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Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step
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Hugging Corners
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Joined: June 17, 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i want moore!!
man you made it so easy better than manual that you studied from:)
i see that you used lots of chemicals to clean the motor. Grime is my worst nightmare, i cant stand it.
I have to try simple green, so far have been using mild paint stripper and denatured alcohol minute after to clean the case, dont know if its unhealthy for aluminum case, but instant effect.

for pitted metal oxalic acid (hope name is right- so called wood bleach) bath. Overnight this acid dissolves all the rust, but its so mild it can leave plastic and even stickers intact.

...just wanted add 2 cent, but you are making sweet 1600dp rebuild document!
HxC
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dawerks
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent! Smile

Newbie Question; Did the machinist give you the bearings when the work was done? How about the cam bearings?
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torsionbar
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flyboat wrote:
If the job is worth doing, its worth doing right. It looks good

this x1000. do it right the first time. no point in doing it any other way.

nice work and nice photos!
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dawerks wrote:

Newbie Question; Did the machinist give you the bearings when the work was done? How about the cam bearings?


I just went and bought them from a VW shop called Autosport. They get them from Northwest Connecting Rod in south Seattle. Cam bearings too - but they're standard size, as they usually are.
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KingAir42
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 16, 2011 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

great work so far.
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bladerunner80
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 21, 2011 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is awesome! I just picked up a complete 1600 Dual Port off craigslist last week that I'm going to rebuild. I've never rebuilt an engine before, so I picked up the "How To Rebuild Your Volkswagen Engine" book.

I'll be referring to your thread a lot when I start tearing into later this week!
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cutter8174
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 22, 2011 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love this posting its so helpful with my own build for the first time also.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm out of town until May, so no updates till then. Sorry everyone.
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Aynthm
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 2:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

maboyce wrote:
I'm out of town until May, so no updates till then. Sorry everyone.


I was hoping there would be a conclusion to this post!
May came and went.
Whatever happened to "maboyce" and his engine?
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JimmyBK
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aynthm wrote:
maboyce wrote:
I'm out of town until May, so no updates till then. Sorry everyone.


I was hoping there would be a conclusion to this post!
May came and went.
Whatever happened to "maboyce" and his engine?


My bet is, he got back & finished it, but rather than showing the end on the internet he took it out for a ride and never came back on the internet
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MrVWGuy
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JimmyBK wrote:
Aynthm wrote:
maboyce wrote:
I'm out of town until May, so no updates till then. Sorry everyone.


I was hoping there would be a conclusion to this post!
May came and went.
Whatever happened to "maboyce" and his engine?


My bet is, he got back & finished it, but rather than showing the end on the internet he took it out for a ride and never came back on the internet


Or possibly some of the gobs of blue RTV that was used found it's way into an oil gallery, plugging it up & causing a bearing or two to spin... Rolling Eyes
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Glenn73
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WHY so much Permatex? Shocked
I use literally almost none around the base of cylinders only.
And WOW with that engine assembly lube your putting A LOT of graphite in your motor.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sad to say what happened is that the author went back to school, so all of his time and money went away. I did get as far as putting the exhaust on, but then discovered that the decked heads I inherited messed with the geometry enough that I couldn't get it to go on properly. I didn't really want to use those heads anyway (this is not a motor to run at higher-than-stock compression; it was a pretty tired case and crank), but I didn't have money for others and had no time to monkey with bending up the stock muffler to make it fit.

I do have pictures of everything up to that point...maybe I'll try to write up the rest of what I have during vacation. If some altruist wants to trade stock dual port heads for my cut ones, things might proceed again.
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Aynthm
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, sorry to hear that. Anyway, you can still finish oneday.
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beetleman217
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does Thrust Cut mean? I understand that Align Boring is grinding material from the case where the bearings sit, in order to have an aligned passage for the crank. But thrust cut means what?
Thanks
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DesertBob
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 15, 2012 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote sticky for this thread. Awesome details and thank you for your hard work and effort.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm back. I cut up my car and hauled it away, because it had accident damage and I realised it didn't really pay to fix it, but I still have two engines worth of parts. So I'm going to finish this one, and one more, for the experience and to get the stuff out of the garage.

Part of the reason it took me so long to finish this is that I used the wrong sealant on the case halves and a few other places - hardening brown shellac-based stuff that, according to the Samba, gets ground into powder as the case halves expand and contract over and over again. I had the short block put together, but I stripped it back down completely and got out the lacquer thinner.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Not fun. I even removed the pressure-relief valves and all the silicone used there and around the cylinder studs. I had to take the case halves back to the machine shop to go through the wash tank again because little crumbs of sealer got everywhere when I opened the case.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pressure relief valves

The procedure was the same as last time, save that I used a brush to apply sealer - much neater and less dangerous.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also used new aluminum sealing rings from the gasket set (from two gasket sets, actually; they only come with one).

The valve, spring, and plug were lubricated and installed at the pulley end...

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...and at the flywheel end.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sealing studs

I re-sealed the cylinder stud holes with blue RTV, with a brush this time.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Main bearing stud sealing rings

New main bearing stud sealing rings were installed dry.

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