), this deterred me (with good reason) from rebuilding my engine.
At some point, I will rebuild my engine. |
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BugMan114
Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2007
Posts: 3744
Location: Ellenwood, GA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 28, 2014 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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Awesome thread. But I've never used any kind of sealant on the pushrod tube seals, valve cover gaskets, or pretty much anywhere. With all the paper gaskets, I dab them with some oil, just enough to change the color. and they have never leaked. the only place I used sealant on was the cylinder bases. I just used that gasginach stuff. But the only gasket related leak I had was a valve cover, but it turned out the bail had been stretched out a tad too much, and wasn't putting enough pressure on the valve cover. I learned that if you can put the bail over the valve cover by hand, its stretched out and will cause it to leak.
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Why the hell do they call it a gland nut. its obviously a big fat bolt!!! |
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tisius
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Joined: July 11, 2011
Posts: 1570
Location: Rotterdam,NL (+Chicago,IL)
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 3:02 am Post subject: |
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very informative thread!!!!! 
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you don't have to be crazy to be into VW's, but it sure helps!!
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Shakezilla
Samba Member
Joined: August 07, 2013
Posts: 42
Location: Tucson
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| Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 11:03 am Post subject: |
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| Great thread, I'm starting my first rebuild in the next couple weeks and this will absolutely be in my library. |
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66KG
Samba Member
Joined: April 30, 2014
Posts: 1
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:27 am Post subject: |
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Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
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johnnypan
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2007
Posts: 7431
Location: sackamenna
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| Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 5:52 am Post subject: |
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| 66KG wrote: |
Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
Properly assembled with assembly lubricant the correct procedure for the lubrication system is as follows...
turn the ignition key,start engine,oil pressure light goes out.
This whole thread wonderfully details how to assemble a vw engine using the same techniques one uses assembling a model airplane...clean and glue the parts..for a visual reference it is great,for an actual technical guide its worthless.. |
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Lebleboojian
Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010
Posts: 56
Location: New Jersey
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 4:14 am Post subject: head nuts |
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| do you use loctite on the head nuts to keep them from loosening? If not, when do you retorque the heads? |
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aprophet
Samba Member
Joined: August 11, 2013
Posts: 78
Location: chesapeake bay
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| Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2014 9:02 am Post subject: |
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| johnnypan wrote: |
| 66KG wrote: |
Excellent thread, I'm currently using this info for my 1600 single port rebuild.
Just one observation (unless I missed it) you didn't appear to Establish oil pressure and prime the engine before firing;
Found the instruction below;
Remove the spark plugs and oil pressure switch.
Note: Keep the spark plugs out until later; if they are in, remove them. The reason the spark plugs and oil pressure switch are removed (or left out) is that you do not want the connecting rod or main bearings "loaded" during the "dry" period that exists before oil pressure is achieved. It is only after oil pressure is achieved that the spark plugs should be in place during cranking.
Prime the oil pump with a few squirts of oil into the pump outlet (by way of the hole for the oil pressure switch.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and place the end in appropriate contain to catch the gas that will squirt from the fuel pump during cranking.
Get into the driver's seat and put the key in the ignition. Crank the engine over until oil squirts out the oil pressure switch hole and gas squirts out of the end of the fuel line.
Install the oil pressure switch, and connect the oil pressure switch wire.
Continue cranking until the oil indicator light in the instrument cluster goes out, then continue cranking for another 10 seconds or so. The oil system of the engine is now ready. |
Properly assembled with assembly lubricant the correct procedure for the lubrication system is as follows...
turn the ignition key,start engine,oil pressure light goes out.
This whole thread wonderfully details how to assemble a vw engine using the same techniques one uses assembling a model airplane...clean and glue the parts..for a visual reference it is great,for an actual technical guide its worthless.. |
Is there a better thread for technical guidance ?? thanks |
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NewVWFan
Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2005
Posts: 159
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| Posted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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| Great thread, answered a number of my questions. |
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Andy Schneider
Samba Member
Joined: May 20, 2014
Posts: 41
Location: Detroit
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| Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 9:03 am Post subject: |
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| subscribed. This is great! |
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VolkDubz
Samba Member
Joined: October 10, 2005
Posts: 906
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| Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 9:46 pm Post subject: |
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Amazing walkthrough, thanks for the pictures and helpful information.  |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Sorry if this is a stupid question, but do you do anything with the inside of the valve covers? I'm rebuilding mine and finally starting to paint the tins, but hesitant to put any kind of paint on the inside of the engine, should I just sand it with 220 and make sure its all nice and clean and only paint the outside? |
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Zundfolge1432 
Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2004
Posts: 12467
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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| eschmi wrote: |
| Sorry if this is a stupid question, but do you do anything with the inside of the valve covers? I'm rebuilding mine and finally starting to paint the tins, but hesitant to put any kind of paint on the inside of the engine, should I just sand it with 220 and make sure its all nice and clean and only paint the outside? |
That's correct no paint on the inside of the valve covers. I would not sand it if its dirty wash it in a parts cleaner. If its really bad you can bead blast, a cheap way out on cleaning is to use easy off oven cleaner. Follow the label directions its bad shit if it gets on skin or eyes. Quality paint such as rust oleum is a good choice and you can re touch later as needed. The powder coat everything deep pocket crowd here will advocate using that but stick with the paint. Powder coat usually gets too think and makes for fitment issues. It's also expensive, leave that to the silk stocking boys  |
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eschmi
Samba Member
Joined: April 22, 2014
Posts: 164
Location: Illinois
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| Posted: Sun Jun 28, 2015 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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| alright thanks! unfortunately I already sand blasted the whole thing :/ so I guess ill just sand the inside with 220 and clean it really, Really well lol |
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ashman40
Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007
Posts: 15982
Location: North Florida, USA
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| Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:49 am Post subject: |
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| eschmi wrote: |
| alright thanks! unfortunately I already sand blasted the whole thing :/ so I guess ill just sand the inside with 220 and clean it really, Really well lol |
If you sandblasted the whole thing why would you need to do anything other than paint the outside. The reason you don't want to paint the inside of the covers is because the heat and oil will strip the paint and add it into the crankcase oil supply. There the paint flakes will circulate throughout the engine gumming things up. You don't want that.
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