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Stock 1600 DP rebuild, step by step
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pushrods and rocker arms

A little bit of assembly lube was spread on each end of the pushrods, and they were inserted into their tubes. The conical shape of the lifters ensures they are easily seated.

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The pushrods were re-used from the engine's previous life.

After cleaning, the rocker arms were reassembled with a light coat of motor oil.

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The rocker arm studs received new o-rings from the gasket set. During this writeup I had to take one of the rocker arms back off to make sure I had done that. It's hard to tell from the pictures.

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The valve adjusting screws were loosened completely, and the rocker arms put in place with the stands oriented with the bevels facing out and the slots facing up. The two rocker arm bolts were torqued to 24.5 Nm (18 ft-lb).

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valve adjustment

Valves must be adjusted when they are closed. Both of a cylinder's valves are closed at top dead centre on the compression stroke. In order to adjust all the valves, the engine must be turned through a complete firing cycle. I began with cylinder #1, which is at TDC when the mark on the pulley is aligned with the case parting line and its two pushrods are not extended.

For each valve, a 0.15 mm (0.006") feeler gauge was inserted between the adjusting screw and the valve stem, and the adjusting screw tightened with a screwdriver until the feeler gauge could just be with drawn with some resistance. Then the jam nut was tightened. It was necessary to hold the adjusting screw while tightening, and to check the adjustment afterwards in case the screw had moved.

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The pulley was rotated 180 degrees, so that the timing mark was on the bottom, and #4 cylinder's valves were adjusted. After another 180 degree rotation, #3 was done, and after one last 180 degree rotation, #2. The cylinders are numbered as follows:

Flywheel
3 1
4 2
Pulley
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuel pump and alternator stand

The fuel pump (alternator style with shorter operating rod) was installed with Curil K2 on both sides of the two gaskets. The gasket with the large opening went underneath the plastic pedestal. Before installation the lower part of the pump was packed with all-purpose grease.

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Care was taken not to overtighten the nuts.

The alternator pedestals gaskets were similarly coated with Curil before installation. Note the orientation of the louvres in the metal plate.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spark plugs and oil pressure sender

The oil pressure sender was screwed in by hand with Curil K2 on its threads. It was given less than half a turn more with an adjustable wrench - the magnesium threads in the case can't take much torque.

(Last year)

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The spark plugs were gapped to 0.6 mm (0.024", as per the package) and installed into the heads with anti-seize lubricant on their threads. They were torqued to 34 Nm (25 ft-lb)

(Last year)

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil cooler

The oil cooler and its stand were joined, using grommets from the gasket kit (the same 10 mm / 10 mm ones used between the stand and the case).

The oil cooler is a new Chinese unit.

(Last year)

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There is a small piece of tinware that bolts to the front of the oil cooler (the 'Hoover bit').

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The oil cooler and stand were bolted to the case with a torque of only 7 Nm (5 ft-lb). I used the same torque to fasten the stand to the cooler, because I couldn't find a specification.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valve cover gaskets

The old gaskets were cracked, so I scraped them off along with a large quantity of old silicone using a plastic scraper. I cleaned off the last of the debris with a wire wheel in a die grinder.

The gasket area on the covers was painted with new silicone, and the gaskets put in place. The valve covers were immediately installed to hold everything in place.

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exhaust system and tinware

Last year at this point I noticed a broken-off tin screw on one of the cylinder heads. I had to use the mig-welded nut trick to remove it, and then clean up the hole with a tap.

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The intake manifold gaskets were also installed prior to putting on the cylinder head covers.

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All tin was installed loosely for the purpose of alignment. The cylinder covers went on first, followed by the two small tins that screw to their rear edges. The one with the cutout goes on the right. The large lower tin 'sleds' went on next - they have to be installed before the heat exchangers. The rear half of the right sled must be left off in order to install the thermostat.

The large intake manifold castings can also be bolted on loosely.

This point last year:

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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exhaust system and tinware, continued

Next, the heat exchangers were loosely bolted on with new gaskets.

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The centre section of the intake manifold was also installed. Make sure to have the rubber boots and four band clamps slipped over the ends before installation. With fiddling, it can be slipped into the end of one dual-port casting and then the other, if they are left loose enough.

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It is well at this point to dry-fit the muffler to the engine to check fitment. I used a non-VW stock style muffler with very badly welded flanges, particularly the hear riser flanges. After attempts to bend things into place with a torch, I decided to cut both flanges off the right side of the muffler and weld them up to fit.

This photo from last year shows how badly the heat riser flanges fit together.

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The loose flanges were bolted into position, and the muffler put into place and tack welded.

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I did the exhaust flange first. If I could do it over, I would do the heat riser first because access with the MIG torch is easier if the larger exhaust flange is not in place.

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I had to cut a different piece of tubing to link the heat riser flange to the exhaust tube.

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With the muffler repainted after welding, installation could proceed. The steel rings and sealing rings went on the heat exchangers, as did the band clamps for the small fresh air boxes. Depending on the fit, it may be easier to put them on the fresh air boxes on the muffler instead.

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Exhaust gaskets were put in place.

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The muffler was then given its final fitting to the engine. A lot of fiddling and grunting and some work with a rubber hammer was still necessary to get it on. The heat riser flange gaskets were slipped in and the flanges screwed together. A tapered awl was thrust through the holes to align them temporarily while this was done.

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The 'stovepipe' for the preheat tube was slipped under the right side of the engine and on to the lower exhaust port flange (between the muffler flange and the exhaust nut). The last exhaust nut was put on, and all the exhaust hardware was tightened down except for the fresh air box clamps. The position of the fresh air box tubes depends on the holes in the rear tin.

The intake manifold hardware was also tightened, including the nut securing the centre section to the case. The Wilson book give the torque for the nuts on the cast ends as 20 Nm (14 ft-lb), but they are nearly all inaccessible to my torque wrench. I had to torque one and do the others by feel with an open-end wrench.
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Glenn Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maboyce wrote:
Valve cover gaskets

The gasket area on the covers was painted with new silicone, and the gaskets put in place.
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It's a bad idea to use RTV silicon where it can get loose inside the engine. I use Permatex Aviation to hold the gaskets in place.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fan shroud and alternator

I test fit all the flaps and linkages into the fan shroud. The tall sides of the flap units should go toward the outside edges of the fan shroud. The thermostat operating rod has to be installed now due to lack of access when the fan shroud is installed. Conversely the connecting bar across the front of the shroud must be removed for installation because it doesn't clear the oil cooler.

The spring is a non-VW replacement.

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The alternator fan is the correct 34 mm version. Smaller fans can't supply both the cylinders and the doghouse oil cooler with air. (This engine had a smaller fan when I got it, perhaps leading to its early demise.)

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The fan plate was screwed onto the fan shroud.

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The fan shroud was then brought to the engine and seated in place. The thermostat operating rod has to be fished through a small hole among the cooling fins on the cylinder head. It helps in choosing the right one to dry-fit the thermostat and its bracket and sight down through the engine.

With the shroud installed, the connecting rod for the flaps could be put on.

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The shroud is held in place by the alternator...

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...and two hex bolts on either side of the base.

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Last edited by maboyce on Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front tin

This was a simple matter of putting it on and screwing it down. The oil cooler exhaust tube needs to go through the front tin before it is put in place. (It and the angled piece above it should be held with bolts, for access when the engine is installed.)

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Also note the (should be) bolt holding the fan shroud opening to the 'hoover bit' on the oil cooler.


Last edited by maboyce on Tue Oct 23, 2012 2:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thermostat

The thermostat was adjusted as follows. It was screwed on to the operating rod without its bracket.

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In this position the flaps are being held open by the spring. The bracket is then bolted in place so that its top is touching the top of the thermostat.

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Finally the thermostat was pulled down (closing the flaps) and bolted to the bracket.

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The rear part of the tin could then be installed.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

#2 intake pushrod tube dose not have the seam pointed up.

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The fasteners on the ends of the fan shroud should be M6 hex bolts. And the fasteners that old the 2 pieces of tin for the oil cooler exhaust should be hex.

They did it that way so you can remove the shroud with the engine in. With screws there's no way to get a screwdriver in there.
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ignition system

The coil was put into its bracket and screwed to the fan shroud.

I used Bosch spark plug wires that require the small threaded ends on the spark plugs, so the caps had to be unscrewed from the spark plugs.

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The wires were installed so that the boot fit tightly over the opening in the cylinder tin.

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The other ends went to the distributor cap, via the clips on the fan shroud.

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The wires were connected in firing order, going clockwise, 1 - 4 - 3 - 2, with 1 toward the flywheel on the right.

The short wire goes between the centre plug of the distributor and the coil.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Coming along real nicely. Good work. I've bookmarked this thread so I can use it as a reference in case I need to rebuild mine.

Nice work. Wink
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maboyce
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alternator belt

Tension on the belt is determined by the number of shims between the alternator pulley halves. I had to reinstall the belt several times before arriving at the correct deflection of 15 mm (5/8").

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(Awkward one-handed photograph; belt deflection should be measured in the middle of the span.)

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The pulley bolt was tightened using a large wrench and a screwdriver through the slot on the back of the pulley.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you test your thermostat before installation?
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It should be collapsed like this.
Yours looks like it is fully expanded at room temp.
(Borrowed from Glenn's gallery)
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks to Glenn for pointing out the valve covers. I was going to protest that there wasn't any squeeze-out to break loose, but when I looked, there was.

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As for the thermostat, I think the angle makes it look popped. After installation I pointed a heat gun at it to watch it work, and it did. I have another good thermostat, and they're the same size.

It's off the engine now, though, because of that pushrod tube...

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is great post thank you.
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 28, 2012 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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