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Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Distributor drive shaft

Before installing the distributor drive, I had to check the end play between the drive and the case with the distributor installed. I put the drive shaft into the case, with its shims, and installed the distributor after it without the spring that goes between them. I used a feeler gauge between the shims and the case to check the clearance. The Wilson book says that clearance should be between 0.020" - 0.050" (0.50 - 1.25 mm? I couldn't find VW's specification in the Bentley manual), and that there should be at least two shims. More can be added, or the existing ones changed, to adjust the clearance. Mine was right at 0.050".

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Everything was pulled back out and given a coat of assembly lube.

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The distributor drive should be installed so that the offset slot is perpendicular to the case parting line, and closer to the pulley end of the engine. The small spring should go in the recess in the top.

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Now the distributor can be installed and clamped down. If all is well, its drive dog should engage the slot in the distributor drive when the rotor is pointing to the notch in the distributor housing that indicates TDC for cylinder #1. Mine had the drive dog installed backwards, so I had to move it. It also may be necessary to loosen the clamp around the distributor and rotate its body to make sure everything is in alignment.

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dubjeep
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This thread has even helped the op out!
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HRVW
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised As a retired VW engine builder (1000+) was interested in the procedures and was holding my breath for a running result that never came.

There were a few things I would disagree with but your the one learning and will have to to live with any end result (we all did at some point).

The use of extensive sealer is a NO NO. VW never used a sealer between the case halves and neither did I for that matter...probably same with other builders.

Was puzzled about having one journal of the crank turned (rod or mains). That would be a NO NO also.

Some things done were a bit of overkill.....thats okay...part of learning.

People will have to remember that any book/manual is NOT the BIBLE but only a guideline. The factory makes mistakes and will come out with updated bulletins......VW made many changes during their early yrs.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bearing and crankshaft installation

The five main bearing dowels were installed in their holes. One case half has four holes and the other may have two holes, but one of those two is not used. Only the #2 split bearing needs a dowel on the right case half.

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The #2 bearing halves were pressed into place.

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This was followed by the cam bearings. The shouldered bearing goes in the left case half.

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All the bearings in the case were brushed with assembly lube. The lifters were also lubricated and installed in the case.

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The crankshaft was as I left it, save that I cleaned and renewed the grease on its gears, in case it had captured dirt. I set it with the #1 and #2 rods facing up, with the #1 rod at the top of its travel.

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I lifted it by the ends of those rods and set it straight down into the case. This establishes the timing of the distributor drive. There is a conflict here with the text of the Wilson book, though not with the pictures. He says that the two dots on the timing gear should 'straddle the case parting line'. That would not be the position for TDC, however, because the dots are aligned with the crank throw for the #1 cylinder. This is visible in the pictures in the book and in the Bentley manual, and in the following picture.

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Later on with the pulley installed I was able to verify that the #1 TDC mark on the pulley, the distributor position, and the position of the #1 piston match. When I adjusted the valves, both valves on that cylinder were closed as they ought to be. So I conclude the text is unclear or in error.

It takes some finesse to get all the bearing dowels to find their holes, and then to get everything seated.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HRVW wrote:

Was puzzled about having one journal of the crank turned (rod or mains). That would be a NO NO also.


It was the actually shoulder of the #1 main bearing where it fits against the case. I used the crank as-is save for polishing.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Camshaft

Since I already checked backlash on page 1, it is only necessary to lubricate the cam gear and lobes, and install it. The dot on the cam gear should go between the two dots on the crankshaft timing gear. The crank has been rotated so the dots are facing the camshaft.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sealing the case

First, the cam plug was installed, hollow end toward the inside of the case, with Curil K2 sealing it to the case.

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Next, a thin coat of Curil was painted onto the case parting line.

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The left case half was rotated in the stand to be nearly vertical, and the right half presented to it. If the left half is positioned too steeply, the crankshaft or camshaft may fall out, but if it isn't steep enough, the lifters may fall out of the right half when trying to put it on. When the two halves were together, Curil was applied under the main bearing nuts, and under any other case hardware that was open to the interior.

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All the hardware was screwed on, but not tightened. I tightened the M8 hardware on the perimeter of the case before the main bearing nuts, but the Wilson book and the Bentley manual say to do it the other way around. The two M8 nuts straddling the cam plug were tightened to 14 ft-lb (20 Nm). Then the main bearing nuts were tightened, starting from the centre, first to 15 ft-lb, then 20, and finally 25 ft-lb (35 Nm). The perimeter hardware was tightened to 14 ft-lb (20 Nm).
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil sump plate

I turned the case over to install the oil pickup screen and sump plate. It gave me trouble because some of the M6 studs were screwed too far into the case to get the nuts on them when everything was in place - it would be very well to test fit the two paper gaskets, screen, and plate before the case halves are joined, because if the short stud is the one that extends into the case to secure the oil pickup tube, it's nearly impossible to get off with the case together.

In the course of adjusting the position of the studs, I damaged the threads on one and had to replace it.

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The sump plate is removable to facilitate cleaning the pickup screen and therefore usually installed dry. I decided to use Curil here too, because it is a non-hardening sealant and doesn't mind repeated disassembly. I don't want any sump leaks.

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The following pictures show how everything fits, but are from a previous installation.

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The plate is held on with special acorn nuts over copper washers. They should be tightened in a star pattern to the very low torque of 5 ft-lb (7 Nm). I decided to use a magnetic drain plug, which I tightened to 25 ft-lb (35 Nm).

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil pump

Due to fitment problems with the pump that came with this engine, I ended up getting a new one to replace it. I gave the new pump a bath with Simple Green.

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The pump cover was encrusted with shellac from my first attempt, so I just stripped and repainted it, and lapped it smooth again.

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I checked the pump gear end clearance again, which was less than 0.004" / 0.10 mm as specified.

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I spread Curil on the case where the oil pump flange goes, and put the gasket on.

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More Curil went on the pump flange itself. I installed the pump housing into the case.

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The inside of the housing was given a coat of assembly lube, as were the gears, and they were installed. The drive gear will not seat unless its tang engages the slot in the camshaft. The top of the pump was given another coat of sealer, and the top gasket was put on, followed by more sealer. The top gasket is the one with the small holes.

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The cover was put on. The nuts were sealed with Curil and torqued to 14 ft-lb (20 Nm).

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I dry-fit the pulley and used it to make sure the crankshaft still turned freely. The last pump was a different brand, and the tang on the driven gear was too long for this camshaft. It caused the camshaft to bind when the pump cover was tightened.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flywheel installation

I prepared the flywheel by scrubbing it thoroughly with purple degreaser, including the o-ring groove, and blowing it dry with compressed air.

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The clutch surface was gone over with 320-grit sandpaper to remove clutch resin, as recommended by the Wilson book.

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The oil seal surface was also gone over lightly with 220 grit paper.

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A new o-ring was installed in the groove.

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Flywheel end play was tested by dry-fitting the flywheel with its shims, but without the oil seal installed. (This was done last year.)

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I bolted a piece of steel square stock to two of the clutch bolt holes on the flywheel, and to the top and one leg of the bench. It holds the flywheel and engine steady while torque is applied.

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This time, I torqued the gland nut to only 200 ft-lb. I happen to weigh almost exactly 150 lb, so I applied my whole body weight to a cheater bar 1 1/3 ft from the gland nut.

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Next, the flywheel locking bar was removed. I made a jig to hold a dial indicator by bolting a piece of angle iron to the flywheel and clamping the dial indicator to the angle iron.

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I pulled the flywheel all the way out from the case, touched the tip of the indicator to the case, and zeroed the dial. Pushing the flywheel back in gave a reading of the end play.

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I was out of spec. the first time, so I had to take the flywheel off, change shims, and try again. The final reading was 0.004". It needs to be between 0.003" and 0.005" (0.07 - 0.13 mm).

In preparation for final installation of the flywheel, I installed the shims with assembly lube.

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I put a coat of Curil on the outside edge of the oil seal, and tapped it into the case until it was flush with the outside edge.

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I used a new gland nut this time. I installed it with red Loctite, and torqued it, using the same method as before, to 300 ft-lb (I supported myself two feet out on the cheater bar).

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clutch

I decided to re-use the old clutch from this engine. The Wilson book says it's reusable if there is more than 7 mm of thickness remaining - and there is plenty more than that.

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I wiped both sides of the clutch disc, the pressure plate, and the clutch surface of the flywheel with U-pol degreaser.

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I have a cut-off transmission input shaft to use as a clutch alignment tool. It holds the clutch centred on the pilot bearing while the pressure plate is bolted on.

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The pressure plate was bolted on by gradually tightening all the bolts in a star pattern. Final torque was 18 ft-lb (25 Nm)

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crankshaft pulley

The pulley tin was screwed to the case now, because its fasteners are inaccessible once the pulley is put on.

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The pulley was tapped onto the crankshaft snout with a soft hammer. Red Loctite was applied to the bolt, and it was torqued to 32 ft-lb (44 Nm).

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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only bit of info I could add would be that the engine thinks 1&3 are separate in balance from 2&4. So when you are balancing the rod/piston set 1&3 should be equal in weight and 2&4 should be equal but 1&3 do not have to be equal in weight to 2&4.
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74 Westy
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Last edited by 1975 Kombi on Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:22 am; edited 1 time in total
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75smith
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1975 Kombi wrote:
The only bit of info I could add would be that the engine thinks 1&2 are separate in balance from 3&4. So when you are balancing the rod/piston set 1&2 should be equal in weight and 3&4 should be equal but 1&2 do not have to be equal in weight to 3&4.


I don't think so, maybe 1=3 and 2=4 but definitely not 1=2 and 3=4

think about it like this- you left arm is 1 your right arm is 3, you pick up a bucket with 5 lbs of water on your left arm and a bucket with 8 lbs on your right, you start lifting them to shoulder height with your arms outstretched your right arm will actually get more tired, and it will be the same on the crank, if #3 piston and rod is heavier that 1, that crank throw will see a lot more stress, and because of the excess inertia to one side you will see more vibration
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep sorry I was multi tasking at the time I will correct that. 1-3 and 2-4.
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Brett

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75 Westy auto
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71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
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johnnypan
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1975 Kombi wrote:
The only bit of info I could add would be that the engine thinks 1&3 are separate in balance from 2&4. So when you are balancing the rod/piston set 1&3 should be equal in weight and 2&4 should be equal but 1&3 do not have to be equal in weight to 2&4.


Balance all rods to the lightest rod,all pistons to the lightest piston..

Maboyce,nice work,always work food grade clean..go easy on the blue sealant...its not necessary around the head studs and potentially damaging on the oil relief valves..other than that,and some questionable machining, your doing a nice job.
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1975 Kombi
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 14, 2012 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my shop guy he says that the 1-3 are separate from 2-4 at least to the crank relative to weight. If they were not horizontally opposed I would agree with you but in this engine they only need to be balanced with the opposite side. I guess if you wanted to take it a step further the large ends should all be within a gram of each other and the overall weight rod+piston+wrist pin should equal thier direct opposite side of the crank. 1-3 2-4. I have found a big difference in the in relation to the large end weigh and the overall weight. Just because the overall weight may be eqaul the large end weights may be way off.
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Brett

“He’s decieving you boy! Reach into his pocket and take what he’s got.” Mr. Crabbs.

75 Westy auto
03 Jetta TDI
71 SB
74 Westy
Licensed pilot (single engine land VFR)
--
Rust In Pieces: 72 Bug, 73 Bug, 81 Rabbit LS D 2D, 83 Rabbit D 2D, 84 Jetta TD GL, 85 Jetta D, 68 Z28 RS 302, 91 Passat 16v
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piston deck height adjustment

The next step would have been piston and cylinder installation, but it was first necessary to determine which barrel shims to use to achieve the proper deck height - the distance between the piston surface and the edge of the cylinder when the piston is at the extent of its travel.

The deck height on this engine had to be considerably larger than stock, because I elected to use performance modified new heads that the seller of my pistons threw in with them. They are Brazilian VW 040 heads with the cylinder seating area flycut deeper for higher compression.

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They also came with heavy-duty valve springs, which I had to change out for standard ones.

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There is an online calculator at http://www.cbperformance.com/enginecalc.html which can determine deck height from the volume of the combustion chamber, bore size, stroke length, and desired compression ratio. To use it, I had to measure the volume of the combustion chamber. This is done by installing a spark plug, levelling the head, and filling the combustion chamber with a measured amount of transmission fluid or other oil using a graduated syringe.

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I started with a syringe filled to exactly 60 ml, then noted what the reading was when the combustion chamber was full, and subtracted. In the picture, the plunger is at 20 ml, meaning 40 ml of oil was added to the head. I added a little more after taking the picture - my notes give the final measurement as 45 ml.

Millilitres and cubic centimetres are equivalent.

Putting 45 cm3, a standard bore size of 85.5 mm, a standard stroke of 69 mm, and a standard (according to the Bentley manual) compression ratio of 7.5:1 into the calculator yields 2.78 mm (0.109") of deck height required.

There are indications on the Samba that such a large deck height (1 - 2 mm is stock)(0.040 - 0.080") may cause detonation or make the ignition impossible to time properly (I asked about it here: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=453349) After doing the reading on the issue, I decided to go ahead as planned and see how the engine behaves. Because I'm using all stock parts, I run into fitment problems if the engine is too narrow - a result of cylinders that sit more deeply in the heads than stock.

That said, to find out what size shims were necessary, I had to first measure the deck height without shims. I put one one piston and cylinder assembly together and installed it, tightening it down (but not very much) with two of the head bolts. I had to stack some sockets and extra nuts under the head nuts to simulate the thickness of the head.

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With the piston at TDC, I put a straightedge across the cylinder edges and measured the distance from the straightedge to the face of the piston with a feeler gauge. The distance was 1.35 mm (0.053"). This would be an acceptable deck height for uncut stock heads. To reach 2.78 mm requires a shim to make up the difference: 2.78 mm - 1.35 mm = 1.43 mm (0.056"). The closest available shim is 0.060" - which is what I bought.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Piston & Cylinder installation

I used a new set of Mahle stock size pistons and cylinders. They were washed with Simple Green and water and blown dry with compressed air before use. The first time I put the engine together I used silicone sealant on the cylinder bases, so when I took it apart I got to scrape all the silicone off of the cylinders, remove the residue with U-pol (which is effective against silicone as well as grease), and wash the cylinders again.

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Before starting assembly, I removed one compression ring and put it in the end of a cylinder to verify its end gap with a feeler gauge. It should be between 0.30-0.45 mm (0.012" - 0.018"). This one was 0.38 mm (0.015")

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After putting the ring back, I arranged its gap and those of the other rings for maximal spacing between them, with none of the oil ring gaps toward the bottom of the engine. Unfortunately the gaps don't photograph very well.

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(Last year)

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I determined ahead of time which cylinder I was making up, and made sure to install the piston so that, when on the engine, the arrow stamped into the face would be pointing toward the flywheel. I coated the piston and cylinder with oil and used a band-type ring compressor to put the piston into its bore as far as the piston pin holes. Using the ring compressor is a fumbly job.

The arrow on the piston:

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This time I chose to use Curil T on the cylinder bases, so they can be removed and installed again if necessary. I applied it between the cylinder and the barrel shim, between the shim and the paper gasket, and between the gasket and the case.

(Sealant not yet applied in this posed photograph.)

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One piston pin circlip was installed in the piston. Forethought is required here, so that the preinstalled clip is one that will be hard to get at when the cylinder is brought to the engine.

The engine was turned to extend the rod where the piston was to go. The piston was presented to the rod, and the oiled piston pin slipped through both. The second circlip was installed with pliers.

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Now the cylinder could be slid down to mate with the case.

Installed pistons and cylinders showing the arrows.

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Next, the cylinder air baffles were installed. They can't fit past the pushrod tubes, so they have to go on now.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 21, 2012 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pushrod tubes & cylinder heads

I washed out the new pushrod tubes with Simple Green and water, and blew them dry.

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Since they had been installed and removed once already, they had to be stretched back out to the specified 190 - 191 mm (7 17/32" - 7 9/16") to ensure a good compression seal.

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I applied Curil T between the seals and the tubes for good measure. The seals can and usually are installed totally dry. Last year I tried using silicone between the seals and the case and heads, and it actually lubricated the seals so that they squeezed out of their seats into the path of the pushrods. So no sealant was used this time between the seals and the case and heads.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is what happens when using silicone here:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


With the pushrods ready, the heads were presented to the case and loosely fastened. If they are kept in just the right place, there is enough play to put the pushrod tubes in position and get each one to stay in place long enough to install them all. The seams should be up, in case they ever split - I missed one in the photo below.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Both heads were loosely fitted in this way, and then both torqued initially to 10 Nm (7 ft-lb) according to the following pattern. (Looking straight on from the side of the engine.)

7 5 6 8
4 2 1 3

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A proper picture of the torquing pattern is in the Bentley manual and in the Wilson book. This case has 8 mm studs and case savers, so the final torque was 24.5 Nm (18 ft-lb), applied in the following DIFFERENT pattern.

8 2 4 6
5 3 1 7

The heads were re-torqued after being allowed to settle for several minutes.
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